wouldnt it be the other way? shorter stroke, slower piston speed...thats why the F1 guys use ridiculously small strokes... I thought he'd just bored it out to get it to 1300cc...

that's right, i said it wrong

 

shorter stroke means a higher piston speed rpm limit as there is slower overall piston speed

For reference, I have a 4K crank in my little 3K. It would have to be a hell overbore to get 1360cc out of a 3K. :)

 

Stops reving somewhere past 8500. Tacho stops there. ;)

 

R

stroked 3K...interesting....

 

I was planning on investigating this when I pulled my 3K out....

oh so its the usual 3k stroker trick, 4k crank, 4k rods, 77mm charade pistons. you'd need to dummy assemble and measure piston-deck clearance, grind out an oversize head gasket, i think you'd end up with a really nice quench area (into the head gasket but not into the head). you can get those pistons new thru acl up to 060 over, that would be one hell of an oversize 4k (73x79.4mm = 1446cc) ;) get a few spare blocks bored to suit ay :)

 

kinda like a datsun L18, you fit 2.4 navara crank and rods, 060 300zx pistons and end up with a 100 overbore plus massive stroke! how much torque would that have!!!

 

the tosco 3k was 160 thou over, 66x79mm = 1295cc. i asked bill sherwood where to get those pistons when i was building my motor, but eventually decided against it. single ring + oil ring, short skirt race piston, not exactly long lasting street material

some old racing guys down here used to build really tough K motors, they had a couple of 1500cc 4Ks at one point, but they didn't last very long :) they've moved on to building 4a and 3s turbo motors now. the ke55 the dude's missus used to get around in, is now owned by some young kenny in my town, tough 5K with holden six valves and aisan twincarbs. i want a race ;)

we really need to start scouring the ACL catalog for nice oversized pistons (i.e. over 60thou over)

well

motor failure today :\

the engine is really f@$ked now, run like a kangaroo jumps if you know what i mean

well, that only happend 2 times today, just stopped the engine, turned on the hazzard button and turned over to the side of the road

seems the cable between the coil and the thingy connected to the other things on the engine, 4 pieces with 1 cable to the thing that splits it or something... what is this named on english? ( sorry, I just don't know the word :\ ) was broken, the car accelerate stops accelerate stop and so on until i stop it.

and I only run the engine at normal rpm ( about 3000rpm, 3gear in 60km/h ) and 2nd gear in 40 or something

when this happend, the oil lamp was red, but I had enough oil

the cable i meantion was black, a friend of mine told me over phone that the cable became black when it need to be changed? strange?

any tips of what the problem can be?

 

the car works fine for now, but I don't know how long that will be, I just changed the cable..

but it's strange sound from the engine, maybe because I rev'd too hard? about 6000rpm and its a default 4k with no modefications

 

when the car was acting like a kangaroo it wouldn't start again, it sounded like the battery was flat except it wasnt..

distributor is the word your looking for...

Rob: You need one of those monster-tacho 15K RPM with big fulli sik shiftlight things :)

Head is slightly counterbored 1.5mm to get adequate compression 10.9:1. the pistons are shaved slightly,too. 78mm pistons. Mine has whatever are the longer rods are, too. You also need to scallop your bores so the crank will swing. A slight nudge to the sump is also good. ARP 327 Chev rod bolts to hold it together. Its all a bit time consuming, better to start with a 4k. All equals to 1359.9cc. :)

you don't happen to have the jig to put the 327 rod bolts in do you??

Bob the Builder did mine. That's why it's held together for two years!!

How do you know the engine valve bounce?

have a look at a few different rods ben, K motor rod bolts are already about the size of 350/351 rod bolts. bigger than 304/308, smaller than 454. unless you're going to be taking your engine to big (7500+) rpm for several years in a row (and it takes about 3 years to kill a K motor with stock rod bolts) i don't think it's necessary. that being said, i do have a jig to put a 4k (i think?) rod in so you can fit bigger rod bolts, i'll lend it to you if you get around to building a tough 4/5k :)