Super Jamie

couldnt find anything. clean it up and look for markings on the sides of the throats, or anywhere on the carb. get a photo looking at the top and bottom

rubbish, you "need" forgies like you "need" a hole in the head. k motors are budget, just use standard pistons. but yes, custom wiseco forgies will set you back $1000... us dollars you'd be better to have a look thru a motorbike forged piston catalog and find something to match. bore 75-77mm (maybe 79 if you like rebuilding motors alot), piston pin height about 36mm, and can be changed to accept 18mm gudgeon pin. then bore the block to suit the pistons. larger pistons will increase compresssion ratio i have a mate who had a T2 and drawthru SU manifold setup, he used to bolt it onto stock wrecker motor 3Ks and run 6psi all day no worries, 8psi occasionally when racing stuff. eventually he wound it up to 10psi and kept throwing legs out of bed you don't need to setup a turbo motor as insanely as you think, you just limit the boost you can run. use a 3k bottom end with flat pistons (cheap and easy to replace) and port a stock 4k-c head to lower compression, but cut into the squish area as little as possible. don't do anything stupid like double up head gaskets or run a spacer plate or copper head gasket. take your cam into a cam shop, say you want a stock grind with like 400 thou lift and really quick ramp rates. i reckon you could run half a bar all day with a setup like that

put a 4k in it

5ks use hydraulic lifters, you probably don't want to put big revs thru them because they "pump up" and stuff up your valve lift and lash. you can convert to holden six lifters, i think they drop straight in. not sure what pushrods to use, maybe 5k maybe 4k you'll also want to keep this in mind when getting your cam ground, as a grind for a hydro lifter is totally different to a grind for a solid lifter measure the dish in those pistons, try to be accurate to within 1cc. use petrol or carby cleaner or oil or metho, and a syringe or burette ben, get a photo of your 5k pistons? don't rev any K motor past 8 on a regular basis, or blocks go bye bye if you want to talk to me more, email me

the throats at the bottom of the carb are 35mm correct? looks like a weber design, but could maybe be a holley? open up the top plate (this is called the air horn) sometimes they have the manufacturer stamped in the float bowl. could also be an old motorcraft i'll go flick thru some carby books and see what i can find J

that would actually lose power with my setup, and i think in general anyway as you'd be sucking out too much intake charge. my exhaust valve opens at 205 degrees, the advertised duration of the cam is 270 degrees. the timing itself is the best grind anyone has found yet for a fast street motor, probably the best there is cos there's not that many left to try after 30 odd years. its torquey down low (20nm more than any other cam i can find) and powerful up high too exhaust valve closing is relative to compression ratio, there would be no point my running a stock cam with 10.1:1 CR in a motor designed for top end power, it would make killer torque though, you could tow a heavy trailer with it! this is also the reason nick could safely run 13:1 in his 4k IF he can design a combustion chamber that doesn't pre-ignite (stock piston shape wouldnt let you run this CR anyway, but its an interesting theory)

k-liners aren't guides, they are like, guide inserts. they make it easier to recondition the valve guide seal when they wear (usually quickly, ie in a drag/race motor) beacuse you don't have to move the guide at all, and hence don't have to recut the valve seat. some people say not to use them, some people do. i personally think they are the bees knees, until your valve guides wear out in 2 million miles, head recos are going to be a heap cheaper stock valves are 37.36mm and 28.98mm this head on a stock 5k bottom end will give you like... 9:1 compression, maybe a little lower depending on what your chambers CC at. go to the chemists and score a few cheap syringes, say a 50cc and 5 or 10cc. measure each chamber as accurately as you can. within 0.3cc is accurate enough (within 0.1cc if you have a medical burette). use petrol or thin oil or inox or something like that, not water that's with a normal head gasket too, not a graphite one like mine (that would make it lower, but be better for heat expansion differential between iron and aluminium, which is what high compression alloy head motors do). you can shave these heads a f@$kload before you hit water jackets, the exact maximum spec is in the tosco manual, which is on stewart ford's website http://drive.to/oldcorollas i have a fairly big (270 degree) cam and my shit idles quite nicely at 800rpm :D ok well its just tough and sorta lumpy sounding, but it smoothes out by 1000. i'm sure you could run 0.400 valvelift with those retainers, that's respectable hmm, 5k with that head, would be one quick little corolla. nice to drive too cos of the torque, even with a stage 2/3 cam. man it needs bigger valves, if you can get decent carbs on the thing (twin downdrafts or twin SUs or twin sidedrafts. whatever they are, you need two of them), the valves are your next big restriction point. i reckon you're robbing yourself of a good 10-15hp with the stock ones

it looks like a reconditioned stock bigport. what does it CC at? has any work been done on the guides or bowls? how many angles on the valve seat? what are the springs? why use the early 3k retainers and seals? you can run higher lift with the later 4k stuff. however this is probably a pain in the ass now, i think you need to fit 4k valve guides too. i don't think your valve measurements are exactly right, they have larger than 37mm inlet valve stock i think your intake ports are a tad too big, but mine are the same :D i like your exhaust ports alot, they're better than mine it's a good start. many of us dream of owning such a fresh bigport head. throw some more money at it. get the valves deshrouded better in the chamber, fit bigger valves with thinner stems, use iron 4k rocker posts not 3k alloy ones, 4k guides and retainers, polish the chambers and the exhaust ports, 3 angle valve job, then get your manifolds matched and the entire intake manifold runner enlarged to match. 600 plus dollars later... what bottom end are you running? what cam?

but i would start with a proper brake bleed. loke by a proper brake shop. if your lines are rusty get them made up, make sure your discs and drums are within spec and youve got enough meat on the pads and shoes none of us have problems with even ke70 brakes and just a stock MC, so i suspect the weakness in your system lies elsewhere

get your brakes bled properly, or get a bigger MC you can fit remote booster kits, ask a brake shop about these or go googling if you want an inline booster you'll have to f@$k around with pedal mounts and pushrod positioning and bolt spacing, the easiness of which all depends on wether or not you have someone with a welder and some metal skills close by

so like, what does everyone do in the small amount of time they aren't either in a corolla, around a corolla, thinking about a corolla or looking at pictures of corollas? i'll start the ball rolling during the day i wear a tie. i work full time for a small business who repair computers for businesses (small and large), as well as contract service work for companies like coles/myer and woolworths, plus fix ATMs and bank hardware. i do a mix of all these things. i usually am on the road, driving around to various places fixing things. i mostly take a new holden combo out and about, my work does have an ae112 seca but my workmate jared usually steals that. yes, my place of employment owns a corolla, and it's because of me :D in my spare time, i live on my own in a 2 bedroom unit (soon to change). i like to listen to music (aussie hiphop, industrial stuff, electronic rubbish). i like to go out and consume large quantities of bourbon. i have a computer i built for my tv which i watch alot of jackass on, plus many car videos (like every episode of initial D, for free) i work on my cars in my garage at my house, where there are many shelves and K motor parts and tools. i also rent a shed about 15 minutes away that's big enough to work on 2 cars comfortably, it also doubles as a cheap spraybooth i own a 1972 ke25 which is becoming the drive car. a 1975 ke35 which is currently a primered shell with a diff and front struts and a wiring loom. a 1975 ke30 that got crashed into and has been used for parts and profit. i am considering getting my hands on a ke70 which has been defected due to chassis damage, for more parts (i love K motors) in the future, i see myself driving a ke25 within a week or two. then i will save money and finish my ke35. at some point i would like to build my tough 4k and get efi going on it

i would very much like to own an ae86 (any color) but i am afraid not. i do however own a ke25 and a ke35 corolla. and a ke30 parts car, and i am considering aquiring a crashed ke70

remember how in the last forum you had all the fun words censored? f@$k shit piss c**t asshole datsun only one of them should be censored, guess which :D

holy shit i didnt have notification turned on for this one, what a laugh to read all of that since my last post

i was just working on my ke25 and the solution to your problem struck me get yourself a big piece of cardboard that says "ENGINE BLOWS SMOKE, CONVERSION DONE BY THIS SHOP, TOLD TO BRING BACK AFTER WARRANTY EXPIRES" then drive your car to the conversion shop, park it outside and chain it (with good expensive mining chain) to something solid and leave your piece of cardboard in the windscreen you will either get your car looked at very quickly or have it towed good luck! i still think your turbo is f@$ked. take your dump pipe off and see if there's oil pouring out of the turbo flange

yeah the chick who owns that car is a good friend of fook and i, we meet up regularly and swap stories and ideas and just for a general chat, as do most of the corolla people around here. i doubt they would want to know about rollaclub either

sounds like someone's f@$ked their turbo to me :D