Finally got some time to get the solid mount suspension on. Worked well considering I've never turned a spanner on a Corolla but bloody great car to work on

 

There's a few areas that strength looks like it could be an issue now that there are no bushes in any of the suspension except sway bar links and will most likely either crack or hopefully not tear sheet metal.

 

Next on the to do list is to get some spare 2mm or 3mm sheet steel and begin looking at what may be weak and benefit from some strengthening welds.

Think about the options to seam welding. Sure its the easiest and most common way of strengthening a car, but it defeats the very reason spotwelds were used. A row of spot welds allows flex to dissipate stress, something that makes the metal last longer but upsets race car drivers. You replace that with a straight welded seam and all the stress gets concentrated along the weld edge, asking for it to crack.

 

An option is to double the number of spot welds by drilling through one layer and hitting the hole with a Mig. The problem is the sealant between the layers making a mess of the weld. Worth trying...

 

Anothe one is to use studs, so you drill between every spotweld and put in a stud rivet. The strengthens the seam but allows some flex without concentrating the movement down a weld. After all, they rivet aircraft together, they don't weld them!

Think about the options to seam welding. Sure its the easiest and most common way of strengthening a car, but it defeats the very reason spotwelds were used. A row of spot welds allows flex to dissipate stress, something that makes the metal last longer but upsets race car drivers. You replace that with a straight welded seam and all the stress gets concentrated along the weld edge, asking for it to crack.

 

An option is to double the number of spot welds by drilling through one layer and hitting the hole with a Mig. The problem is the sealant between the layers making a mess of the weld. Worth trying...

 

Anothe one is to use studs, so you drill between every spotweld and put in a stud rivet. The strengthens the seam but allows some flex without concentrating the movement down a weld. After all, they rivet aircraft together, they don't weld them!

 

Great advice! I'll look into riveting more as well as different welding methods. I have a tig and looking to get a mig so just seems easier but could be wrong

 

The previous owner stitch welded the whole car but I'll be looking at making the rear better where there seems to be much less strength in the body there.

 

My main concern is the actual mounts for the suspension arms to body. Can just see something giving there

The previous owner stitch welded the whole car but I'll be looking at making the rear better where there seems to be much less strength in the body there.

 

That and a proper cage should be all you'll need. Stitch welding is by far the best way to do it.

A work sponsored customer runs full seam welded bay, car has to make atleast 1300hp considering it runs 8.3-8.5 qtr mile in FULL street trim. No cracks to speak of, in 7+ years!!

 

If your worried about the rear mounts, tying them into the cage supports will help too.

Yeah it's caged too. Not too sure on how good the cage is as it still needs to pass CAMS cert so will find out soon enough

 

I'll defs have a look at how to marry up to the cage base and other strong areas cheers ;)

You should put a bar in front of those box links from the cage to make rigid under load,

 

Here's mine in the Cortina

 

You should put a bar in front of those box links from the cage to make rigid under load,

 

Here's mine in the Cortina

 

 

Yeah good call and it's on the cards for sure. Looking to tie into the cage where I can too without adding un needed weight

Finally got some time to make progress after ages of part collecting. A mate has fabbed the chassis mods together with some really good simple ideas implemented.

 

The main goal was to bring the chassis and cage together as well as implement the longer upper control arms to match lower arm length for good pinion angle under full tilt which there will be a lot of.

 

All nuts and bolts are roughed in and half of them will be replaced to go with a bit more plating for strength on arm pick up points too.

 

We are aiming for Vic time attack in April to have a red hot go and establish a personal best time for Phillip Island to further improve on over time.

Dude is there is going to be any corolla left!!! Haha.

 

Very interesting metal work therethat's for sure.

Dude is there is going to be any corolla left!!! Haha.

 

Very interesting metal work therethat's for sure.

 

Yeah I know lol

 

I guess all this is to compliment the great wheel base and geometry of a KE70 tbh.

Coming along well, different approach to 1/3 chassis car perhaps? haha

 

Why not a rear clip tho, your almost there

Coming along well, different approach to 1/3 chassis car perhaps? haha

 

Why not a rear clip tho, your almost there

 

I don't think it's called for tbh. This stage is costing a lot more time and money than I planned but sort of needs to happen. Once the floor and tunnel is in we'll be adding onto the cage to make it better for side impact and doing a little more under car for the ass end.

 

Have to stop some where otherwise it'll never hit the track :)