February 15, 201412 yr comment_677575 ok so leave it at 10' advance and use a single toyota genuine? too easy bud! where can i source genuine yota HG's from? Well there's your hg blowing problem then! You CANNOT just run standard old timing with a turbo motor. Back in the good old carby turbo days I ran a locked dizzy at 25°. A bit better solution would be an msd 6al btm. I now have ecu controlled ignition timing so its not an issue for me. With my 8.5:1 c/r I can still screw in 28° @ 18 odd psi! :D Report
February 16, 201412 yr Author comment_677621 25 degrees advanced gah thats a large amount rightio ill buff it up to around 25 then and see what happens Report
February 16, 201412 yr comment_677624 Si is saying is you shouldn't run it if you haven't had your distributor recurved to suit a boosted application ie more advance at start but less total mech/vacuum advance, otherwise you will blow head gaskets. 25 degrees + 25 advance = 50 degrees which is too much. From what I read on the interwebs you're looking for around 18 to 25 initial +15 advance. Someone might confirm? Alternatively run an MSD 6AL BTM. Report
February 16, 201412 yr comment_677627 Nah with a LOCKED dizzy, so the timing is always 25°. Ie you need to tie up the mechanical advancement weights so they can't move. It might make it a little hard to start on cold mornings though, a decent sized battery is a must! The btm would be the way to go but they are like $600 Report
February 16, 201412 yr comment_677657 Listen to this man. He knows his shit. Been a while guys, will be good to catch up. Report
February 17, 201412 yr Author comment_677681 Nah with a LOCKED dizzy, so the timing is always 25°. Ie you need to tie up the mechanical advancement weights so they can't move. It might make it a little hard to start on cold mornings though, a decent sized battery is a must! The btm would be the way to go but they are like $600 to lock a stock 4k dizzy with lock wire by just removing the springs and locking the weights??.. then timing it to 25 advance sounds simple enough! thanks Taz_rx many more querstions to come i believe! haha Report
February 17, 201412 yr comment_677683 to lock a stock 4k dizzy with lock wire by just removing the springs and locking the weights?? Exactly. Don't use cables ties lol. Did that once, after a few months they snapped and wound in an extra 40 odd degrees. Hg didn't like that much lol Couple of tack welds on the weights also works if you or a mate has a mig. Report
February 17, 201412 yr comment_677685 I actually locked up my suzuki sierra distributer on the weekend (installed a haltech to run the ignition advance) Someone had tried to lock it before but it wasnt all that successful. I just used some copper wire and wrapped it around th screws that held the advance, and another screw that was on the stationary housing. Seems to be working well so far. though i might put a tab of locktite on the screws to avoid the 40 deg timing... Report
February 17, 201412 yr Author comment_677686 Exactly. Don't use cables ties lol. Did that once, after a few months they snapped and wound in an extra 40 odd degrees. Hg didn't like that much lol Couple of tack welds on the weights also works if you or a mate has a mig. aviation life ;) no shortage of lock wire in all gauges and lock wire pliers here :P one timing is at 25 degrees and dizzy is locked any other advice? 10nm extra torque on HG new head bolts? Report
February 17, 201412 yr comment_677688 As for gaskets I only run genuine Toyota hg's now. Stu (Kickn5k) its also trying to organise an arp head bolt group buy so if that happens it could be worth jumping in. Neither are essential but if you want done piece of mind I would suggest. You can also do some research on trying to make a boost retard solenoid to replace the vac advance one on your dizzy. Report
February 23, 201412 yr Author comment_678184 hey guys replaced HG today torqued it down an extra 10NM of torque and locked my dizzy, started fine. set the timing to around 20 degrees BTDC wound a tiny bit more fuel in on the carby, took it for a drive down the road stepd on gas, i had no boost pull at all like 2 PSI max, then if i kept hold it on the boost would spike to 10psi and car would backfire.. any idea on what is going on now? Report
February 24, 201412 yr comment_678237 Knock it back to 10 or 15 degrees? I've since read (http://www.autospeed....html?&A=109132 ) that 10-15 degrees locked is appropriate for boost on an otherwise stock internals N/A engine. Though every application (and every opinion on the internet) is different I guess. Anyway I'd suggest that now you've locked it, go conservative initially then gradually wind in more advance as power increases until you ping. And how are the gaps on your spark plugs? I think they need to be gapped closer than for a stock N/A engine? I'm hooking up an SC14 blower currently so I'm following your trials with interest. Edited February 24, 201412 yr by Mechanical Sympathy Report
February 24, 201412 yr comment_678242 Well just to confuse you, I'd say knock it up to 25° like I originally said. Standard gap should be fine, but changing to b7es plus wouldn't be a bad idea. Report
February 24, 201412 yr comment_678247 Whereas Si's opinion is based on actual experience rather than google-based interwebbing and should be duly considered. Now go outside and post the results!! Edited February 24, 201412 yr by Mechanical Sympathy Report
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now