Super Jamie

the same could also be said for a 2T or 3T motor, so you can stick with toyota if you like :) jonny's new 1800cc 3T-G would friggin hammer, quicker than a VR4 galant!

maybe its you getting in my ear all the time about how good datsun rally cars are :) A and L motors are old, cheap, probably easy to work on like a K motor, but larger capacity rocks. if you can get as much power out of a 1300cc 4K as doug is, imagine an L20B worked to the same extent, you'd be unstoppable!

cameron who i bought my car off, used to have a ke30 with an L20 in it, apparently it hammered. it's a good idea, unique and still probably pretty easy to do

from what i've heard, custom IRS is pretty much impossible to get street registered. i personally like the idea of the awd corolla wagon, though i think you'd need to be upgrading to wrx or cosworth running gear if you put a gze behind it, bling bling

tighe 112 - 20/60. it's got something like 425 or 435 thou lift, pretty high but you could still use it with stock 4k valve gear (you'd want at least new stock springs tho)

its not even that, tighe's stage TEN speedway grind has 312 degrees duration too, but it's a 50/82 84/48. 88 degrees inlet valve close give the thing like, TWO crank degrees to compress what little air fuel is left in the cylinder i don't get it either. maybe someone made it because the nsw rta won't let you put a 12a in a ke20/25 and they really REALLY wanted that ported rotor sound in their oldcorolla :)

this makes me think now, if i built another K motor for street, i'd use a slightly milder cam. ivan tighe has a grind (tighe 112) that's a 20/60 with heaps of lift, it still makes a fair bit of power, peaking at 6500rpm, and about 10% more torque than a 25/65, which is already a fairly nice torquey cam to drive around with having a big 7500rpm power peak is fun, but the thing sounds like its going to shake apart above seven, and i don't like holding it at high rpm because of crankcase blowby and oil getting trapped in the head. you should get one of these cams teddy :)

project special k, thats classic :) love it

i keep playing around in dyno2000 trying to make a good motor with that cam, but it just doesn't happen. it's the bloody wierdest grind i've ever seen! even with 13:1, twin 45 sidedrafts, huge valves, huge extractors and superb head porting i can still get mine and doug's to make few more horsepower, noticably more torque and still be streetable but that's only a computer program. every other top-end grind i have closes in the 70 degree range, giving the motor SOME compression i'm so interested to see how different your car feels with the weber and a 25/65 :)

this is getting into pretty complex territory to understand how a cam works, you need to understand how the 4 strokes of a combustion engine work. read these first http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=25288 http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarti.../148_0405_lobe/ cam timing is listed in this order. inlet valve open, inlet valve close, exhaust valve open, exhaust valve close. when there are two timings, assume the cam is mirrored for exhausts. another way of saying "42/88" would be "42/88, 88/42". sometimes you get cams that are slightly different, i recently did a grind for someone that's a "21/61, 63/19" duration is the amount of time, measured in crankshaft degrees, the valves are open for. a higher duration cam makes more power up high, and less down low. a smaller duration cam makes less power up top, but more at lower rpm. nick's cam has about 310 degrees of advertised duration, mine has about 270, stock is like 246. advertised duration is measured usually from when the valve opens, sometimes at .006, sometimes at .004. people think measuring from .050 gives a more accurate idea of a cam's profile, i beg to differ, the entire ramp rate of the lobe makes the difference (ramp rate being how fast the valve opens and closes) overlap is the amount of time both valves are open, a certain amount of this is good, as the vacuum of the exhaust causes more intake charge to be sucked into the cylinder. you don't want too much overlap, or you needlessly suck good intake charge out the exhaust, wasting power and fuel. nick's cam has like 84 degrees of overlap, stock is 32, mine is 50 lift is how high the cam opens the valve, more is better, but you can run into problems with coils binding (the valve springs run out of room to compress) or hitting the valve stem. a good lift for a worked k motor is about .400. i don't know how much you can run before you start needing to change things, but i reckon .450 would be getting close, if not past it also be aware that there is "camlift" and "valvelift". the rockers on these motors open the valves 1.5 times more than the cam pushes them (one end of the rocker is longer than the other), so .100 camlift is .150 valvelift, and so on. this is called having 1.5 ratio rockers. a common performance trick on v8s is to put in 1.6 or greater ratio rockers for more valvelift as for that specific cam, i'm not too good at reading durations at 050, but it drops power everywhere with my engine so i wouldn't use it, there are better profiles out there. it's also overpriced, a grind anywhere will cost you about 100 bucks if not less, and you can get k motor parts for free everywhere

do your exhaust before you start on headwork. full extractors and pipe. because once you have a decent top end on your motor, next step is to change the cam if you put a decent cam in with stock exhaust (or even a decent pipe but the stock manifold) it will be too restrictive and you'll get intake reversion, which is forcing of the intake charge back into the inlet valve. you can spot it because your carby blows a mist of fuel back up with the air filter off, sometimes quite high. stewart has a fairly hefty cam, just a tad above a street cam with his stock inlet manifold, he had intake reversion blowing fuel 15cm above the carby :) suspension, steering, exhaust, headwork, cam, carby. wheels, interior, stereo at any time :S with a modified motor, you want to at least have a tacho and (ELECTRICAL) oil pressure gauge, oil temp is a pretty good idea too. i like driving with a vacuum gauge, to aid in fuel economy. a voltmeter will let you know the condition of your alternator too lots to do, lots to plan, (lots to spend). one at a time, you'll get there :D

so you want a bigport HEAD! thats different then :) much better idea higher compression gives much better performance, and the ports are 10 million times better than the crappy stock ones. you'll actually need to have the combustion chambers ported a bit to lower the compression, bolton is 10.5:1. on an otherwise stock motor with a stock cam, running bp ultimate, i wouldn't go any higher than 9.8:1 you can find them, but they're difficult. even if you got your stock head ported out to bigport sizes it would be worth it

what are you thinking of doing and/or hoping to achieve. this has got me thinking more and more about writing the head porting section of the faq...

the twincarb manifold just has standard size ports so the only reason you'd want it would be for twincarbs, not to specifically suit a ported head. i thought about having the ports in my twincarb manifold taken out to about 30mm, but i think this would weaken the metal too much, two carbs with full float bowls are pretty heavy for soft alloy to be holding up you could probably open the runners in the singlecarb manifold out with a die grinder, a flexible longneck and some heavy belt sanding paper. if you can get access to the tools. and it would take a while and be hard to make your work accurate, as you can't measure inside the curve sadly, if you want a better intake manifold, you're probably going to have to make one honestly i wouldn't bother, even match porting is pretty false economy when you have huge ports and a little manifold. for a k head with standard valves you don't want to enlarge the inlet ports anyway, all the improvement to be had is in the inlet bowls, combustion chamber and exhaust bowls and ports

R motors are the most overengineered toyota motor there is. i personally think they have HEAPS of potential, just nobody can be bothered porting the cast iron head, they're too heavy to stick in corollas and have them handle well. i'd love to see a 18R-G or 22RE modified to the same extent as something like my 4k. it would be a weapon the fastest toyota engined drag car in australia is a ke20 with an 18r-g

actually ke70 standard is 4.11 a higher ratio (4.3, 5.0, etc) gives you more acceleration but lower top speed. it keeps the revs higher in all gears for any given speed a lower ratio (3.9, 3.6, 1.8!) gives you less acceleration, but higher top speed (if your motor has the torque to fight wind at 200km/h). it will keep the revs lower in all gears for any given speed circuit cars use high gears (4.3, 4.5, 5.0) for acceleration. you're probably not going to top out in 5th around say, QR. big yank tank cruisers use low gears (3.6, 2.x, 1.8 with a big block) for fuel economy, because they aren't quick anyway, and because their old v8 motors don't like to rev high. it's not unusual for one of these cars to be doing say, 1400rpm in 5th at 100km/h. that's just off idle in a corolla, because they have fairly gutless motors, you need a high ratio to get any sort of performance out of them. you can really feel the difference even changing down 0.1 of a ratio, my locker's a 4.2 (compared to my open 4.3) and the difference is noticeable a 3.9 would make your car VERY slow. stick with 4.11s. the borg warner diff in ke70s makes ratios very hard to change too. you pretty much have to disassemble the center out thru the housing. the earlier jap diffs are frontloaders, you pop the axles and the bolts holding the center, and it just comes out. you can change a center in about 35 minutes with practice import ke70s (not aussie ones) had a jap diff and little ke30-type drums. i know where one is at a wreckers if you're keen on driving down to lismore to pick it up, apparently the 3.909 center is f@$ked too. personally i wouldn't bother changing it :)

afaik, bigport heads (with water jackets and without) only came with the twincarb manifold, which still has fairly small diameter runners funnily enough they were factory on k-b and 3k-b motors in ke15/17 sprinters, ke20/25 SLs, and i think ke35 SRs (not to be confused with TE27 SR with flares and 2t-g) there was also a 3k-d motor, which i think had standard port head but twincarbs, nobody i know has ever seen one, just read about them in books

call COME Engineering and ask how much do do a one-off block, head, main, and rod casting. considering how expensive their "mass" production v8 stuff is, i don't think you'd be getting much change from like a hundred grand. i love corollas but not even i would spend that on it :S i'd quite like to build a 3k one day, to see how quickly it revs compared to a 4k. i have some 040 pistons and 10+ spare long motors and heads under my mums house, so it would cost me like a valve job, cam grind and a gasket set to do. hmm, hurry and blow up mr freshly-built $2000 4k :)

4 door ke30 wagon/sedan, 4 door ke55 wagon/sedan, 4 door ke70 wagon/sedan i was getting 34mpg (7.4L/100km) out of my 3k before i pulled it out, so they can definately be efficient with good tune

no expense spared 4k? billet alloy block with steel liners, guaranteed to 20000rpm. crossflow formula atlantic head with the biggest cams you could stuff into it, something like 320 degrees duration, huge titanium valves, 4v per cylinder :) fly cut billet pistons. new steel crank, offset to increase stroke, pistons the same diameter as stroke (80mmx80mm?). billet rods and mains. static compression 8 . 5 : 1, overdriven toyota sc14 supercharger, pumping about a conservative 1.5 bar into the donk. head studs, dry sump, jun 3.4kg alloy flywheel (yes they make them for 4k, only $1110). whatever the best motec fuel and ignition computer is, low impedance injectors on custom manifold (it'd have to be for the head), motec cdi spark system put it in a ke10 painted matt grey so it looks like primer, 12" wheels with factory hubcaps and skinny tires good enough? :S

methinks you need to update your signature now :)

i usually try and buy cool things second hand (like springs from rob's old rally car), but that all depends on the people you know and what cars they have for new stuff, i have a mechanic mate who gets me stuff at trade price. anything he can't get, retail from supercheap / repco / aussie auto

acutally i'd leave the front swaybar stock and just put a better rear one on, these cars already have a bit of understeer. nolathane bushes tho :S steering reco would also be a top idea, i dream of having my steering box rebuilt :)

call around van wreckers for a 7k-e setup, you're usually looking at about $300 without computer, that's how much mine was. guys bring in 4k-e setups from america and nz quite often, another source is stewart ford on the oldcorollas yahoo group if your 3k was made after 1972, the unleaded conversion process involves going to the pump and putting unleaded in your car, and thats all :)

now here's where you start asking yourself what you use your car for the most, and how it should be setup. for a basic clean street setup, get something like gas shocks (kyb, pedders) and aftermarket stiffer lower springs (kings, lovells, pedders) and you're set. things like gabriels and monroes are cheaper, but it's a case of you get what you pay for, i think a set of KYBs will last probably twice as long as a set of monroes. pedders are known for making fairly stiff suspension, i know the pedders "comfort" gas in my car are anything but comfortable, but they're definately good and hard :D for a serious race setup, you want to start looking at adjustable things, to suit different tracks and days and to fine tune based on how you drive. koni adjustable shocks, custom made springs. alot of people on the net have fitted different struts to their corollas at this point, for bigger brakes mostly, but that opens up a whole range of different suspension options too. finally, you can go all out and get coilovers like fook's made up, and adjust everything. that's the best, but that isn't cheap! you also find most people with coilovers dial them in to one good setting and use that, sometimes two i personally like a hard front end for steering response, and a softer-but-still-hard rear end to keep the power on the ground. i don't really care about bigger brakes because i am dangerous and irresponsible and i don't have to by law :) (eventually i will get them done, it's just cash). i've got custom 170lb springs and just some old monroe gas shocks for the front (because i'm a poorass and can't afford $135 a front shock KYBs), not in the car yet :D for the back, pedders gas shocks, i'll eventually rebuild the leaves with an extra leaf for stiffness, but you have coils so it's nice and easy :moon: