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Project Ke70

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Don't bog it- I'd drill the spotwelds out and peel it off with a chisel, then replace it with a good one from a wrecker that you've done the same with.

 

You can drill a few extra holes in the replacement and hit all the holes with your welder.

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  • Bog body work, not a chassis ahhaaha.

  • sorry guys but this is all so very wrong. cutting springs IS ILLEGAL buy proper lowering springs, they can be had in all shapes and sizes. being young if your cars lowered the first thing the police c

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FYI - all the *e7*'s that have had the 3 little rubber grommets removed from that front lower rad support bar ( a few people were calling it a beaver panel on previous page(s); wrong haha ) which, on yours is all rusted out - don't have anywhere near as bad a rust issues as the water can drain out.

 

Over time, yes, like many other area's on a 70 - rust is an issue, but to prevent this from happening in the future.. make sure the rubber grommets go missing after you repair the rust =D

 

$.02

  • Author

It's gonna be hard, but ill try. :glare:

I deffinatly wouldn't go bogging that.

 

Its a reasonably structural part of the chassis, not just a bolt on panel.

 

Weld in fresh metal, or take it to a pro.

  • Author

I deffinatly wouldn't go bogging that.

 

Its a reasonably structural part of the chassis, not just a bolt on panel.

 

Weld in fresh metal, or take it to a pro.

 

How much would it cost for a pro to do it?

Ask one- Would you really believe a quote you got over the internet from someone who has never seen the job and won't be doing it....

 

If you don't have a mate who is a panelbeater you can expect to pay around the $500 mark. That said, I had 3/4 of a car sprayed for $800, so it depends on your bargaining skill & how much of the work you do yourself.

if you have access to a welder id give it a shot, but get some scrap and try out you're welding first. I'm an ally welder so i don't have alot of experience with steel but a few general rules of thumb that work for me, for 8mm i usually set about 80-100 amps, get some general purpose rods and weld away. if you have you're welder set up nice and you're steady enough the slag should just peel away. i usually hold it with my right hand and support with my left with my left elbow on the table or whatever, strike the tip like a match, and once it arks drag it towards you. if you try to weld freehand it will make it so much harder. get lots of scrap and just keep practicing until you get it (practice makes perfect) then move onto mr ke70. i wouldn't take it to a pro if i were you because there is always going to be more rust to fix and plenty more stuff to weld in you're build (diffs ect.) so you have to learn some time, even if you don't have a welder it will be cheaper in the long run to just fork out for the most basic ark welder that you will use for ever (i'm still using my dads from a million years ago) the pay some dude who will probably rip you off every time you need something welded.

  • Author

if you have access to a welder id give it a shot, but get some scrap and try out you're welding first. I'm an ally welder so i don't have alot of experience with steel but a few general rules of thumb that work for me, for 8mm i usually set about 80-100 amps, get some general purpose rods and weld away. if you have you're welder set up nice and you're steady enough the slag should just peel away. i usually hold it with my right hand and support with my left with my left elbow on the table or whatever, strike the tip like a match, and once it arks drag it towards you. if you try to weld freehand it will make it so much harder. get lots of scrap and just keep practicing until you get it (practice makes perfect) then move onto mr ke70. i wouldn't take it to a pro if i were you because there is always going to be more rust to fix and plenty more stuff to weld in you're build (diffs ect.) so you have to learn some time, even if you don't have a welder it will be cheaper in the long run to just fork out for the most basic ark welder that you will use for ever (i'm still using my dads from a million years ago) the pay some dude who will probably rip you off every time you need something welded.

 

Yeah ill try it myself, definatly on scrap first. But yeah, thanks.

  • Author

Her ass.

post-14674-0-46564100-1323323082_thumb.jpg

 

Electric fan soon to be installed :yes:

post-14674-0-98507300-1323323171_thumb.jpg

 

 

I've been busy with exams and precious sleep, so by next week i should upload (hopefully) every second day.

Cheers.

  • Author

Early christmas presents for the 70. :laff:

post-14674-0-45245200-1323497628_thumb.jpg

 

post-14674-0-47130000-1323497683_thumb.jpg

  • Author

The sump sheild, or whatever its called.

 

Before (All primed, sanded, and treated with some TLC):

post-14674-0-30138700-1323497866_thumb.jpg

 

After (A nice shiny gloss black):

post-14674-0-15401700-1323497983_thumb.jpg

 

And Dad got a MIG Welder aswell. :y:

  • Author

Draining out the radiator to take out, when i find out my coolant is a brownish colour. Muddy and disgusting inside.

post-14674-0-49099900-1323592788_thumb.jpg

 

post-14674-0-41625600-1323592919_thumb.jpg

 

After flushing it out several times, we sanded it back, and primed it, and painted it gloss black. (No photos just of yet, due to it drying, and takes ages :bash: )

 

 

 

 

Ohh and, can someone please tell me, (Stupid Question) How to take the Grille of my ke70? I can't seem to be able to get it off, and was wondering is it bolted down? Or is it attacthed via clips, or split pins?

 

Thanks.

There are stupid clip things. You need a flat head screwdriver or something to close the ends of them. Might be a screw or two as well. Mine are usually held on with zip ties as those clips usually break.

  • Author

There are stupid clip things. You need a flat head screwdriver or something to close the ends of them. Might be a screw or two as well. Mine are usually held on with zip ties as those clips usually break.

 

Thanks, its gotta be a real hassle just for a grille :glare:

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