Super Jamie

nature? you sound like some sort of hippy :P actually it's best to use a hydraulic press designed to do such jobs. last set of bearings my mate pressed onto axles, the bar underneath the press was bending like a motherf@$ker. its amazing the amount of force you need to make them a press fit

it doesnt look like its damaged any metal? where the hell are these panelbeaters getting their prices? bumper from the wreckers $50, taillight from wreckers $25, half an hour to undo a few bolts and mount it all properly

you mean an actual balancer with a counterweight and rubber and everything? sure it's not just the crank pulley? i would have thought if the rotating assembly is balanced it shouldn't need a harmonic balancer? not on a 4 cylinder anyway

you can also oven metal parts. 80c for 15 minutes or so, much like baking on engine enamel so it becomes solvent resistant most places will press bearings onto axles for you for nothing, or next to nothing $5, if you buy the bearings from them so it's worth it for a proper job with a press, you don't f@$kup the bearing so much by bashing it on with a hammer and yes, learning from your mistakes is the best way. especially when you have to fix them yourself :P

not really, its quite simple when you think about it, just drop a fwd front subframe in the back. the rest is all metalworking skills, which is where the real skill is

harmonic balancer? 5ks have them?

yes i found it shortly after posting that. how cool is it :P

that's about the only way to get things done properly, but unfortunately due to skill/tooling/time/space considerations, it's not always possible. for example i can't regrind a valve seat or do a helicoil, press a balljoint or bush into a control arm, press a bearing onto an axle, so i pay people to do these things, and assemble and tune the rest myself do as much as you can, rely on other people as little as possible

hey fookie, whats that video you have of the crazy little british car with the engine in the front and the engine in the back?

try and find videos of the HB cosmo registered in wa with the plate 3ROTOR. i have it on a vcd, the guy complains he can't use full throttle until third gear. he does one takeoff and just keeps on the brakes, it fogs up better than almost any car i've seen. this includes national meets at willowbank

is that the rc car made with pneumatic bits by jd films? it has nightrider music well funny huh

what fook said. i can give you several instances where i or other friends have waited usually around 4 times longer than expected to get results, learn to deal with it it also seems, the friendlier you get with someone who does work for you, the worse the service gets

suzuki released a concept car at the jap motor show a couple of years ago which was a 600cc motorbike motor in a twinseat car made of carbon kevlar, weighed about 500kg from memory and yes, motorbike motors have no torque. to even just start moving normally off a stop, you'd have to slip the clutch at like 9000rpm still, i'd lighten a mini or ke10 or r100 and put a turbo motorbike motor in it for a wicked hillclimb car for those of your on broadband, have a look for a video called "gixxercart", suzuki gsxr motor in a go kart. 115ps, 150kg, drifts like a motherf@$ker!

matt waite from aus.cars made something like this several years ago, he used to go around putting them on cars google news aus.cars "rice citation" and you'll probably find it

well, you use this tool called a "ruler" to measure the base plate of the stock carb, and the base pattern of the weber, and you get a block of alloy about an inch thick and drill and tap 6 holes so all the studs can go in. most factory plates have the middle 2 holes with countersunk recesses for bolt heads, take those 2 studs out of the manifold alltogether. you'll need longer studs for the other stuff too or you could just find a redline dealer and fork over like 70 bucks for an adapter plate. rumor has it you can use a mitsubishi colt throttle wheel with no mods

um yes lets get back to talking about motors now

rough. idle. spelling people! let's see what i can pull out my ass in under a minute - different fuel - clogged idle jet - carburettor idle circuit out of tune - timing out of tune - emissions system broken or out of tune - vacuum leak - head needs recondition - excessive piston ring blowby - timing chain/belt worn

shit, that's quite large. not exactly a "street" cam is it :| i'd want to be running at least 10.5:1 with a cam like that, you could probably even get away with 11 if your chamber design was decent and um, i don't think your brother knows what he's talking about in relation to valvelift. lobe lift is the difference in the highest point of the lobe, and the base circle. this is how much the lifter and pushrod move up and down during valve opening. corollas run a 1.5 ratio rocker, which then opens the valve 1.5 times as much as the pushrod end of the rocker moves. this is why most people's lift figures are larger numbers ie 274 x 1.5 = 411 you are running 0.411 valve lift and i hope to god that's a flat tappet cam

dyno2000 is just an estimation, i doubt you'll ever make the power figures it gives out. it may be spot on for the big blocks it was designed for, not so for smaller motors. through testing, i've found if you allow for 85% error with a K motor, you generally get an accurate figure. my engine allegedly makes 139hp in dyno2000, i can tell you right now that it's not making that much unless you have a penchant for doing line lockies all the time, and flat changing all the time, you're probably not going to harm either a 4 speed or a 5 speed too much. i can show you a ke30 with a worked 4k very similar to mine, which has been given heaps of curry but nothing stupid (like burnouts) and has been running the same K50 for 8 years. that being said, constant hard driving around town will kill second gear, no matter what K gearbox you use you can get k-to-t bellhousings for about $200 ex NZ, ask around on club-k. don't forget you'll have to convert to hydraulic clutch. the k-to-t bellhousing has the slave cylinder on the drivers side, so you won't have exhaust clearance issues at least out of interest, what cam are you running? what are the timing specs? is it a hydraulic or flat tappet cam?

hmm, think that one might be a little too big for the ol 5k :|

wow, you learn something new every day!

there are baffles in the sump to prevent starvation of the oil pickup, but i would think the oil level would rise above this. i will keep in mind to check this out next time i have my sump off (next weekend i hope, maybe tomorrow if its not 42C again). or if you've got a spare sump lying round (i cbf driving to mums house to get one of mine) fill it with 3.7L of liquid and see where the level comes to with 12 degrees advance, my stock 3k was more powerful on Ultimate than regular. i only run Ultimate. optimax might be alright but it doesnt mix with other petroleum based products well. we don't get mobil synergy here but apparently that is THE SHIT as far as pump fuels go. caltex vortex is just, ugh, you may as well fill up with diesel

valve bounce, or as i call it "the carby car rev limiter" saves alot of old motors, my last 3k for a start :laff: but remember new stock valve springs are only $35 a set. if your valve bounce is below like 6500rpm, you should get new springs (fook). seriously tho an aisan carby can't supply that much air anyway, i'd say you couldnt really get one to rev past 7500, tops. i know mines having this problem now :laff: a properly made carbon fibre tailshaft will be stronger and lighter than the original item, and f@$k it will get you massive gran-turismo-style street cred :| and yes, the more you work a K motor, the tougher sounding it gets. the best sound i think comes from angry little hi-comp 3Ks with twin sprinter downdrafts. a decent 4k gets a deeper note, totally different. a 3k is pissed off, a 4k is MAD! i would like to hear your ridiculously large cam nick, get a soundfile? :)

thats right, you want to GET TO 8 but you don't want to STAY THERE i don't think crank lightening matters so much, how much do you take off before you start altering the metal structure either thru heat transfer or force loading? i know i'd prefer a strong crank than a lightened weak one. flywheels are where you should make your lightening. and carbon fibre tailshafts (only $1200!) you can however knife-edge the crank, which will allow it to cut thru the sump oil and reduce splash at high rpm. but then again you want splash because that's how the bores and the underside of the pistons cool. knife edging is really only meant for race motors that spend all day at full song and get rebuilt once a season or whatever. i think a street motor should have a stock crank build your motor like a racecar, and you'll have to rebuild it quick, like a racecar and a well balanced K will rev to 10 and beyond, like cafee's 4K. wouldn't take it there often though :|

thanks fook :D my holley uses a weber choke too