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Peanut Bait

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  • Author

Bahahahahahah, thats pretty much exactly how it sounds in person.

 

And nah Leo, no difference between cold/warm/hot. Its annoying, fix the starting issue and it seems to have created another issue. I feel like I'm narrowing it down though.

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  • I actually snapped one of the mounting points off so I went, f**k it, all the mechanisms were smooth as.   It was close to the end of the day after 7 hours without a break and id run out of beer.

  • basic, crude, K MOTOR POWER!

  • *sigh   this is why I usually don't ask for help on here. guaranteed someone knows but all I get is f**king fishtanks :|

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...This is how its running ATM. Would a bung TPS make the timing impossible to get right, its like it is retarded and no advance at all will cure it, the video is it advance as much as possible. With a timing light its like its -20 degrees out :/ I'm 99% positive all timing settings (mechanical) are correct.

 

Any pointers? Is there anything else that would retard the timing so much? Could it be an igniter problem?

 

Occasionally when I start it it will run fine, and the timing seems to correct itself. This is what is shitting me, I don't understand what is causing it to fluctuate and run fine one minute, then start it again and it runs like the video. Bung wiring plug maybe?

 

Crank angle sensor? Or crank angle sensor plug? I've heard of the pins/wires breaking inside the plug.

 

Edit:

 

Straight from wikipedia (I've never had to deal with a faulty CAS but it sounds similar to your problem):

"A bad crank position sensor can worsen the way the engine idles, the pistons fire, or the acceleration behavior. If the engine is revved up with a bad or faulty sensor, it may cause misfiring, motor vibration or backfires. Accelerating might be hesitant, and abnormal shaking during engine idle might occur. In the worst case the car may not start."

 

Also this is Trev's plug repair guide:

http://www.ae86drivi...ge-Dizzy-Wiring

Edited by rian

Yeah it's inside the distributor, maybe grab a spare dizzy and see if it works?

It might just be a broken wire in/near the plug? I'd lend you my distributor but it's about 4 hours from your house and I still need to so I can work on my car.

The supercharged 4ag runs crank angle sensor in the dizzy. The normal 16v 4ag's just run hall effect.

 

How are you doing the adjustments on the airgap ? I'd have to have a look in the book but i don't think you can use normal feeler gauges due to the magnet and the effect they can have on the sensor.

  • Author

By eye ;)

 

I fiddled with them when it wouldnt run the first time, then fiddled again to get it running properly. Both the screws were semi threaded before I touched it so someone has been in there before me. Maybe I should just throw in another dizzy that hasnt been messed with.

Yeah be the idea, don't go any further on that dizzy till you've tried a spare.

Just thinking, the bearings could be worn out causing the idle to fluctuate. Is there any oil in the dizzy cap, around the hall effect, etc ?

Its not stealing, its called borrowing. Your going to borrow the dizzy and tps cause there might be the chance you'll return them

 

 

 

 

 

 

one day :lol:

  • Author

Just went and had a chat with the guy, the dizzy looks completely different. I'm gonna take mine down and compare tomorrow.

 

Mines a 7 rib bigport with this dizzy

 

4ageredtop.jpg

 

His looked like this which I'm assuming is the smallport and the dizzys arent interchangeable?

 

smallport.jpg.

It could just have a different cap, The oem vs random manufactured one I had looked different. Being the same variation I see there

 

Easiest way is to just check the plug man, if it has the same plug 99.99% likely it work

Edited by It's_AUDM_Yo

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