Hi guys,

I have just spent the last 3 months building my 20 and countless hours to finally get it on the road and running, when i developed a violent shudder thru the car above 20kph . I pulled the front end down for the 15th billion time to recheck everything to find my inner guard had seperated from the chassis mount ( where the stabiliser bar mounts ) .

Here is what has been done to the front end.

 

- all front rubbers done.

- new strut cartriges.

- new king spring lowered

- new inner outer tierod ends.

 

Here is my Pics.

My Question is. Does anyone know or have experenced something similar. Can it be fixxed with out major engineering or is it time to put her down.

keep in mind its what 30+ yrs old?

 

everything is repairable, its just how many dollars its going to cost is the question.

 

if you can't drive the car , take a few decent photos (not the ones you have posted there), and drop into your local panel beater. they will tell you straight away what you are up for.

 

might not be a bad idea to get the other side re welded while your at it too.

Edited December 15, 201114 yr by ke70dave

I have talked to a local panelbeater but they wern't very encouraging. he also said the earliest they could look would be late Feb 2012. I live in Cental Queensland and unless your getting a Insurance job done they either won't look at it or will charge more than it would cost me to buy a new Kidney.

I drive cars fairly hard and was woried if i (just get it fixxed) would it ever drive properly again .

I had given it a bit around a corner when the vibrations started.

 

I have already spent +$5000 on car already and still don't have paint job. I don't think I can handle another 6mths of waiting and $$$ to find out i'm @#$@.

Clean the underbody spray off & go see a general engineer/welder. That sort of work doesn't need a panelbeater.

 

You can cut a couple of circles say 25mm diam in the panel to give it extra weld attachment area.

 

I've found a great local guy who charged me $20 to make a brass bush for my skilsaw. Most engineers wouldn't talk to you for that little.

Extremely easy fix, well for me anyways, just looks like it needs to be moved back into place with a floor jack then welded, although a couple of pics of the lower radiator support side would be good,

 

cheers!

Cool didn't think i could do it with just a floor jack. My mate thats been helping me is a welder that part is cool. Will take better photo's and show ya's .

May have been over reacting , this car has thrown everything at me didn't think i could beat chassis problems in such a old car.

Yep, nothing to it, if your mate can weld good then half an hour later it will be all sweet.

 

and this..

might not be a bad idea to get the other side re welded while your at it too.

Righto pulled the front end panel work down. Here are some photo's but lighting was not the best will put moore up tomorrow in daylight.

After a unhindered look i feel more positve.

the lower radiator support is starting to rust each end . I see one on ebay i assume i should be doing this as well.

Thka for the help so far .

Was looking at differnt build threads today will

sorry to be a pain in the arse, don't suppose you could take a pic or two from inside the engine bay at the affected area? from the photos you have provided, it looks like you have caught it before any damage has occured. My opinion would be to replace the lower radiator support panel while your at it, you already have the panels off and i think (by memory) there are only about 30ish spot welds you have to drill out, I've had to unpick the welds around the headlight supports aswell to make it a proper job,

 

cheers.

Hey Guys. Found my Problem. My welder came round went over the front end said no dramas but argued that it wasn't the cause of my vibrations. Went over the car again from front to back and found that my tailshaft had sheared one bolt and one was just about to let go. I could move the tailshaft and had a bit of play. . Basically being held by two bolts. Will get front fixed while i have it all apart.

If you can, get a hold of some thicker sheet metal (3mm) and make some weld in braces for the affected areas. Probably best to do it where it broke and the same spot on the other side.

 

Really looks as if its been towed from that side and popped the spot welds.

 

Although, 40yrs of Australian roads are going to take their toll on a car held solely together with spot welds.

All good the rolla rolls again. welding done , tailshaft in took for strap without guards or bumpers on and nomore vibrations/groans. Thanks for the help and encouragement. Now i just need a 5k for the motor build .