http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/47165-new-electroinic-distributors-2k-3k-4k-5k/page__pid__511125#entry511125

I can't seem to find these distributors or the seller on ebay any more, anyone know of another source?

 

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/47165-new-electroinic-distributors-2k-3k-4k-5k/page__pid__511125#entry511125

 

EDIT: I'm to slow, well played Abbott

 

:)

Edited May 29, 201115 yr by -=KE30=-

Hi Jackbyo, Great job and very informative, but I'd like to add 2 points of interest, 1. The easiest way to find top dead centre #1 cyl is to remove tappett cover , check no#4 tappetts, turn engine till tappetts are rocking, timing mark on pulley should be lining up with 0. engine is now firing #1

 

#2 point . Set timing marks on pulley to desired advance e.g. 10deg. reomove coild lead from distributor with ignition on move dist. till spark from coil lead to engine block. tighten dist. & by moving rotor should still spark to block. engine is now firing on desired advance. Cheers, Lou

Hi Jackbyo, great job and very informative but if I may I'd like to add a couple of pointers. #1. the easiest way to find top dead centre (TDC) #1 is to remove the tappett cover, turn the engine till the tappetts are rocking on #4, the timing mark on the pulley should be lined up with the 0 is now firing on #1

 

#2. On the front pulley line up with the 0 the desired advance e.g. 10 deg. Turn ignition on with dist loose remove coil lead from dist cap & by just moving dist either way coil lead should spark to block. Tighten dist and rock rotor either way & it should spark to block. Motor is now firing at the desired advance. This is a reasonably accurate way if you don't have a timing light. Cheers Lou

4k dizzy fit onto the electronic unit?

 

No, completely different I'm afraid Twinky.

 

xu500 I don't know of other sellers, but I'm sure they are available in Malaysia or the Philipines.

Though most newer engines use electronically activated coil-on-plug ignitions, practically every car made before 1995 utilizes some sort of mechanical distributor. Newer electronic systems offer a more stable spark, increased durability, higher RPM and the possibility of more advanced digital controls for top-end applications.

#1Remove the plastic distributor cap from the distributor body by releasing the retaining clips around the base of its perimeter.

# 2Remove the rotor (the part in the middle that spins). Some have a retaining screw, while others simply pull off.

# 3Remove the points and condenser. The condenser is the small cylindrical object attached beneath the rotor. Follow the wire from the condenser to find the points assembly.

# 4Pull out the nut from the points assembly to separate it from the primary ignition lead.

# 5Follow the wire lead to the ignition coil and disconnect it.

# 6Push the wire lead up from the coil through the body of the distributor, and remove it.

# 7Feed the two wire leads from your new ignition module up through the hole in the distributor from the inside.

# 8Slip the supplied protective rubber grommet over the wires from the outside, and secure it into the distributor body. You may have to grease the outside of the grommet to slip it through the hole.

# 9Attach the supplied eyelet connectors to the outside end of the wires with a set of wire crimps.

# 10Attach the new ignition module where the condenser used to be with the supplied screws.

# 11Connect the black ground wire in the most convenient location on the inside of the distributor body.

# 12Connect the lead wire from the distributor to the ignition coil where you removed the old one.

# 13Install the round black magnetic shutter wheel at the base of the rotor shaft. There should be .030 clearance between it and the ignition module.

# 14Reinstall the rotor. This is a good time to replace both it and the distributor cap as cheap insurance against future problems.

# 15Now reinstall distributor cap. If you did not remove the plug wires, the engine should fire up without a problem.

 

boston used BMW dealer

I recently wired up a 4K electronic distributor and external ignitor. Anyone doing this conversion make sure you don't mount your ignitor too close to your coil as it messes with your tachometer and gives it an incorrect reading. I'm guessing the magnetic field from the ignitor or something effects the current(or voltage?) in the wire that connects the coil to the tachometer. I really couldn't figure it out, I just know that mounting it too close stuffs it up, which was a huge pain in the butt when I had to rewire it all to move the ignitor away.

Edited July 20, 201115 yr by rianwest

I am just curious what is the second outlet for on an electronic dizzy?

^ Also keen to know, I just used a 'T' piece to split the vacuum line to both ports. In the pics there are two vacuum lines to the electronic distributor, the stock setup only has one vacuum line, where do I run the second vacuum line from, and which port should it correspond to on the vacuum advance?

Edited July 20, 201115 yr by rianwest

don't worry about the second port. You can use either one. Block it off it it puts your mind at ease.

the 2 wires coming out of my dist are brown and black , how would they wire up ?

hey fellas

 

I'm up to wiring it all up.

 

i played around with it and I'm getting no spark.

 

would pin 3 be a + or - signal from the dissy?

 

its not the coil cause as soon as i earth out pin 15 it sparks?

 

hints on what I'm doing wrong?

Did you remember to earth the ignitor?

yep tried that from the hole near pin 16.

 

ive tried 3 other igniters and still no spark

 

i connect the dissy straight to the new coil and get a whopper 4cm spark.

i connect the dissy straight to the new coil and get a whopper 4cm spark.

 

lol! You're gonna jump when it hits you! All your hair will stand up and ...... :laff: