Help me guys....

 

my peanut fail to start when i parked it for about a week......

it just cranks but no fire up.....

 

But i found that cleaning the contact points in the dizzy works......

i did this for several times but it continues again....

 

every time it fails to start in a parking period about a week

 

can anyone sort out the problem????

are they adjusted correctly and/or excessively worn?

Unless they are fairly new just fit new points and a condensor. If you fitted the points in there last time, did you fit a new condensor at the same time?

 

I think the condensor is a prime suspect, it sounds like a weak spark. Timing also, if the points have worn closed a bit they will retard the ignition timing and make it hard to start.

 

Something is struggling to make factory parameters, so condensor, or coil, or battery, or starter motor or dizzy cap. Maybe one component is pulling excess power and not leaving enough for the others to work as they should.

 

Do you have the stock coil and the ballast resistor fitted? They are important to help starting.

what exactly does the condensor do?

 

i had a blown one a few yrs ago, stupid car would idle perfectly, but would handle ZERO load. i coudl not get the car to move an inch, even rev and dump just stalled the engine.

 

agreed on changing both the condensor and points (and adjusting properly the points). They are so cheap that its good to do them reasonably often, or at least adjust the points often. or get an electronic dizzy and throw the points in the bin :P

i can see my dizzy cap points build up some white stuff.....(like oxides)

 

after i clean/remove them, it fires up quickly....

 

is that the fault??? And is it possible to replace that points???

It was 20 years ago, but my KE35 had starting issues. The coil or dizzy were not getting enough volts to fire up the motor. We ran a wire from the starter to the coil/dizzy to supply 12V during starting. don't ask me where from and to as I said it was over 20 years ago now but it solved the problem for us.

 

A walk through and its even a K motor!

It was 20 years ago, but my KE35 had starting issues. The coil or dizzy were not getting enough volts to fire up the motor. We ran a wire from the starter to the coil/dizzy to supply 12V during starting. don't ask me where from and to as I said it was over 20 years ago now but it solved the problem for us.

 

i have a feeling this is already somehow wired into the system. starts on 12V that chunky resistor drops it to 9V or something.

Yeah. As I said it was a long time ago that we did this. I know for certain a new wire was run from the starter to the dizzy, coil area. What it hooked up to at either end I dunno now :(

i have a feeling this is already somehow wired into the system. starts on 12V that chunky resistor drops it to 9V or something.

 

The stock coil is low voltage, either 6 or 9 I can't remember, and the ballast resistor drops the 12v down to that voltage while you drive, dumping the excess power as heat. When you crank the starter the ignition key bypasses the ballast resistor and directs the battery straight to the coil. In theory your 6V coil is now getting 12v, but the starter draws so much current the voltage drops and the coil runs at its best. This is better than having a 12v coil trying to start the car at 9V or less under cranking.

 

The condensor is a capacitor and builds electrical current to discharge when the points close, making a larger current flow through the coil and generate a larger spark voltage. They slowly degrade and will leak power away to earth.

 

i can see my dizzy cap points build up some white stuff.....(like oxides) after i clean/remove them, it fires up quickly....

They are oxides caused by the spark burning the aluminium contacts away in the cap, but usually the spark jumps right through the oxide. I clean them off every year or two. Don't let the gap between them and the rotor get too big or it will be hard for the spark to jump the gap.

 

Sort out the points & condensor, and if you still have trouble you might try a new rotor and dizzy cap.

 

or get an electronic dizzy and throw the points in the bin :P

 

best idea!

Edited December 13, 201213 yr by altezzaclub

ok thanks so much guys.... it helps me alot..... thanks again

Hey guys just another question..

 

How should i buy that electronic ignition conversion kit for my 3k ??

 

is there any modal number or is it a standard for all cars??

And how about the price?? I asked it from my local dealers but they don't have them ;)

 

What should i do?? Just need to know how should i find the compatible one for my car

 

Cheers

I think all the K motors can use them. They were being sold by one of the sponsors on here, KEmotorsport, and by a guy in the USA.

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/user/11199-ke-motorsport/

 

They are still made brand-new for the 5K, and the USA ones are for the KP61 Starlet.

there is also the hotspark ignition conversion which a few people on here have had success and will be the next thing i do to mine. They are on Ebay and also from the supplier direct. Basically replaces the contact breaker points.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electronic-Ignition-Conversion-Kit-for-4-cylinder-BMW-2000-2002-Tii-M10-e21-320i-/310525617091?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484cc4e3c3&_uhb=1#ht_21767wt_1037