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B.L.Z.BUB

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Heh... You'd be amazed what I've held together with that gunk... It binds the fabric of the universe

 

Yep! I'd say its just as strong holding things as sikaflex probably stronger, I ran out of seam sealer and had a couple of spare tubes of sealant and used them, haha. Worked well!

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK. So I pulled the dizzy out and checked the gaps (dunno what they are called) and they were almost touching the contacts. Adjusted them out and it started. I had to remove the STA wire on the ecu that I ran from the ignition. Tried to time it with my timing gun.

 

Yet again there's something going on there, I managed to drive it back to the shed. Plenty of power, but when I'm cruising its jerking like Michael J Fox.

 

I'm considering a full wiring strip down/overhaul. First ill service it and see if that helps, might try a new cam belt as when the cam gears are lined to the timing marks the crank timing mark looks a bit off. I don't know if this would affect it to the point where it'd give me the dramas I'm having. Might overhaul the dizzy too.

 

Or sell it.

 

Fixing

20121213_153928.jpg

 

Back in the naughty corner.

20121213_164558.jpg

Edited by B.L.Z.BUB
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i don't get it...

 

Distributers are set and forget on these things.

 

what was "almost touching"? its supposed to be almost touching as its a hall effect type thing if i recall.

 

if the head has been shaved in its life, then this will effect the cam belt/timing markings as the distance between the crank and cam change

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There is a gap you can set inside the dizzy. Two gaps actually. I fiddled with the gap when it wouldn't start so I adjusted them back to where they were.

 

Both gaps are meant to be 0.2 - 0.4mm, but you probably already know this. I'd hoped the ECU change would solve things, I'm lost too. :(

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