Boosted

The late corolla had a larger spigot diameter for the disc, is it the same diameter for the wheel though ?

To idle way high and then to just die if you let the clutch out points to a huge vaccuum leak to me, just in what I've come across in the past. I certainly wouldn't be drilling out mixture screws, that could get messy real quick. The polution gear you pulled off didn't have an idle air bypass or something like that. Feeding warm exhaust gas back into the manifold or anything like that. Idle air bypass I've only ever seen on EFI cars, but then the Japs do some pretty complicated stuff with the carbies to try and get a measure of control that most people don't bother with. My experience has told me that it works fien brand new and once it's got some wear/age in it, it's the biggest pile of crud you've ever come across.

Not seen those small cylinders before. The Fitting (with the oring) under the pressure regualtor is your regular gas cylinder connection, a fairly standard connection that all gas cylinders have. A decent welding store whould be able to sell you an adaptor that it will screw into and allow you to screw (? pics a bit unclear) the argon bottle into. The fitting under the flow regulator is just a standard gas connector. Should be able to get a male nipple that will screw onto it, then you just need a short piece of tig gas hose to go between that connector and the connector on the welding machine. They should be able to sell you a couple of regular band clamps for the gas hose, or they might give you clinch fittings that you close up with a pair of sidecutters. The clinch type clamps are a one use only deal and need to be cut off if you want to change it around.

If it's your standard spring perch 'rianwest' is onto it. You'd have to jack the car and remove the wheel, adjust the spring perch then put the wheel back on, but still, you don't need to remove the entire shock. The other way is to find the guard lip to hub centre measurement that you want (could be wheel to guard clearance minus the radius of the wheel) then when jacking the car, place the jack under the lower control arm so that there's still weight on the car. Then with the wheel removed you can easily adjust the spring seat until you get the desired measurement.

Bit more AE centric, but thought it best to tack onto this existing thread. Have been looking at hub centric wheel spacers for the rear of my AE92/3. I want to use 15" steel rims (from a later model corolla) as I need 15's to clear the front brakes, and don't want to use a mix of 15's and 14's from a spare's perspective. I'm also considering buying a set of mags in 15's. The steelies are +45 though I'd probably get the mags in +38. The steelies are ~3mm clear of the strut body. The question is, how far can I go with the offset before a 195 wide wheel will foul with the guard ? Anybody been thru this before :hmm:

Just updating the thread with where I'm at for people seeking in the future. Yet to plumb the system in and give it a trial. After talking to some mates who have built/installed adjustable pedal boxes and doing a bit of research, a 5/8" Front M/Cyl and 3/4" Rear M/Cyl were chosen. I would have liked a 0.7" rear but as I was buying some pretty cheap m/cyl's with integrated reservoir, I didn't have that option. Pedal ratio is 6:1, measured from the centre of the pedal. Standard is under 5:1, so needed to mod the pedal and when I looked at modding the standard pedal box to clear the balance bar, decided it was all too hard and made a new pedal box as well. Think I might have made some measurement errors when I built the box and modded the pedal though as the brake pedal now sits lower than the clutch and the original intention was to have them at the same level. Having said that, can't remember how they were to begin with. Chose a Rally Design balance bar with cable adjuster. I wanted something a bit nicer, like Tilton or AP, but the price difference is just staggering. In Aus, the Tilton balance bar is $200 on it's own with the adjuster adding another $120 or so. Could have got them out of the states cheaper and that was a real consideration until the americans I chose wanted to slug me $90 to ship the damn thing when it's only a small package. Went weeks without getting answers from anyone I was emailing (including Rally Design) and in the end bit the bullet and just ordered one. With adjuster from Rally Design ended up being ~$80 to my door, so can't complain about the price. Quality is a little, meh, but adequate for the role and more than enough for the price. The billet adjuster is nowhere near as nice as the Tilton/AP options, and the adjuster has a huge gap between the nut and the back of the adjuster where it's meant to mount thru the panel. Will obviously need something to thicken things up before mounting in the plastic trim. Look's like it's designed to screw into 16 plate :laff: Haven't bothered plumbing in a pressure adjusting device to the rear as a friend had said he'd had trouble getting enough rear bias with the setup I'm running (though that was in a RWD escort). There are some relatively cheap options around for a complete pedal box that looks like it could be bolted to the end of the booster and retain standard pedal and all of that. The strut brace and engine (supercharged) in my beast made that a no go unfortunately. Otherwise they can be had from Comp Brake for ~$250 incl Cylinders. Because I didn't want to remove the dash and spend a lot of time getting the pedal box right, it has turned out a bit ghetto looking, though I'm sure it will be fine in operation. I also had the self imposed restriction of not wanting to weld plates into the firewall or modify the vehicle substantially to fit it all in (if I trash the shell, everything needs to bolt off), so I did end up with the m/cyl's a little further from the balance bar than I would have liked. The longest pushrod you can buy off the shelf for a Girling style m/cyl is 4-3/4", whereas with my setup I really need 5-1/4". Works better for angularity into the cylinders, but also means I've gotta knock up a custom slightly heavier pushrod to cope with it all. Btw; Rally Design trunnions are threaded 5/16" UNF (one of the questions I didn't get answered till they rocked up) with most pushrods at my local brake shop being M8 thread (and they were still too short anyway). Anyway, will post back when I've got it all rolling and let you know the final outcome. I've since learned from another guy that he just re-plumbed the AE system to the Hydraulic handbrake with a standard front rear circuit (rather than the AE's diagonal setup) and claims the car stops fine (Gravel rally car though). I still feel the adjustable pedal box is worth the effort for the purist though. (The car is to be used for closed course competitions and is not road legal)

Exedy street wise clutches. They do a nice fibre pucked clutch that hooks up nice without having a heavy action or agressive bite like proper race/brass pucked clutches. Distributed thru Adelaide Clutch, but probably one of your local mechanics has a hook up. Or call Adelaide Clutch and ask who's in your area. Be reasonably kind to it and should do the trick nicely. Interested to know how you lost the clutch on a drag, did you just side step the pedal ?

Problem being Ignition only ECU's are rare as rocking horse poop, trust me I've looked. You've got the Megasquirt option which is cheapish, but for a reason, though some people are having success. Spoke to Haltech and they used to do an Igntion Only computer, which would be pretty old now if you could find one. They recommended the E6X before they bought out the new line of ECU's, but even then it was a $1K purchase + maps or tuning. The with the cost of webers, you start to wonder why you don't just buy a set of throttle bodies and move on from the Nostalgic look ? Jaycar do a programmable ignition, but the map resolution ain't greta and it can only work within the limits of the rotor timing with the post in the dizzy cap, about +/- 20º or perhaps less. So ... yeah... options aren't great.

Cheers dude got it sorted anyway, but will send a PM for the photo for future reference anyway.

Dikfore

You could build a motor now with the intention of putting the supercharger on later, but it's not going to be that exciting without boost. According to Wikipedia, the stock compression ratio for a ZE is ~9:1 and the stock boost is ~9psi. For the sort of numbers you're talking about, you're going to need more boost or more compression. Your second problem is going to be rods and pistons. To achieve a compression safe enough to boost, you're going to have to use modded pistons, or original ZE equipment and mill the head. I also thought the ZE's had oil squirters under the pistons to reduce the heat in the piston crown, similar to the turbo motors (but I could have that wrong), so there's a bit of difference between them. I believe the ZE rods are also chunkier to cope with the boost. So if you skimmed the top of the piston, lowered the static compression and ran a bunch more boost (which will chew up the supercharger), you could get your 150kw flywheel. The other option, is to bump the compression over 11:1, get some much bigger cams (~274deg) with a lot more lift and forget the supercharger option. If you just want something that will haul resonably well, stick with what you're doing and it'll be a decent thing, but those numbers are going to be a touch too much.

What wheels do the AE1xx calipers, diameter and offset, fit under ?

Hey all, let's see if I get any answers for this one :hmm: Looking for pics on the exhaust mounting for an AE92 or even 82 corolla. Specifically looking for the mount at or just after the front crossmember, first mount after the flex connection. Mines broken and I'm not sure that it was the original mount regardless. I'm going to fab something up anyway, was mostly looking for inspiration.

I've found it easier to attack all ports at once and keep switching between them. Personally have found it easier to keep port sizes the same that way. Keep away from the short radius, most of your work will be in the top of the port. If it's a race motor, get rid of the guide, it only slows things down. Tuliping the valves can aid flow, most of them are pretty poorly cast around the exposed stem (don't get too excited with 20V valves though) Match porting to the inlet/exhaust gasket is really worthwhile and then match port the manifolds to the gasket as well. I've never seen huge work done on 4AGE or even 3SG(T)E heads they tend to flow pretty well and it's mostly about cleaning them up a bit rather than radical port shape modification. Definitely worth it. If you've spent most of your engine build budget on the head, you'll probably have a pretty decent motor.

It used to be (probably 5-10yrs ago) turbo's came on with a rush and were dogs off boost. Advancements in engine technology have made it possible to have a decent compression ratio so the motor still pulls alright off boost and then change the cam timing so it will take a bunch of boost higher in the rev range. For the same engine capacity and given an unlimited budget, the turbo will spool up and walk away from your NA motor. After that it comes down to running costs and that's even more debateable.

Wow ! They get away with all sorts of stuff in drift cars. Belt mounting is far enough away that the belts should be crossed, loose end should go back thru the buckle and they should be much tighter on the bar. Non sealed battery, not ventilated either and uncovered positive terminal. Here's hoping the scuits picked that up before it raced.

Roughly... 40kg's, if you're talking about the e series boxes with driveshafts. Sure makes the front of a Rolla sit down pretty well.

Would have thought 15W would be too thick and you'd have problems with the lifters bleeding down. Might be fine in the heat but once winter comes could be an issue. 15W is too thick for the Hyundai Excel. If the motor's got a bit of age a fully synthetic 10-60W would work well, otherwise a 10-50W would work. I'd suggest the erratic oil pressure guage is exactly that... an erratic oil pressure guage. Or there's some crap floating around the relief valve of the oil pump.

So after talking to the local brake shop dude, who did some hunting for us, there's apparently only one master cylinder that would bolt up and that's off a really old (GE?) Sigma. Not the answer I was hoping for. He'd suggested ripping out all the proportioning valve cr@pola and then plumb is as per normal from there. Only problem being it would result in a system that if one circuit leaked, everything would be lost and I'd also end up with a lot of rear brake bias that I'd have to tune out. Neither scenario sounded real good to me. So ripped the cylinder off the car, lucky as the rear circlip was broken in two :blinks: After a bit of a measure up and a bit of think about things, I reckon I can machine a plug with a couple of o-rings that will stop all this diagonal braking nonsense and then the cylinder will operate as a regular m/cyl with pressure having to build in the front circuit before the rear's started to work. However, since then a friend has told me that that parts for a true pedal box are not that dear, so if I can figure that little lot out, it might be the better way to go as tuning on the balance bar is usually better than tuning with a 'twiddle' proportioning valve in the rear line. But thought I'd update the thread for those searching in the future. New topic over Here

In my continuing bid to circumvent the AE series diagonal braking and aid in the installation of a Hydraulic handbrake, I've been investigating twin master cylinder pedal boxes with a balance bar. The fabrication shouldn't be a problem and it looks like you can get pre-fabbed balance bars off e-bay for reasonable dollars, so it's all down to pedal lengths, pivot points and actual master cylinder sizes. The standard bore on an AE92 m/cyl is 15/16" (23.8mm) and consulting the TRD bible on AE's, they claim to be using a 7/8" (22.2mm) for the front and a 13/16" (20.6mm) for the rear. And this is some of what isn't making sense to me at the moment. The Grp A Corolla's were using some pretty big 4 piston stuff up front and some nice 2 pots at the rear, but they're using a smaller dia. cylinder than stock and then I presume they're moving the brake pushrod point closer to the pedal pivot to compensate for the loss of the booster, which says to me they must have had alot of brake pedal travel, which doesn't sound good. My rolla's got the larger front disc brakes (off the GTI ?) and is disc at the rear, so looking for advice from people who have gone this way already, mostly about what size cylinders and pedal lengths you've used and what the pedal travel, feel is like.

As per the thread title, anyone got a diagram or photo showing fuse location and what they do ? My fuse box/panel is missing it's lid, so I've got no idea what's what. Pay a bunch of dosh for a Workshop manual and it's got no fuse panel diagrams only wiring diagrams that show no location. I'm tracking an electrical problem and at this stage I'm not getting power from the EFI Main Fuse (10A according to the $AGZE wiring diagrams I have). Just want to check the fuse before moving further upstream, but got no idea where it's hidden. From how I'm reading the engine bay fuse box lid it's not out there, so presuming it's in the interior panel. Happy to be told otherwise.

Nice car dude. What kind of beer geek are you ? Haven't seen you at a West Coast Brewers meeting have I ? :hmm:

I'm fairly sure my mate is using a W series box with 240hp flywheel, so not that far off where you're at. Though I think he's got at least a TRD kit or similar (synchromesh) thru it. The engine's out for rebuild after 10thou K competitive, haven't heard of him having issues with the box. Dog box is a really maintenance intensive piece of kit. Yeah they can handle some serious hp, but everytime you change gear, whether you're gentle or not, you'll be chipping bits off the dogs. Once the dogs get down so far, it's a replacement job. Sliders and gears... Kaching $$!! For a dedicated race car chasing a championship, worth it, but be prepared to pay for it. For a club car, unless the Toyota's your fun car whilst the Lambo's in for a service, I'd forget about it and go with a decent synchromesh kit.

That's exactly the style of m/cyl I want, but I need it to bolt up to the AE92/3 Booster, which is where everything gets a bit muddy. I haven't heard of anyone else doing this yet. I spoke to one at a rally with a coupe, they'd had a mechanic install a Hydraulic handbrake, but they hadn't thought it thru well enough and the car was looking a front and the opposite rear due to the diagonal braking. I haven't caught up with them since to find out how/if they've rectified it. One option is to use a double m/cyl handbrake, but the piping gets VERY messy (and expensive in braid), besides which, one of the courses I want to race at has a clause in their supp regs that basically outlaws diagonal braking. Not sure why they've done that as CAMS don't have an issue with it, but them's the rules I've gotta play by. Maybe I gotta call the local brake shop and see what the deal is, thought someone might have come across this before.

Integral proportioning valve ? and not just a residual line pressure valve ? I'd been told the AE82's used a regular m/cyl that was ported to a little manifold block that contained the proportioning valve and crossover drilling for diagonal braking.