CorollaNut68 Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 First off, Happy New Year! I'll try to keep this short...1969 KE10 with a swap from 1.1 to 1.2 3K ... while idling my tach makes an occasional jump, it gets worse when trying to drive....like the fire is jumping all over the place...but it's not anywhere i can see or feel, even watching it in the dark...new points, plugs, cap, rotor, coil, new wire from ign. to coil, coil to dist. etc. I can get it to idle ok but it just hesitates and feels bogged down when trying to drive. I've just gone through the entire thing again...new cam , lifters, pistons, rods, crank turned, timing chain.....it should be singing....I've taken the distributor apart to make sure the weights and springs are still ok....I've got all the wiring from the firewall out unwrapped looking for shorts or something.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Timing is correct? Has the cam been dialed in properly or have you made sure the cam isn't a tooth out? It also could be an air leak somewhere, had similar problem on a friends ae86 just sucked in way to much air and ran rubbish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaNut68 Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Timing is correct? Has the cam been dialed in properly or have you made sure the cam isn't a tooth out? It also could be an air leak somewhere, had similar problem on a friends ae86 just sucked in way to much air and ran rubbish It's just a new stock cam and i just assume if I lined it all up correctly assembling the timing chain that all should be well, I had to have some helicoils put in the head and have the manifold as tight as I dare. By the cam being a tooth out do you mean on the timing chain or when you drop in the distributor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 The chain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaNut68 Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Well I thought all was good putting it together, If I find no shorts or anything else i guess I'll have to take it down and check again, luckily I have replaced the studs so I can get the timing cover off without pulling down the oilpan. Looks like the waterpump is leaking too so I have to get in there some anyway, plus the accelerator pump in the carb could use replacing if I can find one. Jeez, I'm tired of working on this thing and ready to drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crostek Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 My Tacho jump around a bit just before the point die or the condenser capacitor stuffs out. is you point's gap right? If all else fails and you get sick of the points set-up, get a Starlet KP61 or 1.5 litre TownAce van electronic distributor? You will also need a coil and igniter from same type of set-up say from a Celica or Hilux with a 22r motor. New starlet dissy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 while idling my tach makes an occasional jump, it gets worse when trying to drive So... when idling the tacho drops momentarily?? So the coil doesn't fire one cylinder. it gets worse when trying to drive....like the fire is jumping all over the place Do it seem to miss that one cylinder once every few seconds? or is it worse than that? The tacho jumps when you fell the miss?? It sounds electrical, because if it was in the timing or cam or air leaks, the tacho would still register a plug firing. Is it different between idle, a long acceleration, cruise, or decelerating?? Got a video or sound file for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Ah- does the .new points, plugs, cap, rotor, coil, new wire from ign. to coil, coil to dist. etc include ..or the condenser capacitor stuffs out. So you have new points, cap, rotor, coil, leads, and wires, with the gap correct and the timing at 10deg?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaNut68 Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 As far as I know....I have everything as it should be that I can see...timing is supposed to be 8deg according to the book...the only things NOT new are the voltage reg. and the alternator and near the end of my fiddling around a couple of days ago one of them seems to be going out now too....charge light started flickering and would go out when I revved it up and then went into a steady flashing that would not quit and the lights all go brite dim in unison...I've never seen it flash like that, usually something goes out and it just comes on steady....Work is real slow this winter so I have no money to play with or I would just keep throwing new parts at it, I haven't had this much trouble from it in 25 years. I have swapped condensors so many times I couldn't say which was the newest one now they all look clean and new but pretty sure the one thats on is the new one, can you check them with a meter?....one other thing...as long as I have owned it and even in it's prime, it's never had a good strong blue spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaNut68 Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 I wiil try to get video if I can...it's 22 degrees F outside right now and I have the wiring spread out making new connections and replacing what I can, tomorrow is supposed to be warmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 I've seen voltage regulators flicker, the points inside open and shut and spark.. Sound like that will be the next thing to play with, can you open it up?? The old ones were able to be opened and you could sand the points clean, just like distributor points, and reset the gap by bending the arm. Even if you jammed it either open or shut and idled the car it would show if the flicking of the regulator was causing the tacho to drop. Run it on the battery voltage for a few minutes or run it on charge at idle, neither should worry the circuit. The alty has brushes that wear away, and they're fairly easy to check. The diodes burn out and stop it charging, but they need unsolderng from the circuit to check that they still flow power one way. You need a special meter to check a capacitor, so just swap through a couple and see if one of them cures it. Doesn't sound likely from what you've said. Only 30deg+ down here... cloudless blue skies, sunny days..... :laff: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaNut68 Posted January 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 well...I went ahead and pulled all the wiring out, a lot of it probably ok but lots of it "crunchy. I ran new 14g wire, new connectors, to all the systems except lights, radio etc under the dash. Now my alternator doesn't flash, it quit altogether...lol.....another 50 bucks, maybe next week. Still don't get a good blue spark but years ago it seems I tried an accel super coil and all it seemed to do was burn the points. I'll be lookin for another carb soon too, if I can't find a kit,,,haha I can't find anyone local with a kit but they can order another rebuilt Aisan for about 100 bucks. Oh and the regulator is a solid state version now, no opening.....the tacho doesn't 'drop'....it leaps up, kind of intermittently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 Well, hopefully hte rebuilt alty will fix it. So if the tacho doesn't drop its not actually misfiring a cylinder, so I wonder if that is a voltage spike coming through. I expect the sealed regulator is a throwaway unit, all you can do is check it with a voltmeter. Even that is difficult these days as the digital meters are much slower to react than the old analogue needle ones. You might end up paying an auto sparkie to check the supply side and make sure you're getting steady 12v. The option is to run it with the alty circuit disconnected and see if it still plays up when running on the battery only. That eliminates the alty and the regulator. Is it easier to get a Weber downdraught than fix the Aisin?? Fiat or some Italian car.. I suppose it would be nearly as old anyway and probably in no better condition. A KP Starlet electronic dizzy would be a good buy, there is a guy sells them in the USA. It should drop straight in and is completely self-contained. I've got an electronic van one in mine and it has cleaned up the occasional misfire and improved low-down pulling power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tojo2 Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 A few things to try: try bypassing ignition switch check wire going to points closely that its not beeing grounded anywhere,also inside dizzy. Disconnect Taco from coilcircuit- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaNut68 Posted January 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 Thanks for all the help guys, I seem to get better info here than on some other forums...I've done all I can for the moment til work picks up. Today I'm going to take the alt apart...never done one before but its dead now so I can't hurt anything, just curious and when i can I'm gonna hunt for a starlet dizzy, $124-264 from NAPA...depending on the year you look for and if we have a good summer (lots o work) I'll hunt for a Webber. Man this car used to be amazing for a lil 4 banger... Years ago, beside being an excellent and surprising uh...street racer(not that I condone that sort of thing, but it happens) I made a 101 mile trip from Little Rock to El Dorado in 50 minutes and had to go through 3 small towns on the way, the rest was open road, two lane, heavy fog at 4 in the morning. slowed to normal through the towns and opened her up in between...Speedo tops at 100mph, just kept it buried and listened to the tone of the engine... I stayed just ahead of a Ford Ranchero with a 351 in a 1000 ft drag...made many many Hondas breathe my sweet exhaust fumes in 1995 Bryant popo said I was doing 131mph...took me to jail...how is that possible...the only mods were true dual exhaust with two 2-1 headers (extractors to you guys) and 13" wheels ( I was in a bad mood and trying to blow it up....they chased me for about 12 miles before the radiator blew and I couldn't see anymore...jumped a ditch at 95mph and ended up with the front end pointing left and right and the centerlink bowed in a half circle) I would have framed the ticket but since they were carting me off they didn't actually write one, plus there were a few other things they tried to charge me with. When it finally went to court it was all reduced down to unsafe driving Today I'd be happy with just being able to go to the store and back :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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