Sznaps Posted December 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2012 (edited) weighted the car with current setup: stock twinky is about 40kg less (due agze and transmission weight differences mostly) 987kgs, weight to power ratio = 4,2 :-) Edited December 28, 2012 by Sznaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOMsGPTurbo Posted January 2, 2013 Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 Zawsze Bialo, Wierni Czerwonym, Tylko Polska ;) I love you're car Sznaps, it must be one of best 82's out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sznaps Posted January 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 thanks man :-). There are great ae82s out there but thanks for positive feedback :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sznaps Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I got opportunity to weight one AE82 GT in its stock form - stock wheels, stock interior, spare wheel, stock everything - almost empty tank - 960kg. More than I thought it would be for stock twinky but the bright side is that my car has not put on weight too much it seems :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoj4agze Posted January 6, 2013 Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 Very nice build! Please tell me, are the dyno figures on the wheels or on the flywheel? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sznaps Posted January 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 (edited) I am not sure but I think that its at the flywheel - there are PWh + Pwr Loss values on the chart(right side) showing wheel power and losses. Not that big numbers are they :-) enough for 100-200 in 12 though :-) It was made on roller type dyno which I think automatically shows result recalculated by some factors to show flywheel value - not wheel value. I am not sure though. Edited January 6, 2013 by Sznaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoj4agze Posted January 6, 2013 Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 With 1 bar turbo I would expect it to be wheel power.... Else it could be flywheel as u say as in RSA they usually report flywheel values as well. I would really like to know for sure if possible.... Have you done head-flowing and cams yet? Impressive results and neat car none-the-less. Thanks for the fantastic post! I would be so happy to get results similar to yours with my ze build. Will post a thread soon - currently still running the car in.... Taster of build. AE101 corolla - previously a 20V BT motor Now - 4agze with 175mm pully on SC12. Not twin charged. fmic 4age Series 3 intake (for better flow) Full gassflow and CAM upgrade. (SC12 only makes 0.5 bar now because of increased VE and efficient breathing I presume - My take is that Boost is nothing without the ability to breath well???) Balanced bottom end. Management system, branch and xhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sznaps Posted January 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 (edited) Thanks mate. No flow changes - the engine is completely stock right now. I am quite satisfied with power now its really just right because its very drivable and with 30hp more it already starts to be fight with the steering wheel + I do not want to stress the engine too much I hope for some realiability here too :-). In this setup there are really easy and not so costly additional horses available - bypass valve +>20, you can install coil on plug (COP) system which will allow to gain 5%-10% more power, big port head +>20, cams are like more top end at the cost of bottom which I do not really would like... and of course you can always increase boost. I think I will go with bypass valve in 2013 and if engine needs rebuild in the future perhaps I would change head. this is what I had with setup similar to yours (175mm pulley, piggy back but oem intake manifold nad TMIC) http://www.cultrides.com/test/GT4/9.Moje/CIMG6360.jpg Edited January 6, 2013 by Sznaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoj4agze Posted January 6, 2013 Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 Thanks mate. No flow changes - the engine is completely stock right now. I am quite satisfied with power now its really just right because its very drivable and with 30hp more it already starts to be fight with the steering wheel + I do not want to stress the engine too much I hope for some realiability here too :-). In this setup there are really easy and not so costly additional horses available - bypass valve +>20, you can install coil on plug (COP) system which will allow to gain 5%-10% more power, big port head +>20, cams are like more top end at the cost of bottom which I do not really would like... and of course you can always increase boost. I think I will go with bypass valve in 2013 and if engine needs rebuild in the future perhaps I would change head. Are you talking about the ABV mod as found in many forums? I don't have an ABV fitted at all - completely removed by my mechanic. I completely agree with you on the reliability thing - I actually hope I have not gone too far with mine - but all engine mods I have done are mild and promote a stronger engine while maintaining normal driving. I don't want insane turbo power on a fwd car :) I have COP as well so am hoping for good results here. One question for you. Have you considered using a screw type M45 (mercedes) super charger in stead of the SC12? I am looking for someone with experience. My research suggested that the M45 (although better) is way smaller than the SC12 but I am not sure if the M45 would have been better.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sznaps Posted January 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 yes i had abv removed as well - first mod in agze :-). Regarding M45 - I do not think they are screw type. Eaton m45 superchargers from mercedes are from what i know and seen lobe/roots superchargers but the lobes are better design than sc12("triangular" lobes). Yes I did some research on Eaton superchargers. m45 is too small. The natural substitute for sc12 is m62 also available from Mercedes (w208 for example). It is newer design, easy to source, unlike sc12 can be regenerated and its size is similar to sc12 so it will fit (some custom work on mounting adapters will be required), it also comes in versions with magnetic clutch so just like sc12 - so almost not disadvantages. It produces almost same values as SC12 so there is no point in switching to m62 if you are looking for power. However if sc12 gives up - its way better to install eaton which will be better/cheaper in maintanance in the future than looking for used sc12 which you will never know how long it will last. I will definately switch to Eaton when my sc12 brakes down. Here is great write up of impressions when using m62 on agze: http://www.whyturbothat.com/corollamain.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoj4agze Posted January 6, 2013 Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 Great. Thanks for that link! I failed to find this a few months ago when I was looking. I am so glad to know that your research supports my decision not to fit the M45 I had available to my car :) You are right, M45 is not screw type (my bad). In South Africa its fairly easy to get 2nd hand sc12's (people seem to only want to turbo the gze here) - but old SC12 units are getting scarce here now to. I prefer the drivable SC torque over the turbo route and prefer to be different anyway :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sznaps Posted January 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 right :-) in EU SC12 is very hard to get. There was a time when i wanted to install SC14 and i bought it and imported from US. Transport cost me more than the supercharger itself but it was still the cheapest & fastest way to go :-)If I wanted other SC12 i think i would have to do the same which i do not really want. Eatons on the other hand are everywhere and with some effort you can get one for really good money. sc12s are old and when you buy used one you never know if it will work a day or a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sznaps Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 Got three news: 1. I have weighred the car to see how mass is distributed and: front is 645 kg and rear 339 kg. So quite normal for FWD 2. I am going to make fibre glass fenders. Have already took one off to make mold 3. The looks of my rolla is still bugging me in a way. Especially since Subaru_kid posted these picks of his rolla on BBS wheels :-) I have borrowed 15x8 et 0 Zender rims with 195/50 rubber from my friend to see how it would fit to current setup: Currently - 15x7 et 13, 185/55: On borrowed 15x8 et 0, 195/50 I am thinking that if I decide to go that way I would mount 15x8 et 25 rims with 195/50 rubber. Rims would be different than these zenders. I am thinking more about some BBS RM like with polished lip and dark middle. Few more pics: What do you guys think? Is this the way to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sznaps Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 Winter does not want to leg go but I got her out from garage. I got back to previous OZ wheels and lowered suspention a bit. Going back to OEM look - oem fender flares already wait to be installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azza91 Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 how are the fibreglass fenders coming along? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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