The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

[19914afc]

Hey only just missed your call, put my phone on silent before I go to sleep because of the odd hours. I can't see any problem removing the oil cooler/warmer but I'll ask one of the guys at work and see what they say, but yeah can't see it being a problem.

 

Also that engine still has a Japanese oil filter on it, not the Taiwanese ones they sell at work, haha. Not much difference between the 2.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Yeah thanks Jake, Id appreciate it if you could ask, I can't see how it would cause a problem having now done it, the flange plate for the pipe that comes from higher up on the motor actually had a thread tapped into the hole aswell as the studs, so deleting it is even simpler than making a cover plate ala 20v rwd setup. Silly me went and made a plate from 1/4 inch aluminium plate then noticed that it wasnt required, haha.

So the other connection to the cooler warmer is just a threaded barb the next size up from the upper one. Luckily I had the right tapered brass barbs lying around in the shed so I fitted them up.

 

Next was removing the cooler warmer itself, which was as simple as one 10mm nut and stud, and the 30mm centre spigot that holds it in.

 

I guess its really the same as the 5s that went before it, and most people remove those cooler warmers on them without issue, so hopefully its all good.

 

I also made a more accurate template for my starter spacer plate and delivered it to PRP sheet metal for plasma cutting. While I was there I delivered the phenolic sheet and an itb gasket so that they can make me as many of them as the sheet allows (which will work out to 20, perfectly enough).

 

I bolted up the box and was able to reach into the starter hole to get a measurement of how far to leave the spigot bearing sticking out (its the double row style). I came up with exactly 12mm, so with a margin of safety I left it hanging out 9.5mm so it wont bind up on the nose of the input shaft.

 

I also noticed that one time when I knocked over the new motor I snapped the plug off the vvti switch, so Ive ordered a new one ($137 ouch). Needs to be done, oh well. Serves me right for careless reversing.

So I cleaned all the flywheel bolts and the holes they go into, then noticed my loctite was missing. At this point I gave up for the day and went home, via the bolt shop to get some perfect bolts for my engine mounts. Of course I found my loctite at home in my home toolkit, haha.

 

So tomorrow, I will go past the wreckers and try to find a shorter oil filter spigot so I don't need to modify the stock one and I can fit an oil filter safely. It sits about 1.5 inches higher up out of harms way now that the cooler warmer block is removed. It tidies up the look of the engine a lot on the exhaust side now without all the pipes and junk hanging off it.

 

I removed any stray fwd related accessories, bolts and hoses and have it back pretty close to a bare bones rwd build now. The heater hoses work out really neat, and really you have a choice about 2 sets of connections with the way the cooler warmer ports work. I'm going to use the standard connections with one shortened and one changed from a nipple to a banjo bolt feed. Keep it all behind the head.

 

So finally when I get in tomorrow I can bolt up and torque the flywheel and clutch, fit the box, and bolt it up ready and waiting for installation.

 

I found a couple of slaves that worked floating around the shed too and I also got a trick 90 degree fitting for the clutch line from some shit old kia at the wreckers last time I was there.

Edited August 7, 2017 by LittleRedSpirit
dead photos

[LittleRedSpirit]

Got a speco electric oil pressure gauge yesterday for this car.

 

I've also taken the oil filter adapter that goes through the cooler warmer to hold it on to Prime engineering and they are adding some metal with the welder, and the re machining the thread in the right place so I can just use that part and not waste another morning at the wreckers taking oil filters off grotty old motors.

[LittleRedSpirit]

OK, now the engine has the clutch and flywheel fitted, the gearbox mated up, and its all cleaned up ready for rwd installation.

 

Too many fiddly jobs to mention.

 

I dropped the mounts off to be powder coated a dark grey colour.

 

Motor, box and diff have been wrapped and palletised so that I can start doing body work soon. Just need to chase up coilovers and then get it rolling for paint.

 

Wish I had a scale, Id like to weigh motor n box.

 

Edited August 7, 2017 by LittleRedSpirit

[diegoh]

I see you have an alloy sandwhich plate on your W series box that should save about 2.5kg from the cast iron?

I remember the cast iron sandwhich plate in my w58 swap to earlier alloy plate made some difference

It all adds up in the end as some peeps don't realise the S2000 FC Honda motor is super heavy 148kg fully dressed.

This one should be stonking the Honda FC with its lighter weight and more compact size.

Edited January 23, 2013 by diegoh

[LittleRedSpirit]

Yes exactly. HP Per litre of capacity, its not a great motor in stock form.

 

However HP per kg of engine its hard to top.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Not much to report this week.

 

However, I have been back to Prime Engineering @ Darra and collected the modified oil filter spigot.

 

I couldn't find an oil filter spigot that suited my needs so I had the engineers @ Prime weld up to build the existing one, then cut it off and re tap it the right length. Its basically a shorter version of the previous spigot that also held on the oil cooler/warmer system. Now my oil filter can still be put in the convenient stock location, but its about an inch and a half from hanging out of the stone tray, instead of just poking through. Hopefully this means it wont be damaged by day to day driving.

 

Have purchased a new vvti switch from Toyota. Cost me $126. Not too bad, I think they gave me some sort of trade price.

 

Tested the thermostat, and it was sluggish for my liking. Debating whether to use a cooler 72 or 76 degree Celsius thermostat instead. However the cooling system should work totally stock so I don't know if its worth it.

 

Running out of things to do on the mechanical side for now.

 

I've got to get this body rolling. I'm still waiting for Rick Sendall to finish off my coilovers, and then once that's done I can put the shell together and send it over to him for the headers and full exhaust to be made. Rick has just purchased a muffler shop in Browns Plains now so hes been a bit busy with that, however he's catching up now so I pray that sometime next week I can get the coilovers and bush adapters for my diff back so I can fit them up.

 

Ive also got my mounts in at PRP Sheet metal to be powder coated a dark bluish Grey colour. Could have collected those on Friday but I forgot. He will also hopefully have my 8mm starter plate finished as well. I still will need to scribe it in to fit neat and close off the starter recess.

 

Still to buy -

EFI Fuel Lines

Fuel pump High pressure.

Adaptronic ECU

Have headers made and coated.

Exhaust.

ADM Grill for chassis.

More sheet alloy for fabrications so I can mount the surge tank to a plate with the pumps and filter for ease of install/removal as a unit.

Still need a stock oil pan so I can move the drain bung to the lowest point.

 

Getting ever more excited for this build.

 

Wondering what the weight will be when done.

 

If I can assume the engine is 12kg lighter with accessories than a 4age, less also some extra weight as I plan to reduce the size and complexity of the exhaust manifold, that probably weighs no more than the longer mild steel headers I plan to use. The gearbox will take up the difference in engine weights, but centralise the weight. I also plan on placing the battery in the back seat area for greater mass centralisation. Taking into account the glass bonnet and hatch, I could be below 900 kgs for the wet rolling chassis I hope. Might be able to squeeze in a cage and have it about the same weight as a stock car all told. F Diff adds a fair bit of weight, Id estimate 15-20 kg there, but its in the rear and low to the ground, however unsprung.

 

As much as I wanted it to drive like an original ae86, it may well be a bit different thanks to the extra weight over the middle and rear of the car.

 

Do any of my readers own motor sport scales?

[mrhiguy]

So would there be anyway to make more of these custom clutch throwout bearings you made?

[LittleRedSpirit]

I'm not planning on organising anything.

 

I'm sure if you got in touch with NPC in Brisbane they could make the same thing for you.

[19914afc]

We have scales at work on our wheel alignment testing machine that mate from work uses to corner weight some track cars.

[LittleRedSpirit]

I just realised the neighbours forklift has scales on it. I'm going to use that to weigh it all.

 

I just purchased the fuel pump I need.

 

Its a Bosch 984 external 5 bar 168lph unit.

 

Its got a screw on end fitting on one end and a nipple on the other. Should be perfect. The 2az has higher fuel pressure required to make the injectors work than other motors I've set-up. It needs 57psi hence the higher pressure pump. I already have a nice after market regulator with a dial gauge on it and the fuel rail I need to convert it to a returning system.

 

I just have to see if my carter lift pump has similar enough specs to use in the system.

 

As Indicated earlier I'm going to try and fit all the extra efi fuel system parts into a removable box or tray for ease of set-up.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Made a little more progress now. I was able to meet a nice guy called Sam on the GC yesterday morning and exchange the fuel cell I was selling to fund an adm tank, for an adm tank. So that was a nice swap. Were heading in opposite directions with our ae86s. Id still like to drive mine on public roads, and he is making an indestructible ae86 drifter so its a win for us both.

 

So now I can bolt in the tank and finish laying out my fuel system around it. At last something to do on the car that doesn't mean it has to be rolling.

 

Also sold some wheels to put the money towards the adaptronic I plan to use. Thats probably the last big purchase then. I still will need a driveshaft cut down to suit and an exhaust system fabricated, but that will happen in stages.

 

Wish I could sell a few more bits and get some more money to finish it and of course more room in the shed.

 

Need to see what's going on with Maxhags new waghun as its in my darn shed still now a month later from when it was supposed to go.

[19914afc]

From AE86 DC? I thought it was going to one of my mates place in Lismore then Matt from AE86DC was going to pick it up.

[orangeLJ]

With all the trouble you have gone to with having bits custom made from scratch, or making yourself,

 

Why not go with a custom fuel tank (alloy) from someone like browns tanks? (or any qualified sheety really)

 

You could design it with internal baffles, built in swirl pot/surge tank more capacity (or less, whatever you wanted really)

 

Would save you needing to run anything external (fuel wise)

 

Cost would obviously be the downside, but it would definitely fit with the whole "do it right the first time" approach that you've taken with the conversion?

 

Just a thought. :)

[LittleRedSpirit]

Depends if you like the original styled cars or whether its your thing to do mods all the time.

 

On a street car I don't see the point of a highly engineered race fuel setup.

 

I'm extremely happy with the system I have been working on, it wont get fuel surge, I can fill it through the standard filler and I can use the stock wiring for the sender in the tank. The stock tank weighs not much more than the poly cell (really not much at all) and it holds plenty of petrol. It still gives me a spare wheel under the boot floor and keeps the inside of the floor pan looking stock and unmolested, which should translate into less police attention and a more stock looking car, which I like. I just cannot see the benefit of spending another grand or more on a whole lot of fabrication when I need to spend a thousand on an ecu to run the car. I was able to swap tanks so I spent no money which is a big bonus when your already 12 grand into a project.

 

While I don't mind spending the money when I have it on quality equipment or fabrication, its more a question of how far is it worth pushing this thing. If I go re-engineering systems that are already functional then that's just extending the budget and time frame unnecessarily. I want it on the road, its been 3 years now, maybe more. To me the car would be no more appealing or valuable if I did all that work.