5K Engine Conversion
This is an article written by Alex Bates for swapping out a 3K (1200cc) in favour of a 5K (1500cc) in a KE15.
Thanks for taking the time to write this Alex.
Parts Required:
1x Toyota 5K engine $550 from a jap importer
Gearbox oil Not much
Engine oil Not much
Oil filter $6.95
New radiator hoses (optional) Cheap
Radiator coolant $10 or so.
Manifold gasket set $12.95 last time I bought one
Engine crane / block & tackle These cost lots - just borrow one!
Clutch Kit (optional) About $110 (standard) or about $200 (h/duty)
1x mate Will cost a carton of beer
1x hammer to hit mate with when he starts complaining.
Clutch centering tool Universal ones are about $20 I think.
Directions For Fitting:
1. Remove all accessories from the 5K engine (i.e. all the factory emissions crap, alternator, manifolding, everything.) also check if there is oil in it. Drain it and remove the filter.
2. Well you should be left with a bare block. Now would be a good time to clean/paint the engine as you wish. If you can’t paint it, you haven’t removed all the accessories! (just put masking tape around where the head starts. It stops dirt/paint getting in the ports and keeps paint off the head)
3. While the paint is drying you might want to drain the engine and gearbox oil.
4. Undo the tailshaft bolts at the diff end.
5. Unplug all the wires to the starter, alternator etc and label them.
6. Remove all the accessories off the engine in your car (we will call it the 3K to make things simple)
7. Unplug the lead from the coil to the dizzy.
8. Remove all the brackets (acc. Cable and choke cable) off the rocker cover and move it all out the way.
9. Take off the bonnet.
10. Remove radiator and radiator support panel. Remove the grille too.
11. Removing the engine is A LOT easier if you leave the gearbox attached.
Well now you should have bugger all left in the engine bay. I don’t think I forgot anything.
12. Now is the time to secure the chain from the engine crane to your 3K. There should be hooks on your engine for this, if not put a couple of manifold bolts in and hook the chain on to them. On the driver’s side of the engine there is a captive bolt right near where the coil is. Attach the chain here too.
13. Undo the bolts on the engine mounts that hold the engine to the chassis.
14. Remove the gearbox crossmember from underneath the car.
15. Lift the engine/gearbox assembly up and forward out of the car through where the radiator sits. You should get a mate to push the car backwards whilst pulling the engine up to make the job easier.
16. You may have problems getting the front of the gearbox over the suspension thingy right behind the engine crossmember. Don’t stress! It really annoyed me too but just keep raising and lowering the engine until it comes froward. You can also get your mate to lift the BACK of the gearbox from under the car so it is a bit easier.
Hopefully you should now have the 3K / gearbox assembly on the floor. You may need to hit your mate with the hammer now and tell him to shut up an do some work.
17. Move the bloody car out the way!
18. Separate the 3K from the gearbox.
19. Remove your clutch from the 3K flywheel.
20. Remove 3K flywheel from the 3K engine. You will need a flat screwdriver to remove the bolt locking thingy (you will understand when you see it). DO NOT LOSE IT!
21. Attach 3K flywheel and locknut thing to the 5K motor. Make sure this is well secured and fitted correctly. Having a flywheel fall off the engine at high revs will not be a pleasant experience. Attach the clutch too.
22. Centre clutch on flywheel and do the bolts up nice and tight (not too tight though!)
23. Attach your gearbox to the 5K engine and the starter to the gearbox.
It may be the next day now but it’s nearly there!
24. Put the engine mounts off the 3K onto the 5K. If the rubber is stuffed, get new ones.
25. Raise the 5K/gearbox assembly into the car the same way you took it out.
26. Attach gearbox crossmember to gearbox and chassis. This can be a real bitch of a job sometimes. Use your jack to lift the gearbox.
27. Re-fit all the accessories off the 3K onto the 5K, which should now be fitted in your car.
28. Turn the ignition over to see if the starter works okay. It is better to fix it now if it needs it than after you fit the manifolds.
29. Fit inlet and exhaust manifolds. Make sure you have got all the old gasket crust off the head before you fit the new one.
30. Hook up the accelerator cable and stuff.
31. Re-fit radiator support panel and radiator and those lovely new hoses (and hose clamps) you bought.
32. Put coolant in the radiator.
33. Anything else that I forgot, connect that stuff too!
34. Attach talishaft.
35. Connect new oil filter.
36. Fill up the engine and gearbox to the correct level with your oils.
37. Take off the radiator cap and let the engine run for a few minutes. This will get rid of any air locks in the cooling system.
38. Go for a slow test drive. Watch the temp gauge and the oil pressure light.
39. Give it a few days before you start nailing the throttle.
Be nice to the gearbox and clutch. If you drive hard, chances are you will do either the clutch or gearbox or diff in a matter of weeks.
You might also want to fit extractors for a bit more power. A 2 inch exhaust is probably as big as you want to go. You could also fit a Weber carb or Sprinter twin carbs too for even more power.
Electronic ignition is standard on most 5K engines but it is up to you if you want to keep the points one or not.
Oh yeah if you are using your dad’s tools / garage remember to clean all the stuff up or he will get quite pissed off. If you spill oil on his nice new cement you’re in big trouble so be very careful or just lay out some big rags on the driveway.
When you lift the engine out, the gearbox will point down at the back and oil will most likely come out. Watch out for this.
Original source : http://kp61.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2873
