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KE30 troubles


Peter52
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So i'm very new to the car scene and thought that an old corolla is both cool and a good car to start with due to the simplistic engine, i'm learning as i go.

Anyway I bought a 1976 ke30 a few weeks ago in very rough condition but it was running when i bought it however i cannot get it starting now, it will cranks but no ignition. I figured it had to do with the distributor and ended up replacing it but the engine still does not start. So following the rule of "all you need to start the engine is a spark, compression and air/fuel mixture" i think it may be something to do with the fuel side of things as when it cranks you can here the compression of the pistons (and I've already replaced the dizzy), any idea what could be wrong?

It's a 3k 1.2L engine, as far as i can tell its all stock other than the dizzy and coil

 

Thanks in advance!

my corolla.jpg

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Hi Peter,

Unfortunately, it may have been the distributor, but if you changed it over, & didn't get the replacement one inserted correctly, with timing right, it will still not start.   Are you sure the timing of the replacement dizzy is correct ?  Turn the engine over slowly by hand with a 19mm spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley, until the timing "nich" on the cranshaft pulley lines up with the 0 deg timing mark on the timing chain case.  Then carefully remove the dizzy cap & see if the rotor is pointing towards the cap point where either No 1, or No 4 spark plug lead is connected. If the rotor does not line up with either, then the dizzy has been fitted incorrectly, & therefore should be taken out, & reinserted.  There are plenty of instructions on this website, how to fit & time a dizzy properly.  If it does line up, it could still be out 180 deg on the dizzy.  You can correct this temporarily, by moving all the leads around the dizzy cap 180 deg.

I'm presuming you have measured  +12V at the positive terminal of the coil with the ignition turned on.  If not, it could be an open circuit coil ballast resistor.

I would also suggest removing all spark plugs & inspecting them.  Whilst out, undo the union of the incoming fuel line into the carby, & turn the engine over with the starter motor.  If fuel comes out around the loose union, then there is fuel available & the pump is working.

While the dizzy cap is off, ensure the points are opening, when turned over by hand.

Try those suggestions & if it still doesn't work, then let us know the results of my suggestions, & we'll see if we can't narrow it down at least to either fuel or ignition.

Cheers  Banjo.

Edited by Banjo
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2 hours ago, Banjo said:

Hi Peter,

Unfortunately, it may have been the distributor, but if you changed it over, & didn't get the replacement one inserted correctly, with timing right, it will still not start.   Are you sure the timing of the replacement dizzy is correct ?  Turn the engine over slowly by hand with a 19mm spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley, until the timing "nich" on the cranshaft pulley lines up with the 0 deg timing mark on the timing chain case.  Then carefully remove the dizzy cap & see if the rotor is pointing towards the cap point where either No 1, or No 4 spark plug lead is connected. If the rotor does not line up with either, then the dizzy has been fitted incorrectly, & therefore should be taken out, & reinserted.  There are plenty of instructions on this website, how to fit & time a dizzy properly.  If it does line up, it could still be out 180 deg on the dizzy.  You can correct this temporarily, by moving all the leads around the dizzy cap 180 deg.

I'm presuming you have measured  +12V at the positive terminal of the coil with the ignition turned on.  If not, it could be an open circuit coil ballast resistor.

I would also suggest removing all spark plugs & inspecting them.  Whilst out, undo the union of the incoming fuel line into the carby, & turn the engine over with the starter motor.  If fuel comes out around the loose union, then there is fuel available & the pump is working.

While the dizzy cap is off, ensure the points are opening, when turned over by hand.

Try those suggestions & if it still doesn't work, then let us know the results of my suggestions, & we'll see if we can't narrow it down at least to either fuel or ignition.

Cheers  Banjo.

Thanks Banjo, I installed the distributor a couple of days ago and made sure to line the rotor up with the first piston at TDC so as far as that goes I think its lined up, however i will try your suggestion and if its not then reinstall it. the spark plugs should all be fine as i replaced them recently.
I haven't measured the voltage on the coil, I assumed it was fine as i know the spark plugs are igniting. Also, the previous owner has put in an aftermarket coil and completely bypassed the ballast resistor.
I'll try that all and get back to you

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Bypassing the resister isn't a good idea if it's fully stock, could fry the dizzy and all sorts. Also, as silly as this sounds check your fuses, esp your "engine" it happened to me and sadly took about 4 months to realize it was that. Anyways good luck! 

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12 hours ago, SloRolla said:

Bypassing the resister isn't a good idea if it's fully stock, could fry the dizzy and all sorts. Also, as silly as this sounds check your fuses, esp your "engine" it happened to me and sadly took about 4 months to realize it was that. Anyways good luck! 

Thanks SloRolla, I have checked the fuses and all look good. I'll try and find a wiring diagram for my engine to hook the ballast resistor up

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Hi Peter,

             In your response you said . . . .

Quote

I haven't measured the voltage on the coil, I assumed it was fine as i know the spark plugs are igniting.

How did you determine the spark plugs were igniting ?  Was it trying to start ? (Spasmotic combustion) Or did you remove spark plugs and just connect them to the leads, with the spark plug base grounded ?

Cheers Banjo

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1 hour ago, Banjo said:

Hi Peter,

             In your response you said . . . .

How did you determine the spark plugs were igniting ?  Was it trying to start ? (Spasmotic combustion) Or did you remove spark plugs and just connect them to the leads, with the spark plug base grounded ?

Cheers Banjo

I took the spark plugs out (connected to the leads) and examined them while the engine was cranking, all 4 were sparking

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Yea, seeing as it's the original pump it's probably pretty tired. The Fuelmiser ones are pretty good, I've got one. No problems yet


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FPM-044B-Fuelmiser-Mechanical-Fuel-Pump-Toyota-Corolla-3K-4K-5K-KE-Series-/281288797503?hash=item417e1e6d3f:g:U6oAAOSwo4pYI7bv
 

Edited by SloRolla
adding info
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i have an electronic pump still located in the engine bay and sometimes have this issue because of ethanol content.
What sort of fuel are you running?

E85(common over east) will effectively start giving vapour lock issues when the fuel is more than 4 weeks old. Fuel pump may be fine.
 

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