lexsmaz

Looks like you have done a nice job, but as you have ground the welds flat on the outside i hope you have put plates up inside against the welded in section as grinding off the welds on the outside so it all looks nice & smooth is not a real good idea as it takes a lot of the strength away from the welds, I can see you have a plate on the very bottom which is good but also as mentioned it should be plated inside or on top too ..

I rang channel 10 yesterday & asked what's the go with the delayed high lights broadcasts at times & they said it was due their contract not allowing full live broad casts all the time & they gave me some BS saying it was due to Foxtel having the main contract .. I Voiced my disapproval & mentioned that here was no way they would get away with that if it was footy related & that it sounded very coincidental !! as there was no issues when it was with 7..

Not sure on the specifics of an all wheel drive corolla, but I would be wary of the k's as they are really low for the year of the car, if its a one owner little old lady then maybe it's genuine ??? other wise I would doubt it .. As with all cars check the coolant condition & colour & engine oil sludge build up inside the rocker cover evident from the oil filler cap, caused by lack of oil changes & check for CV noise on full lock turns under power etc etc ..

Don't forget to remove the console & then remove the rubber sealing boots so you can get to the gear lever 4 sandwich plate bolts & undo them & remove the gear stick .. Its fairly straight forward the whole procedure, but if you have never done anything mechanical before best probably buy a workshop manual first too & read it & possibly buy a torque wrench too, so you don't end up snapping pressure plate bolts etc, the need to buy a torque wrench sort of depends on your feel too as some people have good feel for when tightening up bolts & others are just heavy handed & snap / strip every thing they touch .. If you end up removing the flywheel it should always be tightened up using a torque wrench & not just done up FT ( ʞ©$ɟing tight ) some people don't but use one but its not good practise ..

If you have 18 degrees initial advance plus the mechanical advance of the weights you are ending up with a fair bit of advance, assuming that you have checked to make sure the mechanical advance is working correctly it could be getting to much total advance ? Not having vacuum advance is not going to effect the total advance at wide open throttle as the vacuum advance unit will not put in any more advance then anyway, as its only there to aid fuel economy at light throttle & low down light throttle driveabilty & once you get into wide open throttle stuff even if it was there it wouldn't be putting in any more advance .. I would be looking at fuel delivery as it could be running lean up top, best way is to put a sniffer up the pipe or fit a wide band sensor into the exhaust or do a plug read as other wise you are only guessing .. I don't know much about 5k's so my question is what RPM will they pull strongly to in stock form & if you are below that range look at what you have added to the motor as to the possible cause not the factory stuff that has always been there ..

As altezza said it has been jammed in the wrong way around or is a wrong globe, as a bad earth or no earth will make the light very dull or not work at all, but will definitely never make it brighter so it has to be the globe or the wires are crossed over for that light globe, pretty unusual for the wires to be crossed over though unless you have been playing with them recently..

Take the old KE10 radiator down to a radiator place & they pull a end tank off & then ream through each tube to clean out the crud that's there, as unless you are racing the car i'm sure the original radiator will probably cope well enough & as you said its definitely not worth putting something in like the commodore radiator that is designed to keep a 3.8 litre engine cool & then use it on a 1.5 litre motor ..

What's wrong with the original radiator & what is the issue, if its over heating I would be looking at possibly a blocked radiator or thermostat faulty or engine reasons & not looking at upgrading things, just fix what's there & just make sure everything is working properly, I have never owned a KE10 but a mate had one years ago & he used to thrash the shit out of it & it was stock & he never had over heating issues, used to go well it was about as quick off the lights up to 60 - 70kmh as my old GT Cortina ..

You wont have power wires running to the fuel level sender as they generally run an exposed potentiometer so not a good thing to run power through with fuel & vapours there, they just work off a return earth .. I'm not sure why it has 2 wires, one will be the earth feedback for the gauge to work & the other possibly a earth wire that will earth the tank sender unit itself, do you have a picture you can put up .. Just had a thought if it has a low fuel level light, that will be the second wire, also a earth wire, you can earth a wire out at a time just for a short period & see wether the light comes on or the gauge rises ..

Get some camber top plates, as welded bottom arms wont be Road Worthy ..

The fuel cut off wire wont finish down there & not sure if a KE70 has a fuel cut off ?? Read my little blog to see which wire as i have mentioned what to do / check for & as far as joining the wires together its the same wires you would us for the ballast resistor so same checking method, its definitely the far right one & possibly the black one ? but check for power first though on the other twin wire plug .. Regards .. Rob ..

They should be plugged into each end of that white ceramic block pictured in the back of your picture, its called a Ballast resistor, but I'm guessing it might have died hence why they were joined together, you can join them back together to get it up your drive etc, but don't run it for long as it will burn out the points & also your coil & its not cutting the fuel supply its the power for the coil that is being cut off due to the ballast resistor not connected ... Doesn't matter which end of the ballast resistor is plugged into which wire just plug it into which ever I easiest for the wire to stretch to .. Just noticed there were 3 wires in your hand, I'm talking about the far white one to the right & possibly the other white coloured plug but as there is 2 wires on that plug you will need to turn on your ignition & see which wire out of the 2 on that plug has power & if neither has power try the black plug & once you find a power wire turn off the key & make sure the power is cut too ..

As Clapped said its fine to remove it but don't drive with it out as you could loose a windscreen !! & as you probably know they were originally a chrome colour insert & fade / bleach out over time ..

A cracked diaphragm in the brake booster can cause a car to run lean but usually only happens when you have your foot is held down on the brake pedal as the diaphragm is then in a stretched state, which will then open up the cracks in it if it's faulty & usually you will hear a hissing sound at the same time you have your foot held down on the brake pedal if the Booster is faulty & the engine idle will change too, if you think its sucking in air all the time listen around the booster with the car running & listen for any hissing sound & if still in doubt remove & plug the vacuum line to the booster from the manifold & see if the car idles better .. Pumping the brakes quickly is normal for it to effect the idle of most cars as it introduces air into the inlet manifold from the brake booster as it cycles .. The best way to test the brake booster is to turn off the car & pump the brake pedal many times & then hold your foot down hard on the brake pedal & then start up the car & If the pedal drops down its working fine .. From the comments you made about your booster I would say its sounds to be ok ..

Are you talking about an aftermarket fuel tank that sits inside the boot, or modifying your KE70 fuel tank, you can get a radiator place or such to cut open the top of your tank & weld in a swirl pot & fit a in tank hanger bracket & top cover plate etc, if you don't want to go that way I'm pretty sure the JDM AE86 tank fits in as a replacement tank & will have an internal pump & swirl pot etc which is what you want / need for EFI set up ..