Boosted
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Everything posted by Boosted
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Got some parking lights from the ebay seller Ben-89 linked to in the post above. Obviously knock off's, but quality appears to be pretty good. Thanks for the help gents.
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So S1 to S2, the guards are different and the corner lights won't swap ? There was an odd guard on the old car as someone had butchered the hole for the repeater (the one just in front of the door), I thought that might have been the difference between the poverty pack model and the GTi version.
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Cheers Ben-89, but looking for the ones up next to the headlight. Thought they were indicators ? or are they just park lights ? Anyway, looks like that seller you've linked to has what I want, and it seems both of my cars are Series 2 then. Previously I was searching for AE Corolla, not just Corolla. Still be interested to know if the series 1 lights fit into the same spot. Did the series 1 have the repeater indicators in the side of the front guard as well ? Bowler - Thought the Nova was completely different in the front guards, lights and everything ? Photo's I have seen show the bonnet comes a lot further forward and curls down slightly over the front grill.
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Had a search and found a little about the bumper differences between Series 1 and Series 2 Corolla's, but haven't found much more. The car I've currently got is Jun 92 and according to the local Toyota parts interpreter there was a change sometime around mid 91, where the indicators get a different part number. The indicators for my model aren't available in australia and if they were they'd cost ~$160 each. Noice ! So that means we're back to looking at Taiwanese knock-off's or second hand units. So... do the earlier lights fit the later model ? What other differences in headlights and whatever are there ? The other corolla I had was mid 91 as well, so not real sure whether it was before or after the change over, but everything looks the same, just don't want to be caught out by a subtle difference.
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I'm still torn, red matches the previous one and is more race car. But if I went a nice grey and highlight some things black, C pillar grill and such. I'll paint the bonnet Satin black again as well.
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Found 4L of Monza Red (Septone brand) at Supercheap for $100, they also do a silver, more like grey I presume as it's acrylic, not metallic. Now I'm torn as to whether I should paint it Red or Silver, decisions, decisions.
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Hmm.. don't know. The Rio Red was Acrylic (solid colour) from an auto paint shop, mixed on the spot. I also got the Satin black for the bonnet, used a full half litre on that and in places it was still fairly thin, especially if you've gotta polish a bit to get rid of the amateur spray painters mistakes with the gun. $50/Litre would be a lot better though. Maybe I've gotta hunt around. If you drop the flakes out of the metallic colours, does it make it much cheaper ?
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Hey Swampgarage, agree with you on the tyres. Without them it would have rocked, but doubt it would have gone over. I am planning on painting it, mostly because I've got to panel beat a door and the roof is showing signs of surface rust. Was hoping to find a nice silver as it would go fairly close to the 'Ice Green' colour of the new shell.Unfortunately all the silvers are metallic (as is this current green colour apparently ?) and I don't want to be paying those $$. But at the moment, haven't found a light grey colour that goes close, have to check out the auto stores tonight. The previous shell was Rio Red and I panel beated and paint one door about ~1.5-2yrs ago (this projects been on the go for a while) and it was $100/L at that stage. Even if i just do a dodgy colour change, there's gotta be 4L or more of tint in painting the entire car then add sandpaper, bog and primer coats, it start's getting exxy. But if I can't find a suitable grey, might be what it comes down to, at least I could then use the rear hatch from the old one complete (wasn't going to bother swapping the spoiler to this one). Paint was never that flash on the old girl, but it's worse on this one and I'm not going to take an ugly car out to play. It's gotta look half decent.... in the beginning.
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Just thought I'd let those following at home, that the reshell has commenced; And after a few nights work, only the engine is left to remove, hopefully that will come out this Bathurst weekend.
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Photo's; 4AFE And engine mount on my 4AGZE
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So I’m swapping a 4AGZE out of an AE92 Corolla and dropping it into a less bent AE92 that used to have a 4AFE mounted in there. It appears that the 4AGZE was mounted a little dodgily (fits with the rest of the car) and the Right hand side (timing cover) engine mount appears to have been cut off the inside of the guard and this abortion fitted, pics to follow. I’ve done a little bit of research, enough to realize that the ZE installation appears to be dodgy and that I should be able to use a 4AGE mount and drop it into the new shell. Looking up ToyoDIY though, Toyota have different part numbers for the 4AGE mounts and the 4AFE mounts. There are also different part numbers for the bracket that bolts to the engine. I would have thought they were all the same, given they are all based on a 4A block, and some info I found while googling appears to agree with this view, people claiming you can drop a GE into a corolla using the FE mounts. But, thought I’d throw it out there, has anyone else looked closely at this and worked out if there is a real difference in the mounts ? Perhaps someone has a pic of the 4AGE mount and bracket that they can post up. I’ll post some photo’s of the 4AFE mount that I currently have. I’m sure I can make it fit with the FE mount, but if it’s not as strong or whatever then I’ll do it right this time round, rather than having to pull the mount further down the track. As always, any help appreciated.
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Cam timing right ?
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Yeah, he's been fighting the rear, it's still really skaty. It's ended up turning him into that corner a bit sooner than he wanted and it's still sliding in the rear as he's run over one of the tyres used as course markers, that's helped lift it up, the corner was fairly dug up all ready, so it's dug in and over she goes. Still looks good from this end So, my mate owes me a shell (we're already checking options) and I've already contacted some people on here about some other bits to fix it up. Few weekends work and everything will swap over, so not so bad really. Fortunately this was the last hurrah for the season, so bit of a wait till the next event. The real bugger is, I missed out on my last run of the day and I think I might have been up for decent placing, even with a couple of mid-corner spins earlier in the day. Oh well ..... shit happens.
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So... yeah... was hoping this moment was a little bit further away. And yeah, that's me at the start line turning the camera on, so I wasn't driving :bash: :doh:
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Tony Flood is still around and still the man to see for building something quick for a Toyota, but usually only plays with competition motors. Has a regular servicing deal as the 9-5 while the competition cars get built afterhours usually. http://www.floodmotorsport.com.au I am affiliated. Been spannering on his personal competition cars for the last 8yrs or so.
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How do you calibrate the sensor ? Only way I can see it being done is to test along a known one on a dyno session or something like. Is there a simpler way ?
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And just to really blow the thread out on pics. Made this tyre grooving stand to make it easier for grooving tyres. The long acre ones are nice, but pricey and they've gone to this single wheel per corner style now. After using this one, think it would be better to get the long rollers from a material handling joint and just use the two of them. Was going to go that way, but the castors cost me about $25 from Bunnings and meant I didn't have to take time of work in the middle of the day to grab them. Pattern on the tyres was just to try and give them more sweeping ability when sliding sideways, but still retain a fair amount of contact patch when driving straight. Really a compromise until I get another pair of rally tyres. Will see how it goes at the September Khanacross.
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Good to know. You'd be running a fair bit of camber and castor though ?
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Cheers, it should be good. Another quick update, since I'm home slacking today. Got pretty damn warm at the last Khanacross and was originally thinking of Mitsubishi EVO style rear window vents, just for the fun of it, but had one of those cheapy roof vents kicking around, so figured I'd cut a hole in the roof instead. They say measure twice, cut once. I measured many more times than that to be sure with this one. Taped a box inside to catch the swaf as I wasn't about to pull seats and crap our of the way Turned out pretty well. Except for a whole bunch of cutoff wheel dust over the car. I left the masking tape down while I sika-flexed the vent onto the car, then gave it a few minutes to set before removing the masking tape. Avoids messy cleanup of glue around the opening, worked well. Should have thought of this before I did the bonnet scoop.
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Alignment hasn't been right for a little while. Got it done at the shop, but I hadn't got the steering wheel centered to the rack, so needed to sort that out anyway, and since I upgraded the shocks, it got worse. Problem with an unregistered car and no car trailer, means it's just a PITA to get a wheel alignment done. Sure I could get a permit, but raises too many insurance issues for my liking. Car's still pretty simple too, so only thing they can adjust is toe as I don't have adjustable tops or camber pins, so camber and castor are what they are. So, off to the laser cutters and cut out some brackets for a string wheel alignment jig ! Not many pics on the net of how to do this (that I could find) so based it on the one's I've seen up close and used in practice. Made some meaurement errors when I drew up the CAD versions, think the suspension hadn't settled, so needed to modify those, pretty close now. So centered the rack by measurement, centered the steering wheel on the splines (as close as I could get it) and then adjusted the toe with the steering wheel level. Had toe in one side and lots of toe out the other, all sorted to 1mm toe out per side, for 2mm total (rear is set at 0 toe) which seems to be the numbers the rally guys use where they're chasing a bit of nervousness in the car which is what I want for the twisty low speed stuff I play with. Tarmac autokhana next week, so taking the car out for a run, then off to europe for a little holiday and week after I get back, another khanacross. Haven't been out for the last couple of months and all of a sudden it gets hectic.
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Haven't checked up on this recently, so sorry for the late reply. Below is some information I found on wheel studs when I was searching for longer ones. Toyota's a little weird as they seem to have a slightly different knurl diameter to most of the ones you buy off the net. I looked into local supply, but was going to be something stupid like $12/stud and the other toyota models listed above were just a shade short for what I wanted (though in retrospect, probably would have been fine). I ended up getting them off ebay, from a seller in the UK. They said the Knurl diameter was the same as the Toyota, but when they got here, they wouldn't quite fit. Ended up drilling the holes out with I think a 9/16" drill (barely touched the hole) and then they were still damn tight to press in, but were OK. These are the ones I got http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-wheel-studs-extended-20mm-Mr2-Corolla-x20-/290525321086?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a4a8977e from a seller called pcs-uk. Cheap enough, so I was happy. If you want to put longer wheel studs in the front hubs though, it means pressing apart the bearings and replacing them as well, bit of a shit, but not many other options there I'm afraid.
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Just get in there and start undoing bolts ? Or for an even easier way, take it to a mechanic and pay them to do it. Otherwise you'll probably need an engine support bar. Rip off a whole bunch of pieces, hang the engine on the support bar, remove the engine support crossmember and then drop the LHS mount, so that you can pivot the trans below the chassis rail and pull the gearbox straight off. Easy to type, but a real prick to do, especially without a hoist and a fair bit of muscle. If you're trying to do it in your driveway, you're going to need to jack it up a fair way, to be able to get the gearbox out. May even have to release the right hand side mount. And if you've gone that far, depending on your tools, might be easier to forget the engine support bar and hang it all off an engine crane and drop it on the floor, or take the bonnet off and lift it out thru the top, if your engine crane is serious enough/has enough lift. Fairly open ended question that you're asking.
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If you used the steel wheels from a later corolla, or 15" mags from a later corolla, the offset is different by 5mm, meaning 195's will rub on the shock shaft (they do actually clear, but by less than 3mm and tyre flex will result in rubber marks on the shock). As mentioned as well, 65 series are also too tall and will foul with the spring seat. My old shocks had the spring platform 'massaged' with a hammer to provide some clearance (I do not recommend this) I've got 195/50R15's on the TTG Rolla with 15mm spacers (dedicated motorsport car), they give plenty of clearance from the shock strut and still aren't close to the lip on the guard. AE's are always a PITA when trying to fit bigger wheels to the rear, you've got truck loads of room up front by comparison.
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And we have a winner ! (probably) Pulley wears so much that the belt no longer drives on the flanks of the belt properly, may even be running on the base of the pulley if it's worn bad enough. Roughing it up won't help if the belt has worn the groove down, new pulley will be the only way. Should be able to see the polish marks in the bottom of the pulley if it isn't running in the wedge properly.
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That really doesn't tell you much. You need the rocker cover off and check it hasn't spat a rocker arm, or sneezed a valve in the guide or even broken spring. Could be the piston chasing the valve home.
