Infy Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hey guys, So I've bought my second corolla, a 1974 ke35, and the previous owner has put a 4k in because his wife blew up the 3k. Now when I bought it, it hasnt been completed, I've got what appears to be a fuel return line? Which I thought these cars didn't have. I'm probably mistaken, but if anyone could be so kind as to tell me where this is meant to connect to that would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 It usually runs to the fuel pump. Some fuel pumps don't have a return spout though. If that's the case you can just block it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corollaart Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Yes there where two lines that returned to the front of the car . One the main fuel line. The other smaller one fuel tank vent to the charcoal canistar near the battery . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infy Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Ah, awesome, it appears I'm currently missing the charcoal canister then. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corollaart Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Just looking at the line you have a pic of i would say that its the main fuel line ,being on the right side . From memrory the fuel tank vent crossed over from the right side to left near the bell housing. The charcoal canister was part of the battery hold down clamp. I'm sure some one has a pic of the original set up. rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hi Brent, That is definitely the fuel pump return line. If you get under the car and trace it back, it will pass along the tailshaft tunnel and then go up through the floor, above the diff to the fuel tank. There are two pipes going through the floor at this point. The larger diameter one is the fuel supply line from tank to fuel pump, & the smaller one the return line. The little plastic canister you are looking at is the one way valve that allows fuel to flow only back to the tank. It will have "TO ENGINE" moulded into it. In my KE30, it is attached to the steering box with a small metal bracket. I believe the ealier KE30 & possibly KE35s were not fitted with the carbon canister attached the battery hold down clamp arrangement, which is why your return line is on the drivers side of the engine, and goes straight to the fuel pump. I have a KE55 coupe, and it definitely has the carbon canister. If you are going to hook it up to a fuel pump with a return spout on it, make sure you check that the one way valve is working properly. Blow through it in both directions, with a piece of plastic or rubber hose attached, into a container of water, and look for bubbles. If the valve is leaking slightly from tank to pump direction, then soak in solvent for a bit to see if that cleans it up. If not, replace it. Cheers Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corollaart Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Sorry about that Brent thought they where all the same (ke30 ke55) but not the case . Thanks for the correction Banjo. rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clapped out Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Your old 3k had this to match your body. Pollution gear..pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infy Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Awesome, Thanks for the help guys. The 4k that's been put in appears to be missing that control valve, among other things. Unfortunately this little problem has to go onto the back burner, as I've been trying to get the engine to crank over (which i figure i shouldn't need that return for). Engine only cranks over slowly, no where near normal crank speed to start, Brand new battery, had the starter motor checked, put in and checked the ground to the chassis and engine block, also checked the positive to the starter motor. Pulled the spark plugs out, and the motor would crank faster, but still what i think isn't fast enough, put the plugs back in, back to slow crank. Any ideas? I originally bought the corolla as i was hoping it wouldn't need much to get it on the road, so far it's full of gremlins Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexsmaz Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 (edited) Remove the plugs again & try to turn it over by hand using the engine fan to turn the motor over, If it turns over easily then the motor is ok (it should turn over with only very light resistance ) if its tight then you have issues ... If it turns over easily then you either have a Dud starter motor, poor inferior main battery leads, or the battery is no good, even though you said its new, try using some good quality jumper leads on the battery before you actually remove the plugs & do the hand test .. Edited January 30, 2015 by lexsmaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infy Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 I've recharged the battery already to double check that, the starter I've both shorted it whilst on the car, and taken it off and bench tested it, also checked the leads from the battery etc. so I pulled the spark plugs again, and tried to turn it by hand using both the fan and the crank pulley, and was still tight to turn. I took the rocker cover off, and turned it to make sure the valve train wasn't binding, and it all seems to be moving well enough.. so before I pull the head off, could the gearbox/pressure plate etc. be a possible issue? Apparently the clutch was replaced prior to me purchasing it, so if I just backed off the bellhousing and tried to turn it again? Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexsmaz Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 (edited) How tight was it to turn over with the plugs out, if you have a socket & ratchet on the crank pulley & give it a quick heavy push down on the ratchet handle by about a 1/8 of a turn the motor crankshaft should basically over run the ratchet by around another 1/2 turn, give or take a bit .. Sounds like yours is tighter than that?? as you said you could undo the bell housing bolts, but if the motor cocks over on an angle it will load up the input shaft on the gearbox & could give you a false reading & I can't see clutch wise there being a problem there .. If you turn it over by hand can you hear any scraping noise around the back of the flywheel area .. If nothing seems obvious it sounds like the motor will need coming out .. Edited January 30, 2015 by lexsmaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infy Posted February 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 So I've ended up taking the head off. Everything seems to be fine so far, small amounts of corrosion in the water jackets but nothing you wouldn't expect after 40 years. and nothing so bad as to suspect anything wrong. Even with the head off the motor is still hard to turn over by hand, I've tried to oil the bore a little, there isn't any scoring, just the usual carbon build up you would expect. So that leaves me with either the bottom end being shot, or what? the gearbox might still be an issue? although I don't hear any noise while turning it over by hand. Mind you I'm only getting about 1/8th of a turn each go. It's not seized, it still turns, just requires more effort than I would think necessary... I really don't want to have to pull the bottom end apart.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexsmaz Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 (edited) Its a guess as to what it is, but rather than try & pull the sump off in the car just pull the motor out, it will be easier to work on then & if it is the flywheel dragging etc at least you will see it then too & if the flywheel area looks ok as far as dragging goes I would throw a second hand motor in it .. PS, with the head off you should be able to grab the front crank pulley & turn the motor over by hand with little effort ( basically it should have slight resistance / drag ) .. Edited February 1, 2015 by lexsmaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infy Posted February 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 So finally got the motor out, bent a couple bellhousing bolts along the way. Clutch is brand new (previous owner had said as much) just need to remove the flywheel to mount the engine on the stand. I'd rather not use another motor that I can't be sure of, so ill try stripping this down further and see if i can't figure out whats causing it to be so tight, still can't turn it over by hand even with the clutch off. Aside from that I've already invested in new gaskets etc. Any tips would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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