rowantsarolla Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 Hi guys and girls, tell me what to try as far as getting my rolla through this tough time before more damage is caused! Car: 78 KE55, 4k motor, original as far as the engine bay goes, standard radiator. Problem: Basically i noticed that the radiator had lost water (3-4) very fast, with water/ coolant filling the overflow bottle and even popping the lid on it (the overflow) with pressure built up. Once i had found that the the temp sensor wire was not plugged in to the sensor i plugged it in, flushed the radiator, refilled it and ran the motor with the radiator cap off. I then watched air bubbles as they came gurgling through the radiator and also noticed a constant drop/ refill in the radiator levels (to just below the cap and then back to full/ light overflow, even when topping up the level with the hose on low pressure). I can't see any leaks in the radiator or hoses. I also noticed that the temp gauge reached MAX within 30s - 1 minute of Idling, without the motor being warm on start-up. What made me first check the radiator was the slight smell of burnt oil coming out of the rocker cover hose thing (has no hose, just vents into the bay and fumes came up the shifter hole into the cab). I have swapped the thermostat, but that didnt seem to fix anything - top hose is always considerably hotter than the bottom radiator hose, and both hoses seem fairly new and in very good condition, with good clamps. I would rather not drive it even to a mechanic while this is going on, so i would love some suggestions about what i could try. The car still goes hard and makes much more power than my previous 2 4K KE55s, so i don't think iv blown the head gasket- but i am no mechanic, i just tinker and try and work things out as part of the appeal of having and older car. Any help, knowledge or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks Ro Woo first post done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 sounds like headgasket to me, my 5k had a blown headgasket and was pressurising the coolant system BAD but still went like stink! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowantsarolla Posted April 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 Damn, no way! It does make sense though. The local wreckers had a reconditioned head which i could buy. How hard is it to change the head? Or should i leave it to the pro's? Woah, just remembered, when i bought the car it was running rough, so i got a tune and the mech said the timing was out 50degrees.... it was a dodgy buy. Ebay :( but it has racing seats and an exhaust and sunroof ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 A head gasket isnt the end of all things, it a pretty easy job but if you are not sure and don't have a torque wrench its prob best to get someone else to do it. Ring around, if you have a good mechanic or mechanic friend have a chat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW42 Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 have a look at the welsh plugs on the side of the block! I had a 5k and it leaked water ever so slowly out there, Take the oil cap off and inspect for chocloate milk under there, usually one of the 1st signs of a fooked HG, either that or oil in the radiator..... HG's are pretty easy to change, all you really need is the appropriate sockets/ratchet and a torque wrench, and while your there i'd adjust the tappets too for good measure!!! Other than that have a look on all the conections in the cooling system, OH also check your heater box too, is the carpet around/under the heater box wet????? If so thats more than likely where your leak is, also probably a good idea to throw a temp sender in it aswell so you have an accurate-ish reading on the engine temp Thats just my list of things to check when you get a chance to check it next :yes: , good luck i hope one of these ideas helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 With the symptoms he is describing it is a blown head gasket. you don't have to have any oil in the coolant for it to be certain. When he says that the overflow bottle gets pressureised then that tells me it is a blown head gasket. I had the same problem. It isn't a full blow out but just a tiny ass gap between the cylinder and water passage. This is why you get the overflow bottle to burst because the combustion pressure is pressurising the cooling system which opens the overflow cap, which pressurises the overflow bottle and bursts out of the overflow cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono1986 Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 Damn, no way! It does make sense though. The local wreckers had a reconditioned head which i could buy. How hard is it to change the head? Or should i leave it to the pro's? Woah, just remembered, when i bought the car it was running rough, so i got a tune and the mech said the timing was out 50degrees.... it was a dodgy buy. Ebay :( but it has racing seats and an exhaust and sunroof ! Head gasket goes between the head and the block, so no need to get a recond. head. Just take the head off and have a look, will take less than half an hour. Putting it back on with a new gasket will take a bit longer though as you'll need to torque the bolts up and do the tappets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HayzTawil Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 I will be doing the head on my 3k soon 1st time I have a go as I'm no mechanic myself, car turns on but very loud and rough but b4 wad running pretty good anyways goodluck man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thcraig87 Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Mate definitely sounds like the head gasket. I have never claimed to be experiences with working with engines, but I changed a head gasket on my old 4K and in a ford laser no worries at all. Just have the owners manual, the right tools, take your time and you should be right. Just make sure you get the head machined so you know it is flat when you pull it back down. While you're at the head works shop you will also have options to freshen up things if you choose to, its up to you and you're wallet as to what you get done. In the end my 4K gasket blew on me again and instead of getting a new/reconditioned head for it I just upgraded to a 5K engine package (only cost $100 more) and was very happy with the outcome. If you have a 4K that goes pretty well though, it might be worth holding onto. Hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowantsarolla Posted April 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Woah thanks for the replies, i just bought Gregory's manual from ebay, so i might have a go myself! I appreciate the help. Meanwhile, i have pulled out the front springs (chopped to the max!) and i found that my old Pulsar king springs were 5mm less in diameter to the standard Rolla springs so i threw them in. They seem to sit well in the spring housings but not "snug". is 5mm too big a difference? I am worried about the springs having space to move, is this going to be a problem or will i be better off with sketchy chopped standard springs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke70-Pig Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Woah thanks for the replies, i just bought Gregory's manual from ebay, so i might have a go myself! I appreciate the help. Meanwhile, i have pulled out the front springs (chopped to the max!) and i found that my old Pulsar king springs were 5mm less in diameter to the standard Rolla springs so i threw them in. They seem to sit well in the spring housings but not "snug". is 5mm too big a difference? I am worried about the springs having space to move, is this going to be a problem or will i be better off with sketchy chopped standard springs? Before you go wasting time and money if it isn't head gasket, probably is though. Buy a $10 bottle of "seal-up" from Autobarn shake and pour, into the radiator and let it do it's shit. It chem welds a metal over small holes. I had the same on my 4kc in the ke70 and used seal up, fair enough not a "proper" job but freaking cheap in comparison. Within 5 minutes of putting seal up in the radiator already made a difference. Haven't needed to touch the radiator since, about 2 weeks so far. Temperature sits constantly on 1/3 unless out bush giving it stink. then it may go up a needle width. Just another suggestion mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 I'm not a fan of that seal up crap, but agreed it can be a quick easy fix to get you going for a bit. rowantsarolla , when you remove the headgasket please make sure you take the head down to a machinist and get it checked out/faced/machined whatever. no point putting a head back on that is stuffed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ady Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 Hey mate, definitely don't put that shit in your radiator, you'll end up with a blocked radiator if you get a leak again and when it hardens up inside a radiator it's basically a throw away instantly. Just do the head gasket it's not that hard use the Gregory's manual and borrow a torque wrench off someone if you don't have one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowantsarolla Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Thanks for the reply's i had a crack and got the head off and got it machined (also got the bloke to skim extra off) and bought a VRS kit and will put it back together tomorrow. Was DEFINITELY a blown head gasket, but I'm not too bummed because iv learned (and saved) a lot by doing it myself! Luckily my bestie down the road has a torque wrench! If you are ever in this situation i'd recommend doing what i did and what others suggested: - Get someone to confirm that you've blown the gasket (it is easy to test for) - Grab a gregory's manual off ebay ($16 + postage) - Follow the steps, take ya time! I didnt even disconnect the carby (apart from the metal fuel line), or fully remove the manifolds from the car. - Take the head to a machinist/ engine builder (I left the valve springs etc still in the head) and ask him to machine the underside of the head flat/ straight - Clean the face of the block, make sure it is level and good (crap builds up around the bores). - Buy a decent VRS kit or even just a good new head gasket and put it all back together. I'll be getting a mechanic to check/ reset the valve clearances for me and suss it out. Is there anything else i've missed or should do? Cheers, it fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ady Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I'll be getting a mechanic to check/ reset the valve clearances for me and suss it out. Does your mate that had the torque wrench have a set of feeler guages? The gregory's should have the clearance settings. Also glad to hear you gave it a crack! Ady. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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