tylerrice Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Hi all, I have just recently left my car for about two weeks and then got in it and drove it all the way for Sydney to Adelaide. I took it to my mechanic and he had a look and replaced a few things. While he was looking around he has noticed that the fist cylinder when he pulls the spark lead out while the engine is running wont even effect the engines running, like if you pull the 2nd, 3rd or 4th one out the engine slows a bit or struggles a bit... if you know what i mean. (the cylinder with the problem is the one closest to the back of the engine (closest to driver)) its a 4K-c in a 1981 KE55. The whole engine is standard no modifications at all. Also am looking at a 5/4 speed to get put in so any info or parts needed would be great thanks... After getting a 5/4 speed put in i would like to look at the next step in modifying it for better performance, where would you guys recommend to start? maybe something that can get done the same time the gearbox and what not is getting switched... Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 (edited) If removing the #4 plug makes not difference then its running on 3 cylinders..... which you should really be able to tell to start with! Does it sound sort of like a WRX when you rev it? A dropped cylinder can be caused by a few things: No fuel - But this is very unlikely for a 4kc given all other cylinders have fuel. Lack of compression - Either a stuck valve or dodgy rings can cause this. Doing a compression test will quickly confirm or deny it. No spark - This is the most likely cause. Could be a dead spark plug, faulty plug lead, or maybe even the dizzy cap. Try swapping a plug and lead from another cylinder and see if the dead cylinder is still #4 or the one that you swapped the suspected faulty plug/lead onto. Its probably not a bad idea to just re-build your whole ignition! I know that might sound intesive and expensive but its not really. If you head down to supercheap auto you should be able to get: New NGK plug Bosch supersport plug lead set New point and condenser New rotor cap and buttom .....for for under $50!!!! I don't mind buying that sort of stuff from SCA as its all branded. Replace all of that, re-set your plug gaps, points and timing and if you're still only running on 3 then I start looking at the stuck valve scenario. Edited July 22, 2010 by Taz_Rx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tylerrice Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 If removing the #4 plug makes not difference then its running on 3 cylinders..... which you should really be able to tell to start with! Does it sound sort of like a WRX when you rev it? A dropped cylinder can be caused by a few things: No fuel - But this is very unlikely for a 4kc given all other cylinders have fuel. Lack of compression - Either a stuck valve or dodgy rings can cause this. Doing a compression test will quickly confirm or deny it. No spark - This is the most likely cause. Could be a dead spark plug, faulty plug lead, or maybe even the dizzy cap. Try swapping a plug and lead from another cylinder and see if the dead cylinder is still #4 or the one that you swapped the suspected faulty plug/lead onto. Its probably not a bad idea to just re-build your whole ignition! I know that might sound intesive and expensive but its not really. If you head down to supercheap auto you should be able to get: New NGK plug Bosch supersport plug lead set New point and condenser New rotor cap and buttom .....for for under $50!!!! I don't mind buying that sort of stuff from SCA as its all branded. Replace all of that, re-set your plug gaps, points and timing and if you're still only running on 3 then I start looking at the stuck valve scenario. It has just had all the ignition done before the drive back and all the same parts you described for supercheap (apart from the leads that i have had for about 4months which are topgear performance leads, spiral wire and lower resistance or something) Tried changing the leads around and what not but still nothing and when you put the lead close to the spark plug while the car is running it clicks away... so maybe compression problem, is that a normal thing for mechanics to check? because he seems fairly confused to what is going on... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Pull the first plug out and see if you have spark in the chamber. You might have a dodgey sparkplug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tylerrice Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Pull the first plug out and see if you have spark in the chamber. You might have a dodgey sparkplug. The spark plug has been taken out and a different one tried with no change, I think i might have herd the mechanic say it sometimes cuts in and out which is what has got him confused... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Just ask him to do a compression test on all four cylinders then. He should have done one as a process of elimination anyway. It only takes like 5 minute to test all 4 on a K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 How about at high rpm or when you give the throttle a tap?. I Know of a K engine that only runs on 2cyl down low and 4 up high due to a leaky manifold gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parrot Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Sorry, but I have to say it. If your mechanic can't work this out with the car in front of him, he isn't much of a mechanic. It's all pretty basic stuff on a simple engine. If he can't do anything without a diagnostic port, time to go elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tylerrice Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 yeah but hes been good, like i get over a year to pay back any services and parts... the only thing is he had it for half a day fixed a few things like the barrels on back wheels and the little white thing right next to the ignition coil so i didn't have to bypass it then he noticed and i needed the car... so hes getting it back next week but i would like more info on it as he was fair confused. maybe the 2cly thing? but it seems when you pull the other 3 spark leads out the engine slows a bit/struggles... will get a compression test next week on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 (edited) Check the tappets yourself over the weekend. If a valve has burned into the seat it will have no tappet gap and the valve will be held open, so there will be a loss of compression on that cylinder. If you are lucky you can adjust them to the correct gap and solve the problem completely. Easy to do, and if you haven't done it Tyler, its time to learn! If they are all OK, then do a compression test before you spend money on anything else. That's a sick little engine you have there, a genuine three cylinder! Edited July 22, 2010 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tylerrice Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Check the tappets yourself over the weekend. If a valve has burned into the seat it will have no tappet gap and the valve will be held open, so there will be a loss of compression on that cylinder. If you are lucky you can adjust them to the correct gap and solve the problem completely. Easy to do, and if you haven't done it Tyler, its time to learn! If they are all OK, then do a compression test before you spend money on anything else. That's a sick little engine you have there, a genuine three cylinder! haha ok that sounds all well and good to do... but what is involved in doing this? maybe some more info on it :) thanks for all the info and help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Half an hour on Google will give you the 'how-to' with lots of pictures on various cars. You will need a 14mm, 12mm spanners (preferably ring/open style if you're going to buy them) a flatblade screwdriver and a set of feeler gauges. These are feeler gauges, (Thickness gauges) get them from Repco or Supercheap etc http://www.beamar.com/Precision_Tools_Gage...th%20texas.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tylerrice Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 (edited) Half an hour on Google will give you the 'how-to' with lots of pictures on various cars. You will need a 14mm, 12mm spanners (preferably ring/open style if you're going to buy them) a flatblade screwdriver and a set of feeler gauges. These are feeler gauges, (Thickness gauges) get them from Repco or Supercheap etc http://www.beamar.com/Precision_Tools_Gage...th%20texas.html haha looks around and thinks he will ask the mechanic to check them -.- ima fuk it up knowing me.... but thanks :) Edited July 22, 2010 by tylerrice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 (edited) lol! you'll have to start sometime, you won't be able to afford to pay a mech to look after an old car! ..and they are very simple to work on. Here, this is a cutaway courtesy of Wiki, and I assume it came from the Toyota Museum. You can see that the tappet cover on top of the motor has been cut away, but if you unbolted yours and lifted it off you would see the rocker shaft and all the rockers on it. The feeler gauges measure the gap between the valve top by its valve spring, and the rocker that pushes it down. The adjustment is made by undoing the locknut and srewing the screw up or down a fraction. I'll bet yours all need adjusting. If you don't try it yourself, have the mech check them after a compression test and before he does anything else. Edited July 22, 2010 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 Buy a workshop manual. Plus google. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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