basically i have replaced my clutch and pressure plate and when i put the gearbox back on and everything back together, when i depress the clutch pedal it wont disengage the clutch. i have a new cable too so it isnt the cable that is stretched. i checked the gearbox and i can move the clutch fork with my hand very easily so it has got me thinking it is something to do with the clutch plate/flywheel. any advice?

Are you sure you put the clutch plate in the right way round?

Charles, my immediate thought also ! It's been done before, & certainly results in the symptoms you describe. We even had a rollaclub member put the clutch throw out bearing on the wrong way around recently, which ultimately resulted in a horrible noise.

 

The unfortunate problem with all these mistakes is, the whole gearbox has to come out again.

 

Here's a checklist (that other may wish to add to) to ensure when doing clutch work, before the gearbox goes back in.

 

1. If you are doing a auto / manual conversion, make sure you obtain & install & "new" spigot bearing in the back of the flywheel.

 

2. Check that the clutch plate has the right number of splines for your gearbox spigot shaft. 19 or 21 splines.

 

3. Ensure an "after market" pressure plate doesn't clip the bell housing. Especially a problem when fitting KE70 5 speed boxes.

 

4. Ensure clutch plate is fitted the right way around.

 

5. Align the clutch plate before tightening up the pressure plate holding bolts, which should be tightened evenly a bit at a time.

 

6. Ensure little retaining pins/clips are fitted to the clutch fork pivot shaft ends.

 

7. Fit rubber boot to fork arm & bellhousing hole before fitting gearbox to the engine.

 

8. If you need to change the reversing light switch wiring connector on top of the gearbox in anyway, do it before reinstalling gearbox.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited July 27, 201313 yr by Banjo

As the clutch plate wears the pressure plate pushes out further backwards at the release bearing, so it pushes the release bearng back, the cable gets loose and the clutch 'takes' higher on the pedal.

 

With a new clutch plate the pressure plate sits much flatter and the release bearing has further to go before it acts, so the clutch pedal takes lower down.

 

Over time things wear and I've fitted a spacer in at the top of the cable to take up the difference.

Further to the suggestions already posted, have you tried adjusting the E-clip for the cable - situated at the firewall?

Hi Charles,

Was the new clutch cable you fitted a genuine Toyota one, or an after-market one ? I've seen aftermarket ones that were too long on the inner cable, and you couldn't adjust enough at the firewall.

 

Did you by any chance have the flywheel machined acoss the friction surface, reducing the step on the flywheel, to the outer area where the pressure plate bolts up to. Should be a minimum of a 1mm step off memory.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited July 27, 201313 yr by Banjo

Hey guys got it all sorted and running today! Turns out of the three clutch cables I have (all second hand) on closer inspection, were three varying lengths. I used the longest one and it was no good so I put he shorter one in and it works fine. I put a straight edge against the flywheel and it was nice and flat so I didn't bother getting it machined. Battery went flat- another problem, but I may need to adjust the c clip position a bit more but it seems not too bad thanks for the advice.

Hi Charles,

Thanks for the feedback ! Glad that all the advice proved successful in the end.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited July 28, 201313 yr by Banjo