Jono.C Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) Okay guys i've had a few people ask me how i went about ke20 disks on my ke10. So Yesterday and today when i converted my ke10 to ke70 brakes i took some photo's. I know there's already a write up in Faq but this is more a noob based guide. Okay, So before you go ahead and do the conversion, you have options. Which brakes do you want to use? Ke20: Smaller brakes, Older, 4x110 Stud pattern - Will fit your original 12" wheels Ke30: A little larger, 4x114.3 (Ke70 stud pattern) unsure of if 12's will fit, Doubtful Ke70: The same as ke55, Thicker than ke30 with Girlock brake calipers. 4x114.3 Here's a point though, The hubs are interchangable, So you can put the ke20 4x110 (Early stud pattern) hub on the ke70 brakes, and run your existing wheels (Granted they fit over the brakes) Another point to make here is, Buy ke55 struts if you can. I bought ke70 ones for the brakes only to discover the backing plates are different. Ke55's have the same brakes so you may as well go for them, if not just try and get the ke55 backing plates and caliper mounts. Left is ke70 right is Ke55. See the bolt pattern difference? Okay. So, You've chosen ke20 brakes, You ripper! You'll need the ke20 disks packed with ke10 rear bearings, and use the ke20 front bearing. The beauty with ke20 brakes is the strut doesn't have to be drilled or tapped out. To go ahead with the conversion on the ke10, Strip off all the drum brake gear, down to the bare strut. Should look like this The next thing to do is to bolt the ke20 dustshield and caliper mount onto the strut. Simply using the 4 bolts. Now, You'll want to take the ke20 disk and hub assembly (with a ke10 rear bearing) And slide it onto the axle (Sorry, Haven't got a photo without it bolted up) Fit the ke20 front bearing by simply pushing it in. Next you'll need to screw on and tighten the nut you can see in the photo. What you can see is a ke20 nut and a split pin to hold it together. (just use new split pins) Check that there's no play in the bearings or assembly by moving it side to side and spinning it. Next, Fitting the caliper. This simply bolts onto the two holes you can see on the dustshield/ mount. Now simply connect the ke10 brake hose to the ke20 caliper and you're away! Bleed it up and check there's no play or slop But that's about it! Now for Ke70 Conversion. Essentially the same but you'll need to drill and tap the mounts on the strut (Will explain when we get there) Once again, Start from a bare strut Now, You have to drill and tap those 4 holes to M10x1.25 to use the ke55/70 bracket bolts. The tap i bought to do this suggested a 8.9mm drill bit. I used an 8.5 and then an 11/32? And got a perfect result. Here's just showing how i tapped out the holes: Now the dustshield should simply just bolt on Here's the ke70 rotor and hub, with a ke10 rear bearing using the ke70 seal (The ke10 seal doesn't fit tight in the '70 hub) Again, Simply slide it onto the axle I used a ke70 front bearing this time, works fine. I had issue's once again with the nut and split pin combo, i ended up using the ke20 one again and it seems fine. Once again just check for play and wobble. The caliper just then bolts on the same once again as the ke20 one, 2 bolts. Now the last thing is brake hose. I assume either a ke55 or a ke70 one will work but i haven't messed around with hoses yet i just wanted it rolling. So that's it! Easy isn't it? Now you have no excuse not to do it yourself :jamie: Also, my ke55 dustshield JUST touches my steering arm, but it won't hurt as it moves with it. Any questions or additions to this just ask! - Jono. :cool: Edited January 1, 2012 by Jono.C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 Nice write up Jono! Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted December 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 Cheers! Any criticisms just say! I'd like to find a ke30 setup to add to this just to compare the difference.. If anyone can shed some light on that it'd be great! Forgot to mention, This cost me $20 all up. Mainly because i re-used my old bearings for now until it's ready for rego, and the fact that toy-yoda gave me a pair of ke55 struts. But, I can't see this costing more that $50 - 75 including wheel bearings. Yet to test out the ke70 brakes but they're a decent size for the weight of the car :jamie: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) Difference with KE30 discs is that they are 10mm thick as opposed to the 12-12.7mm KE55/KE70 discs. And calipers Edited December 31, 2011 by SLO-030 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 Yet to test out the ke70 brakes but they're a decent size for the weight of the car :jamie: I can vouch for the 55/70 brakes on a KE-1X great upgrade bang for buck wise. Up sizing your rear wheel cylinders is a must if you don't want the rears to lock when you punch the pedal hard! I also have a KE-10S disk brake master cylinder(super rare) which helps too. Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 KE10-S? Elaborate Stu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 KE10-S? Elaborate Stu? According to Peter Robinson. I had a KE-10 disk brake master cylinder. I have an American workshop manual at home and it does have a section on the KE-10s which does come with disk brakes. He said we did get them in AUS but are fairly rare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 Good old Pete. Any idea on the bore size stu, because there's quite a selection of galant master sizes that will suit. Also, what size rear cylinders did you use? From what? Jono, top article. This is perfect for the FAQ. Can someone please upload it to the FAQ, I'm away for 6 weeks and I'm not doing it from the phone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 Good old Pete. Any idea on the bore size stu, because there's quite a selection of galant master sizes that will suit. Also, what size rear cylinders did you use? From what? haven't measured the master cylinder. I was under the impression that my boss had changed the rear but upon inspection he hadn't. And it pinches rears. I'm on the case. But I think with the new 5k turbo I'll have to change a few things to make the engineer happy like a dual circuit master and I'm also looking to change diff so fronts will need to be upgraded to vented maybe. Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Cool keep us posted. Given how easy this is, and I've got a spare pair of struts, I might upgrade all round. Be good to know what rears fit. Galant masters are dual circuit, they come in a couple of sizes depending which model year, and the bolt spacing is the same. I got priced 130-160 depending which unit I chose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhmills Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Good work Jono, I'll soon to be doing this to my toy :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 You know where i am if you need info :jamie: I have a spare set of ke20 and ke70/55 brakes if you can't find any too, Just need the '55 backing plates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollii Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Just out of interest do u have to run backing plates? I like the look of open discs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 You won't be able to see the plate behind your wheel anyway. It stops rocks and crap getting into your brakes, for example getting a rock jammed in your caliper.. Happened in the paddock. Wouldn't be fun on the road. Plus gravel dust doesn't help you stop.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdw003 Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 (edited) Hey Jono, great write up, I'm hunting some disks now :P just a quick question, will ke25 gear be the same as the ke20? Edited October 13, 2012 by mdw003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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