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Motor Quesion


Teddy

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Hey all

 

Well, a popular question that every 1 asks (ive asked it) is "what can i do 2 my motor to make it fast".

 

I'm not going to ask that, most of u know by now my views on my 4k :) - Anwyay this is my question. What can you do to a motor to get better fuel consumtion out of it? i know the basics such as don't drive it hard, (not that i do), don't rev it (that either) etc.

 

Now, another part to this question is slightly differnt, i was talking to ben about it, and a bit to med_man yesterday, but what would u recomend if i said "i want a bit more power for going up hills from my stock 4k" - ben has said "longer intake runners". Does any 1 else have somthing to add to this?

 

Thanks 4 ure views, any opinions welcomed :)

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apart from making sure everything is at its proper state of tune (rebuilt and tuned carburettor, reconditioned distributor, tappets set correctly, timing chain not worn, no huge amount of piston blowby) i personally think by far the best economy device you can fit is a vacuum gauge

 

even a little one from supercheap will have something like idle/drive/fair/poor vacuum states, and you control your right foot to try to keep the gauge as close to drive as possible when driving, as manifold vacuum changes as you depress the accelerator to open the throttle butterflies

 

making your car lighter will improve things, as you need to use less power to move less mass. making your car more powerful within reason also helps, as you use less throttle to make the same amount of power, hence less fuel, this applies mostly to things like exhaust and ignition timing. i suspect going up to a sprinter-spec cam (18/58) would make the car more driveable with a help to fuel economy at most driving speeds

 

that being said, i get just under 10L/100km out of my 4k, and that's driving like i usually do (bit of a hoon, like snapchanges). with my well tuned stock 3k i could get about 7.4L/100km

 

yes, longer intake runners will give you more torque, but reduce throttle response (as the air has a longer space to travel between the throttle butterfly and the engine) and restrict top end power. longer extractors usually also improve power at lower rpm, but will make power worse elsewhere in the rev range. you can definately see this more in rotary engines, extractors that join under the passenger seat or even just before the diff aren't uncommon for street rotors. i think most corolla aftermarket extractors are tuned length for about 5500rpm, that's when my old genies used to come on resonance, you could hear it change from BAAH to HUMM

 

rule number one of engineering: everything's a tradeoff

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Ahh ok - So, how excatly do u get ure motor in the 'proper state of tune'

- is this a job for the dyno dudes?

 

Carbie Kitted - Sounds good to me ;)

thermostat - tick

vacume gauge - tick

sprinter-spec cam (18/58) - any idea how much this would set me back?

Coil - what excatly is this?

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apart from making sure everything is at its proper state of tune (rebuilt and tuned carburettor, reconditioned distributor, tappets set correctly, timing chain not worn, no huge amount of piston blowby)

^^^ read

 

i wouldnt bother getting a sprinter cam ground, if you had one lying around and could put it in for nothing then it would be worth it. if you're going to spend money, get that tighe cam that's 20/60 instead, more torque without too much of a fuel hit, you'll get alot more enjoyment out of it. the smaller cams like the sprinter one are more for 3Ks

 

coil is ignition coil. bosch gt40 is a good step if you're keeping your points. jaycar hei is a cheap way to get big sparks (but doesnt work with the gt40). i'm eventually going to get an MSD 6a and blaster 2 coil, yeah heah ;)

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i know the basics such as don't drive it hard, (not that i do), don't rev it (that either) etc

constant hard driving and big revs will use excessive fuel, and probably shag your motor out quicker as well

 

but to a point, during non-highway driving you're better to keep revs a little bit higher than cruise, as you place less load difference on the engine when you do need to make power during normal driving, such as taking corners or just changing your speed, so you use less fuel and less throttle to change the amount of power you're making. it's better to use more revs and less throttle than vice versa

 

an engine is most efficient at what. say you use 5 units of fuel to make 4 units of power, that's good efficiency. at lower throttle you might be using 2 units of fuel to make 1 unit of power. your efficiency is lower, but you're still using less fuel

 

you should also give an engine a good rev every now and then, to clear out some of the carbony shit that builds up in the combustion chamber. everyone's heard the story of the old man who takes his corolla into the mechanic because it's running rough, the boys take it for a big rpm flog around the block a couple of times to clear it out and it works fine

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teddy....you could do it yourself.....don't be afraid to rev your engine....as long you don't go stupid it should be fine.....set a mental rev limit for yourself and don't go past it.....simple......my mental rev limit (remember, fully worked 5K) is about 7500rpm....after 8000rpm my tacho starts going around the clock again....so make yours around 5500 - (maybe 6000).....simple......

 

(no offence to nick or justin intented)

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i had my 4k up to 8200rpm on the weekend, still haven't hit valve bounce! i don't really have the nuts (nor desire to spend money getting another block bored and rebuilding my internals in that) to take it further

 

doing some research into piston speed lately, at those revs, the slugs were doing about 3900 feet per minute, which is well beyond the time for an upgraded crank and forged pistons, which i don't have ;) following some general rules-of-thumb, you shouldn't rev a 4k past ~7650 with stock crank and cast pistons

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