Super Jamie

there's also deck height differences, bore size, crankshaft clearance, sump pattern. the engine mounts are all in the same spot, but inside the blocks are far from the same

my head hurts :D

nup. and its a "special car" so you can't even race it against the AI :D i was fully looking forward to giving the little two stroke some port work and a bigger piston :D

sounds like a japanese gameshow "super happy funtime family wish ok slides!!!" :D

adelaide jap have a 2t-geu at the moment

1886. you win it in the professional world classic car series. it's shit anyway, top speed of like 16km/h or so, tho it can apparently hit 60 on a good downhill. do a lap of your favorite track in it, it's a good way to kill three quarters of an hour

i've got that car, it's slow as f@$k. i'd foot race it!

the hose in the middle of the tappet cover goes into the stock air cleaner, it's a crankcase breather, but being hooked into the air cleaner (not very strong vac source) it doesn't do an awful lot. if you have room, you can put one of those trick little chrome filters on it, i used to have one of these. i recently got a 10mm rubber cap and blocked it off the hose on the end of the tappet cover is for the pcv valve. there is supposed to be a piece of rubber in that pipe that the pcv valve goes into, a hose then goes from the valve, to the sandwich plate between the carb and the inlet manifold. if you've lost this piece of hose, you can use normal 8mm fuel hose. you could also hook up a catch can to this pipe, i'd still have a hose sucking from the sandwich plate to the catch can though i don't recommend running without a pcv system, you pollute your oil really quickly (<500km), and if you leave the hole uncovered it will make a oily mess all over your bonnet and tappet cover the pipe on the tappet cover is part of an early K motor emissions system (i believe -H motors?), it originally connects to a three-pronged valve which you may or may not find still present on the engine block, just rearward of the distributor. the valve vents the front of the crankcase to atmosphere when the engine reaches a certain temp, or when certain vacuum conditions (probably what) exist. don't worry about it, it's a waste of time, block it off. i had one of these on my old 3k, i blocked it off with a piece of fuel hose with a bolt in it. these day's i'd get a classy looking little 6mm rubber cap and put that on there you can see here my 3k with the timing cover hose blocked. i had little foam filters on the tappet cover at this point. big mistake. here is my engine bay at the moment, i'm halfway thru a carb install, so i don't have the pcv hose hooked up to the manifold at the moment, but that will be an easy task

i beg to differ with those last two posts one of my mates has a cannon with 2" inlet and 4" tip, just sitting in a room somewhere. you can YELL in the 2" end, and it comes out the tip quieter than normal talking some cheap mufflers you get are really good copies of more expensive mufflers, some cheap mufflers you get are crap. however, one would hope most expensive brand name mufflers would have good flow characteristics there are sometimes cases where even a tip can help, one magazine did dyno runs with heaps of different exhausts on the same car, on the same day. they found a solid 3kw gain on that certain car, just by putting a tip on that was 1" bigger than the pipe diameter. that doesn't mean it works for every car, but it can work there's a saying that goes "an exhaust is only as good as its first 4 feet" and i couldn't agree more. though any point of restriction reduces the efficiency of the exhaust

just swap the pulleys over then, it'll be fine

yes, get a te71 crossmember and gearbox and tailshaft and diff, bolts in

the single row stock pulleys i have are all about 118mm on both 3k and 4k. i think you could interchange them without any problems what do you rev the engine to? i take mine to 8 grand regularly (actually, almost every time i drive the thing lol) and my water pump is fine, though it is a new one, perhaps an old pump might give way? you could also hunt around the wreckers for a larger pulley with the right offset, or a deeper one with the right belt groove and make a spacer. don't space the engine fan into the radiator :D i'm running a crappy old denso alternator which keeps up charge no problems. if you change to the later model bosch alternator (get top and bottom bracket, wire in, done) you can underdrive it with a sigma alternator pulley. apparently they're a bit more sensitive to big revs

i wouldn't put a bonnet scoop on, it would look silly. cut a hole in the inner guard and run piping down to there if you must i still think it's a waste of time on a stock 4k. even if you do pick up power, it's not going to be at a level you can feel from the "butt dyno". save your efforts for something worthwhile that will actually make a difference, like following justin's nikki carb article

that looks like a nice clean little car. the three-spoke mags actually even kinda suit it. looking forward to some nice sensible going, stopping and handling mods from this :D

i like this idea :D http://web.mit.edu/adorai/timetraveler/ The Time Traveler Convention May 7, 2005, 10:00pm EDT (08 May 2005 02:00:00 UTC) East Campus Courtyard, MIT 42:21:36.025°N, 71:05:16.332°W (42.360007,-071.087870 in decimal degrees)

don't edit my shit

well, isn't that just the biggest case of the pot calling the kettle black :D

ahh that makes sense, thanks :D

true that. though shitty fuel or excess crankcase vapours could cause problems. this happens on old worn 4AGs as they don't have a pcv valve or filter, you can actually wipe the oil out of the intake plenum after it's been sitting overnight

i would think cold air on a stock K motor would be counterproductive. these carbs have pretty shitty mixture anyway, hotter air helps make the mixture atomise better, so you get a better burn. that's part of the reason the stock exhaust manifold attaches to the inlet manifold i know my aisan went HEAPS harder on a hot summer day than a cold winter night. and i doubt that has anything to do with mixture, the tune was nowhere near that precise, i was probably lucky to be getting 10:1

i thought that K motors with aircon have a double crank pulley, one wheel drives water pump and alternator (like normal) and the front drives the aircon compressor i've heard adapting a 4A engine pulley to a K motor isn't hard? any engineering place with a lathe would be able to machine you up a custom pulley, but the block of metal alone would be worth a hundred bucks, never mind the labour, eek!

how does an impact sensor work? obviously you crash and it goes open circuit. but how does it tell the difference between a crash and say, a speed hump at 40mph? how is your oil pressure switch hooked up, just a relay off the idiot light wire? i think the likelihood of me entering a CAMS event any time soon is unlikely, but i'd like to set it up properly from the word go. most racing requirements (bonnet pins on pre-72, fire extinguisher, etc) are a good idea for a normal car anyway

with my aisan, it ran pretty rich at idle. if i drove around normally it would pop and splutter after a few days. a good few 8000rpm runs would clear it right up again

hmm. i'll put it this way, i don't think there's going to be a massive difference. i've never personally driven a gze, but they don't seem to be lacking in throttle response set it up however's easiest. if you have a problem with the pressure banking up or blowing the throttle plates back open, fit a nice quiet plumb-back bosch blow off valve and i reckon she'll be right ideally, design a modular intake setup so it's easy to change the position of the throttle body, and try both :D if you can be bothered making the brackets and the cable for the tps long enough, it would be an interesting comparison

are we talking like, a few minutes after you let off, or a few milliseconds? if it can control the clutch fast enough to switch suckthru, it should be fast enough to switch blowthru