Super Jamie

andrew, i notice in your signature you have an ST141 with a modified corolla carburettor, this interests me. i assume you have a carbed 3S? why go to such a small carb on such a large motor? what modifications have been done to the carb? what difference did it make? i like st141s. one of my "build every tough car in the world" dreams is an st141 wagon dumped on big chromies or moondiscs, with a lumpy carbed 3S :)

vibrating : also check you don't have a bent tailshaft

hey why doesnt it work :)

yeah there was a bit of play in the steering. the ke25's in similar condition. its a 30 yearold car :) one day i'll get everything replaced and the steering box rebuilt, and it will be a lovely car to turn in as well as go forwards and up hills

wait till you start doing that kinda shit in cars with actual big power, it gets real scary, even when you're in a car behind watching! one of my mates goes nucking futs with his SS commodore ute, sideways lots of smoke bouncing off the limiter sorta action. no fear :)

he's obviously got like, a REALLY worked 7K :)

fooly sick, will you drift it when its done? :) *poke poke*

there needs to be a new word in the english language that is the equivalent of 10,000 "no"s, this is the word i would use to reply to this question :D

no, there is nothing similar between ke30 and ke20, except engine gearbox and (sometimes) diff center that being said, you can fit ke55 doors without a problem

people actually call me super jamie in real life :D other than that, jamie will do OKE250, KE25 with 4K, www.superjamie.net/ke25 previous owns KE35 (fook owns it now) KE30 (grandpa spec sedan, crashed, parted out and cubed) KE10 (unfinished project, parted out and cubed) dream cars KE25 :) RX7 Series 5 Turbo Evo 3/4 Lancer Hilux Minitruck

if you cbf doing a steering box, you definately cbf doing a rack and pinion conversion! the rack bolts to the crossmember, which is different between ke30 and ke70, so you'd need todo chop chop weld weld to your existing crossmember. you might also need to find/make some tie rods that would work, because the ke70 has a larger front track than the ke30 it's not exactly a bolt in job you can adjust your steering box with the little screw on top. loosen the nut and wind the screw in to make the steering box tighter. if you make it too tight, the wheel won't snap back out of corners. to counter this, wind your castor rods as far forward as they will evenly go sometimes having the steering box rebuilt is the only way to go, i imagine whatever it's worth would be pretty worth it once you get your car back and it steers like a gokart :)

yes, or your car will likely be too noisy, some people even run two! don't be worried about quieting down a k motor, they just get deeper and tougher sounding. awesome

last bosch dizzy i scored (still running from matt's ke70) was amusing. the points had actually welded together at some stage, and separated again under operation. i went to inspect the gap and just laughed at this uneven mass of crap causing spark to work. actually i still have them somewhere, i'll try get a photo :)

have a look in my faq for K motor engine capacities http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myt.../comp_ratio.htm have a read of that to learn a little about compression ratios, after reading this: an engine works by igniting atomised fuel in air to make an explosive force to move a piston to rotate a crankshaft. this force then goes thru the flywheel, clutch, drivetrain, tyres, and pushes your car. essentially, the more you can compress that atomised fuel and air, the more power it will make when it explodes. more compression equals more power however there is a limit, based around the camshaft (see "dynamic compression ratio" in the link above) and the actual design of the head. too much compression, and a motor will "detonate" or "pre-ignite" because of the head, which means the air-fuel mixture is exploding before the spark lights it. you can also get the fuel exploding from one side, the spark exploding from one side, and a harsh shock wave happening in the middle, good for destroying pistons as a general rule, in a factory-type motor, you can run a compression ratio about 1/10th the RON number of your fuel. run 98 RON BP Ultimate and you could safely run 10:1 (with proper ignition timing). run 91 RON regular unleaded, and you'd be safer with a motor running 9:1. a more severe camshaft will change this, as the piston moving up on the compression stroke forces some of that air and fuel out of the exhaust valve before it gets compressed (if you understand this sentence, you understand dynamic compression ratio) case in point, to get the most out of my cam, i should be running MAX 10.6:1 compression. nick's ke70 cam is alot more severe, he would need to run 13.5:1 to get the most out of it. that's the difference in the air being force out of the exhaust valve because of the different cam timings. i don't think you'll ever design a combustion chamber good enough to handle 13.5:1 in a K motor. larry endyn (www.theoldone.com) is an old racer in america, he used to build motors that could run 17:1 compression and more! when you force induct a motor, this all changes, because you're forcing more air into it on boost, to raise the dynamic compression again. it depends on how much boost you run. you could probably force 6psi into most regular (9:1ish) factory motors and get away without changing the compression, this will make the car quite quick to drive, because the dynamic compression is still high at low rpm, off boost it would be just like driving a normal car. if you want to wind say a huge 30psi into something, you need a LOW static compression (8:1 or lower) because your dynamic compression gets so high once the turbo/blower starts making boost. this will give you less performance off boost, like driving a lawnmower. it's all a tradeoff is that kind of what you were looking for?

that's terrible fuel economy! i used to get 34mpg out of my stock 3k ke25. "fuel optimisers" are usually a rubbish gimmick, if it costs you nothing, try it, but don't expect miracle results. i would suggest it's more a case of a worn engine, or in need of a proper tune. i also believe an emissions-equipped 4k-c won't be as efficient as, say, the no-emissions 3k i did my testing with

"if you can't find it, grind it"

separate-bellhousing gearboxes are such a silly idea, another reason why everyone should have a tuff 4K :) gearbox leaks suck, oil burns on the exhaust, comes up thru the shifter hole. i've been smelling it driving for over a month now. argh

why is the gearbox leaking out the bellhousing? that would tend to indicate the front seal has gone wouldn't it? you're not really sposed to have oil in there with the friction surfaces of the clutch and all. that being said, another gearbox should solve your problem if the gasket is fairly thin, like an engine gasket, i usually use permatex 3 (non-hardening brown aviation goop). with this stuff you can also use the gasket again if you have to pull it apart. if you're really confident with it, you can use hylomar spray, which will last forever (and its not often a gearbox gets pulled apart) but it's tricky stuff to get to seal properly. i also like permatex black silicon, but i use this more when there is a thick gasket with lots of variances (manifolds) or something flexible that can move (sump, rocker cover), it would probably still leak on a gearbox. whatever you use, be sure to degrease and dry all surfaces first i like to run ~half lucas oil stabiliser in my gearboxes and diff. i also like to run lsd oil because it's usually not friction modified. it makes shifting into first when cold a little hard, but (i hope) doesn't break down as quicker, lasts longer, lubricates better, etc. spose it doesn't matter, both my 5 speeds are pretty shagged out :)

super jamie :)

for a cheap runaround there are several things you can do to give it a tune and make sure it's in prime condition firstly, buy a gregories or haynes manual from ebay. they're usually pretty cheap then you'll learn how to do things like change the oil in your engine, gearbox and diff. rebuild your distributor, rebuild and tune your carburettor, you might give the spark plugs a bit of a clean. it's fairly easy to tidy up the engine bay, paint or polish a few things, make it look like a nice neat car under the bonnet. get some new ignition leads and a new ignition coil if you like to make your car handle well, put new dampers in. ke70 (sedans) have coil springs on all wheels, as well as a 5 link rear end including a panhard bar. they can actually be made to handle quite well for a little early 1980s runabout. you can get lowered springs as well, to lower your car. whenever you do anything with the suspension you'll need a wheel alignment soon you'll be like the rest of us and want to make improvements like a faster engine, interior gadgets (tacho, oil pressure gauge, vac gauge, etc), bigger brakes, fully adjustable suspension, race seats and rollcage :) yay!

burnout time :)