If you have it open I would be checking anything and everything.

Will I be able to take out the cam with the head in?

Can you as long as you can get the lifters out.

Will I be able to take out the cam with the head in?

 

Yes-Rocker gear off, pushrods out, then lifters out as tasRx said. Radiator out & crank pulley off, that can be difficult. Then timing chain cover off, timing chain and cam gear off, and finally cam out. UNLESS you can't remove it with the oil pump and dizzy in place, as they drive off the cam.

 

Anyway, its a pain unless the motor is on the bench.

 

Now, the movement you felt..

 

The gap they had was on the direction of engine, along the crank

That is the 'end float' in the crank and is controlled by the thrust bearing in the middle web, part of the main bearing there. It keeps the cranks in place when you push the clutch down.

 

Measure the end float first up. The crank movement is between 0.04mm to 0.24mm with a maximum of 0.3mm. Easy to check with feeler gauges at that center thrust bearing.

 

Then I reckon you should pop the main bearing shells out and check them. You can measure their clearances with Plastigauge too. If all the bearings have correct clearances then your low oil pressure is from somewhere else and you can keep chasing it.

Oh yeah, dizzy does need to come out too

Hum makes sense, you guys are a great help!

Another question, I have 3 oil pumps and I was told to immerse them in oil and with an electric drill make them work at an equal RPM and see which one throws oil further, the one who does it is the one I should install.

Can you confirm or deny this?

haha! Nice story!

 

I don't know if it works or not, but I think you won't see 5psi difference! You will end up with a big mess though.

 

The oil pumps have specs listed, both clearance around the tips and end plate float. Pop them apart first and look for grooves worn into the tips and the plate from dirt in the oil, and then measure them with feeler gauges.

 

Outer rotor to body 0.10-0.16mm

Inner rotor tip to outer rotor 0.04-0.16mm

Rotor endfloat across body 0.03-0.09mm

You should do the oil pump test. In the kitchen sink! And film it. And keep filming when your wife/mother/partner finds the aftermath.

About the oil pump, is it a good idea to add a washer to the oil pump? And what thickness shall it have?

 

 

Problem found?

Big ends look like they've been replaced.

 

Mains look worn right out.

 

Is that what you see?

 

If so, get the crank measured and cleaned, and if its not worn then fit new bearings and away you go. If you don't get it cleaned the tar on the edges may sieze the new bearings... had it happen to me!

 

Oil pump washer, about 3mm. I don't think its important.

Yep big ends were replaced!

Crank has scratches, I think it will need to be worked and new measure bearings need to be fitted.

Update on this, crank had scratches as I said, and also rod journals 1 and 4 were worn when comparing with 2 and 3.

All regrounded to 0.10 and new bearings fitted.

Hope this issue is solved

I'll post again when ready

Thanks to all!

There was this thing I read about the oil feed for the hydraulic lifters needing to be blocked or restricted when using solid or aftermarket lifters in a 5k, to keep good oil pressure.

Word is, you remove the grub screw on the dizzy side of the block to do this.

I tried to remove the grub from my spare block but she's in good and is now just rounded out.

I'm still with hydraulic GJM!