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So I've recently become extremely lucky in finding a very clean ADM ae86, It does however come with a 4ac. My plan is to eventually engine swap it but I was looking for more power than a standard 4age (If this came with a 4age i'd 100% keep it with the 4age, but since it comes with a 4ac I feel less guilty about swapping it)I've put together a small port 16v 4age in a ke70 (sitting around 120whp) and that thing was wicked fun but I've been bit by the power bug. My main question is should I swap in a gen 5 beams (eventually getting ITBs) or turbo a 4agze, my main ballpark power figure is around 200-250whp and yes I know most beams tend to already come stock 200ish but what would be more cost effective? getting a turbo 4agze to 250whp or a beams to 250whp (staying NA), I'm not poor but I'm also not drowning in cash, I have around a 10k budget and plan to do most of the work myself besides the wiring and tuning as Ive had engine swap experience already. The main purpose of the car is to be a semi daily (2-3 times a week) and track is 3-4 times a year. This will not be a DRIFT specific car but I would like to take it the occasional event for some fun. Ive heard of some dirty 4agze turbos hitting the 300-400hp mark so I'm wondering what it would take for hit 250, also ive heard some cases of beams hitting 240ish with just itbs so I'm very conflicted ahah, If you were in my position already with a car and a 10k budget which of the 2 options would you consider (I've got my heart set on a 4 cylinder Toyota engine so any other engine swaps Id rather stay away from such as sr20s, v6s and v8s) Again I know I'm not being very specific on power but I'd be fine with just 200 flat whp but if there is room in the budget getting between 200 and 250 I'd do it. Thanks for taking your time to read I've also attached a photo of the car ahah

Welcome back mate.

Damn thats a clean looking ae86. not many left like that.

Here is the wiring diagram, if anyone wants to wire up a thermo-fan & a thermo-switch to their Rolla. I know a thermo-switch is quite capable of switching the radiator fan motor directly, but I like to use a 30A auto relay, so that the thermo-switch contacts don't arc, with the inductive switching current of the fan motor. The 3 position switch is not really necessary, & could be dispensed with. I put it in there, for three reasons. 1. So as I experiment with the coolant system whilst I drive, I can simply turn the fan on of off, allowing me to force the coolant temperature up or down. 2. Bypassing the thermo-switch allows you to start the fan early, if you know you are going to be putting a heavy load on the Rolla engine, like doing a hard run up to the Toowoomba or Cunninghams gap hills. 3. If you ever have to do a water crossing, it's nice to have the option to turn the fan OFF completely. The last thing you want, is the fan acting like a boat propellor, & covering your engine bay in water. Cheers Banjo