Mate,

 

Noticed your comment about my $100 twinky wheel with no leather. I got my price ;)

 

Nice 70 :)

Mate,

 

Noticed your comment about my $100 twinky wheel with no leather. I got my price ;)

 

Nice 70 :)

 

I have two, one is perfect cost me $50, one is sun faded cost me $0. I'm a cheap bastard :P

Bought these in the vain hope that they will help me somehow

 

 

 

Found a cool TRD 4AGE service manual torrent with a lot of wicked info. Full wiring diagrams, diagnostics, step by step problem solving kinda stuff.

 

Buying a new timing belt too, ELIMINATE ALL THE PROBLEMS!

Edited December 17, 201213 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

mate, i stayed silent as i had nfi.. and couldnt help as such..

but wanted to post to let ya know, I'm feeling ya pain.

I'm sure it will be something simple, and will all be ok, when its found

Just took it for a blat. So much fun.

Still has issues. Still not starting properly, but damn, so so so so much fun.

Do you still have that starter signal going to the ECU? And also a starter signal to the COR?

Nah pulled the starter wire off, Might re-attach it now. COR?

Circuit opening relay. When you crank the starter it triggers the COR and turns the fuel pump on. Which helps the engine start quicker.

Edited December 22, 201213 yr by rian

My thoughts about this car ATM

 

 

Throwing out codes 2,5,6,and 10

 

http://youtu.be/SL1v8-YbHpo

 

Had to wind the idle right up just to get it to idle on the way back to the shed.

 

Reset the ecu and try again.

I did.Will try again tomorrow, still waiting for my voltmeter so I can diagnose things.

Edited December 27, 201213 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

check your temp sender ...it could be sending the wrong signals to the computer

Ok so I cleared the diagnostic codes and was still getting code 2 (map) and code 10 (starter signal).

Fiddled with the map sensor and checked the wiring, volts and resistance. Everything seemed fine and the code seemed to clear itself. (magic?)

 

Then it started throwing pretty much every code in the book at me.

 

I changed the plugs, the coil was replaced the other day, I swapped the igniter for my spare.

Rewired the starter signal wire, gets 12V when cranking. So that cleared that code.

 

Now as some of you may remember Ive pretty much had issues starting this thing since I bought it, wiring the starter signal seems to have remedied this issue. It is starting first pop every time now.

 

Now I am getting code 7 (the only code I'm getting now) which is TPS.

 

I checked the volts as per the service manual at the plug, it reckons I should have 0.1V at throttle closed to 4.5V fully open.

No matter how I adjust it I'm getting 0.2V-3.5V. Plus the plug looks like this:

 

 

 

So I'm leaning towards a bung TPS.

This is how its running ATM. Would a bung TPS make the timing impossible to get right, its like it is retarded and no advance at all will cure it, the video is it advance as much as possible. With a timing light its like its -20 degrees out :/ I'm 99% positive all timing settings (mechanical) are correct.

 

http://youtu.be/rWzr80uMOqs

 

Any pointers? Is there anything else that would retard the timing so much? Could it be an igniter problem?

 

EDIT: Also replaced the EFI relay with a spare and checked the resistance of both which were within the OK margins. Checked the resistance of all the injectors which were within correct margins, all getting correct volts also.

 

Occasionally when I start it it will run fine, and the timing seems to correct itself. This is what is shitting me, I don't understand what is causing it to fluctuate and run fine one minute, then start it again and it runs like the video. Bung wiring plug maybe?

Edited December 28, 201213 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

Is there any change to how it runs when its warm versus cold?

 

Very well could be the tps or its plug.

 

Edit: ^thats ʞ©$ɟen hilarious

Edited December 28, 201213 yr by It's_AUDM_Yo