Clapped out Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 You may have to get the plastic centres chrome dipped/electro plated, only way I can think of, cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 turns out they are plated with aluminium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 (edited) I'v ran into a bit of a problem, one of the exhaust bolts is missing, i can't get anything to fit, not even a threading tool,so i have to make a drill fit so i can dril it out then thread it and use a M10 bolt :) i can't drill it where it sits, i tried to the manifold off the head but i can't reach the all the bolts and i stripped one aswell... :( .. so i got 2 options.. i could take the engine out then drill it, or i could take the head off and then hopefully port it a bit (just clean it up and polish the exhaust), regrind the valveseats and maybe shave off the head a tad... but my question is, can i reuse the head gasket? i know i should get a cam and carb aswell, but i really don't have money right now... I don't need to re-tune it if i shave the head? what do you guys think i should do? Edited November 24, 2014 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 Head off! Those compressions are weak, either valves or rings (or both) need doing. The variation between them suggests valves over rings. The head is the easy part, so just as you say, strip and inspect, look at the bores and piston slap, grind the valves, port the head, skim it and fix all the bolt holes. Make sure every bolt (incl head bolts) go right to the end of the holes. Take a bolt of the right thread and cut a slot down it with a hacksaw if you don't have the right tap. There is a picture in The Girls KE70 build. That will allow the dirt to go somewhere as you screw it in and out. A compressor is nice too. With clean boltholes, put a touch of grease on every bolt when you fit them. I would re-use a head gasket that has not been run, I've had to do it with some assembly mistake or paranoia in the past. But any gasket that has been driven on will destroy itself coming off. Clean the waterways out in the block while the head is off too. If you took 10thou off the head you woldn't worry. 15thou means you'd have to use 95octane or better. You'd just alter the timing if it 'pinked' from extra compression, but the japanese versions ran more than the exports. A hot cam will handle more compression better than a stock cam, pre-ignition happens more at low revs witha stock cam as they fill the cylinder more. So skim it now in readiness for a hot cam later. option two- Pull the motor out and do the same, but now its easy to clean everything and fit a ground cam. You could do bearings without pulling the pistons out and lighten the flywheel, all good ideas but the cost creeps up and up. Aim for a single DCOE and extractors later, as you can do those with the motor in place. Doing the cam and flywheel now means you don't have to pull the motor out again later. Someone on here could mail over a gasket set if they are hard to get there. Same with a ground cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 (edited) Thanks, i think i can get hold of a gasket kit, But Cams ( engine parts for K series in gneral) is impossible to find over here, even harder is a hot cam.... been looking arround for a hot cam on rollaclub but i have not found any, regrinding a cam here is like 400 dollars so I'm not even considering regrinding my stock... if i could get hold of a hot cam for cheap i will be doing this for sure! I got a friend in a mechanical school that can shave the head for free, ill ask him about the flywheel aswell.. 10-15thou = 0.3mm ish? octane is not a problem, i usally run my bikes on 98, i could get hold of 99 aswell :) we only get 95-98-99 over here :) shout out if you got a "Hot" Cam laying arround that you don't need :) Edited November 24, 2014 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 I can get you one cut and mail it over. $150 would do the cut. You should get the followers cut afresh so they wear to the new cam, and I'm sure we have cams and followers up in Woolshed Rallying. Cam cut and followers came to under $200 for mine at Crow, I think it was $170 all up including mailing it back to me. Have a look through the cam specs at Crow, Tighe, Camtech, Waggott, Wade & Camshaft Engineering. I think Crow and Tighe do most of Rollaclub's cams, but they will all have cams in similar ranges. I picked a miild cam for high altitude, a 270deg, the Crow 606. You could easily run a 280-285deg since you're not in traffic... The stock springs work up to 0.4" lift, although guys on here have gone higher. After that you need new springs. Visit www.performancetrends.com and d'load cam analyser3.2 and have a play. These are the mild cams I researched a few years back, I didn't list the hotter cams from each company- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 ..and the next obvious question.. Straight airmail is $40 for 500g-1Kg, and registered mail is $46. http://auspost.com.au/apps/international-parcel.html?searchCriteria.countryCode=NO What are extractors worth over there?? About $220 here, but they are a very bulky shape to mail.. Maybe we could sea-mail those and let it take a few months. Hurricanes are the only ones now I think, not equal-length or anything flash, but better than stock! I paid $215 a couple of years back. https://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/product_info.php?cPath=552_554_801&products_id=3763&osCsid=57ae04612c40c21b6546910ecbcb4efb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 (edited) the cam idea sounds awesome!! how much you want for the whole job + stock cam and followers? :) ill pay you before you set of if you want to do this! The carreet driv is going to be sten, but its no traffic jams here or nothing, just empty montain roads :D so I'm thinking 280 and 0,4" lift as you said, if the stock carb would handle that? i know of a Company in Finland who makes extracotrs for the KP/KE... i think that may turn out cheaper than one from australia, but iv also talked to David Riiber , Fredric Aasbø's mechanic, he has been building some ke70's hes unding the stock extractors, heavy dury srpings, one 45mm sidedraf weber, cam and shved head :) he got 80-90hp... so I'm thinking its not that big of a deal.. + I'm not shure a Australian RHD extractor would fit a LHD car ... :) EDIT: looking at your cam thingy i can't find any with 280 dur and 0.4" lift or under... but the Crow cam looks intresting , the Wade 259A is alsmost identical, but it got lower duration at 0.50"...so its milder? Edited November 25, 2014 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 + I'm not shure a Australian RHD extractor would fit a LHD car .. Ah- good point, you will have a steering box or something in the way. Those cams were just the ones I considered, and I only wanted a 270deg cam. I bought the Crow for its fast lift before 50thou lift is more important at 2500ft than at sea level. I can take a look for hotter cams on those websites. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 hmmm.. i live at about 2000+ feet above aswell, but anything a touch hotter than the Crow cam and I'm pleased, this is going to be used as a daily in the summer time so i can have anything extreme and still want sooome fuel ecconomy.. and something that would tear up the gravel and climb the hills a bit better :) you know more about this than me, so if you think a cam is nice for me it probly is ;) anything anything with 275++ dur and 0.4lift is good for me :) I'll PM you now :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted November 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 Neeeedd help! took my head off 2 mins ago! what to do with the water??!?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted November 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 anyways... as you may have noticed i'v started to strip down my motor a bit.. cleaning up going to sand this down to remove the deep scratches... :) rockers and pins got to remove 2 valves before i had to go no valve seals? also had the pleasure of seeing 2 deers on my way home :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 Don't worry about the water, just dry it out with a rag. Its just spillage from inside the head as you lifted it. If you're not taking the pistons out you can turn the motor by hand and wipe the cylinders a few times, then put a bit of oil on the walls. You're right, no valve stem seal on that one. Exhausts don't need them as they are under pressure when the valve is open, the inlets are under slight suction so they tend to suck oil down the stem and into the cylinder. I can't see which that one was. That valve looks good, just needs a cleanup. The thickness of the ridge around the bottom shows it still has plenty of life left. You can send it off to a head shop or do it yourself. You just spin the valve in a drill mounted in a vice and hold sandpaper against the dirty bits. Start off with about #100 grit and then use about #240 wet & dry paper with a spray of WD40 or CRC 556 or whatever light penetrating oil. That will bring the metal up clean and shiny, but don't sand the seating surface or the shiny stem. Then you grind the valves in with hand-grinding tool and some fine paste, just like they did for the first 75years of automobile engines. The ports get a cleanup with a flapper wheel on a drill, it just cleans the carbon out and maybe tidies up the casting marks. If I were you I would buy a porting tool ( a cutting burr for alloy) and grind the ports out to match the one-piece gasket sold for K motors first. Just let that diameter blend back into the normal throat size further in. It will match the aftermarket inlet manifolds for carbs like Webers and SUs and probably help inlet flow on the stock carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 Also- put a straightedge along the manifold faces where they touch the head. If they're not lined up well, try to loosen the 4 bolts holding them together, using lots of "bolt-loosening oil". Don't try too much torque or they will snap, but I have had some come loose and some stay frozen. If you can bolt the manifold up with them slightly loose the two manifolds will align correctly, then you do up the four bolts. If they are not straight on the head you get the well-known exhaust gasket failure in the middle. Best idea is to buy extractors and throw the cast ones out, although they usually need some alignment work too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted November 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the tips! ahhh yeah , i understand what you mean with the valve stem seals! actualy, dad got a Volvo B36 V8 from a 1956 truck s in a 50 series Crown, that did not have seals at all... :P I'v already got a porting tool and tools to Re-grind valves ;) iv been doing Honda Moped motors since i was 13 :P i took a quick look at the manifold, it looked stright but ill find something 100% stright and test, i'v seen a few of those twisted ones :P my brother got that problem in his Crown... I'v been looking for some carbs/ manifolds but i just can't find any, a set of 3k-b carbs would be perfect, or 1 twin weber/solex.... i want it to be somewhat fuel economical aswell, due to the gas cosing 2.90AUD/Liter over here...!! and this is going to be a car I'm going to use almost daily... and i have to measure the cc tomorow... dunno how but I'm gonna try :P Edited November 28, 2014 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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