Super Jamie

hey, there's plenty you can do to these motors for a bit of cheap power. the 1200 is called a 3k, the 1300 is called a 4k. whack a 3k head on a 4k and you raise the compression, nice and easy power. you can change the carb for a bigger one, get more air in which means more power. on a stock motor, something like a factory 1600 carb (gemini, datsun, toyota) makes a good mod, or a weber dcd, a dgv is probably too big. you can also use SUs or sidedrafts, but you usually want to pay someone to set these up really properly. run it on bp ultimate (no additives needed for unleaded) and set your ignition timing to 10 or 12. put extractors and a 2" exhaust on it (no bigger). improve your ignition system, lots of people give good reports on transistor coils (ie: bosch gt40), get some nice low resistance ignition leads check out my faq for some info on these cars, welcome to owning an oldcorolla :)

building your own motor is one of the most fun and rewarding things you can ever do. even just basic mods like a 3k head (even a smallport) will make your car alot more fun to drive, without going over the top. as these cars are light, low down torque is a very rewarding experience :) super job, get some good suspension (shocks, springs, nolathane) going and get rid of that bodyroll, your car fill feel heaps quicker and you'll brake better too :D and don't worry, nobody's dreaming days are over, i still wish i had my twincarbs on, rear swaybar kit, decent front suspension, custom rear leaves, msd ignition, blah blah blah :D it never stops

this sounds familar, people always talk about putting all these superfast motors in their car, toymods is full of them "you wait till i get my 20v/gze/turbo" and they end up driving round in something with an exhaust and some big wheels. i'm not saying you're like that, i don't really know you, but when someone starts using the phrases "13b turbo, 4agze, ca18det" in the same sentence, i put my skeptical hat on dude you're only young, you've just started driving. i personally don't think many teenagers have the skill to handle much over 100hp in a car as light as these. and i can remember how much money i just totally wasted when i started doing a car up if i were you, i wouldn't even dream of starting out spending that much money on a car straight up, and getting some ridiculous amount of power that quite frankly, i think is too much when you don't have a whole heap of driving experience. don't worry, we were all young once, i'm not really much better at controlling a sliding car now than i was when i was 16 :) and going from no power (stock old 4k) to lots of power (gze/13bt/etc) is just dangerous i would recommend doing small improvements that are really worth it - such as making your suspension really nice, and upgrading your brakes, do a nice interior and stereo if they are important to you - then do a little bit of work to the original motor, gradually learn to drive your car better as you add more power to it. so you're not going to beat any cars at the lights, who gives a shit, it's about you learning about vehicle modification, not some other guy being pissed cos his car sucks get into the awesome weekend race scene you guys have up there - you are SO LUCKY you have all this awesome car modification going on like, NEXT DOOR, i am well jealous - look and learn at what all sorts of different people are doing. after a while, you'll probably have an idea of what your driving style is like, what matters to you and can direct your several thousand dollars in that direction for a motor and further improvements if required i'm not meaning to bag you ted, far from it, your enthusiasm is excellent and you're going the right way about learning well and not being at all silly about it as most young just-started-driving people are. i can remember being in your shoes, and what i spent on my first ideas, which was so much money for so little gain, and how much trouble i can guarantee you i would have got myself in if i had anything near the power of a force inducted motor. and how i wish now, that i'd done alot of things differently but that's just my 2c, you did ask :D i'll finish with some tips for building a tough corolla: - i think motor is personal preference and bank balance. get any motor built properly for a purpose and it's going to last. you will learn that things like winged sumps and good fuel/spark management are more important than turbos and superchargers. i don't like datsun motors, so i wouldn't get a ca18. sure rotaries are expensive, but they have balls, how many other FACTORY naturally aspirated 1.3L motors do you know of that make 270+hp? (rx8). i like cars that follow a theme - toyota car, toyota motor, thumbs up - your car gets quicker with better suspension. i think suspension is the most rewarding thing about cars, the more power you can put to the ground, the faster you go, without doing a thing to the motor, simple awesome stuff - these cars are verging on *too* light, i know my ke25 is anyway. make any more than ~90hp and you pretty much NEED limited slip to make it worthwhile, or you just do single spinners everywhere (like my car does in the wet, even when i don't want it to!) - do not spend one cent on doing something that requires engineer certification, without first talking to an engineer. just because someone else on the internet (or in real life) did it and has the piece of paper doesn't mean you can do the same thing - always, ALWAYS, have third party property insurance. if you do so many mods to your car that nobody will insure you even for that, you may as well not modify the car. there are plenty of accidents out there that aren't your fault, but you're the "at fault" driver. and you can't avoid them, because thats what they are, accidents, not on-purposes BEST OF LUCK :D

no injector resistance is not polarised

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0102&P=1

i straightened the secondary shaft linkage right out, to get the secondary to open sooner, still giving me just the primary for cruising. f@$k she goes hard with the extra air, i can get the arse to start to step out without even clutching it :D but goddamn how's the fuel usage! no doubt the inavoidable desire to use what all the time might have something to do with that :D a trip to my mates place and back (30km) and a trip to ballina and back (40km) used quarter of a tank of fuel :moon: tho i spose when you've only got a piddly little ke25 tank, its gonna go pretty quick innit need to pull my finger out and rebuild my twincarbs :)

ok like seriously, someone else make a friggin ad banner for their car, get your own ideas ya bums! :)

f@$kin jesus, nice effort! twin webers, she musta chewed some fuel too :) i was also thinkin this would be a cool thing to do. i was actually thinking of acquiring two aisan carbs from a 2T and putting them on the sprinter twincarb manifold flavours: 5k if you're in queensland, 4k if you're in nsw, cos none of us can be bothered engineering our shit :D i'd actually like to build a tough 3k. god knows i have enough parts, and a set of 040 pistons that just need rings :D

http://www.toymods.org.au/sprinter_front_brakes/

you've played with K motors? wicked! what have you done? in what cars? tell us these things! :)

i like this idea, i think i'll copy it :)

yeah its going to have a bit of backlash, it's an old diff center. i've got a fairly fresh center (and shithouse paddock-basher tailshaft/unis) in the 25, i'll see how much play mine has in comparison tonight

wtf? calm down, its not that that handbrake held the car still on your driveway the day you bought it fook, you were there, pulling the handbrake yourself. i also used to park it halfway up lucky's old driveway which was about as steep as yours, so those size drums can definately do it if your diff was so badly f@$ked you couldn't turn a wheel, you wouldnt be able to drive it either, i don't think that's the solution. you'll probably find you've got the car parked in gear and are jacking up one wheel and trying to turn it? try it in neutral. and with both back wheels jacked up if you've got a locker, for obvious reasons. it's gotta be something simple like adjustment. people who understand drums and can explain (well) how to service them are few and far between these days, which sucks i hate drum brakes, i suck at working with them. they're one of the few things i have no hesitation in dropping off to a mechanic and paying a few dollars to have them working just the way i like :)

change fuel consumption much? spose you probably never ran the carb as a progressive? i guess its just a matter of modifying the secondary linkage or making a new one if its not long enough yeah?

normal rear shocks that no doubt have printed on the metal body "DO NOT WELD OR HEAT" like andre's old festiva shocks did, didn't stop him :) craig is crazy, i don't know what posesses him to think a 6" corolla diff can stand up to 250hp of turbo A12 for long, we shall see. he can go have his smelly datsun r31 lsd fitted when it blows up :D

i can get my ke25 handbrake to hold the car on just about any incline you can throw at it, with only 4 or 5 clicks. same size drums. methinks something else is the problem

you can actually make a car with leaves handle pretty well, it's a balance thing. that's what matt and i theorise anyway. of course, i'd prefer coils :) lucky was doing some trial fitting with festiva and starlet rear shocks (springs integral) in the ke10, planning to just use the top leaf to locate the diff

sequential secondaries, cool :)

you want ke25. ke20 is too high, like it needs needs a chop top, and the bum looks funny. ke25 is smooth and sporty :D i once saw an ae86 in an option magazine with an s13 irs grafted into it, apparently they're pretty bulletproof. but yes, pretty difficult to engineer over here. that's why you drive a stock commodore/pajero and tow your racecar around right rob :) i reckon with all nolathane bushes, some decent shocks, stiffer springs, my ke25 could handle pretty well, compared to how it is now anyway. but that could be said for any car really. with the ke25 it's not so much the fact it has leaves, but the fact that it has coils on the front and leaves on the back, so it's hard to balance the handling out because the front and rear end are responding differently plus the diff moves around when you chuck it really hard, that's not helping anything. a panhard bar or something, and a swaybar wouldn't be a bad idea either, maybe one day you can really go all out with a rear end, tom carter's te27 is a good example http://www.netwiz.net/%7Etcar/c74sr5.html

i also prefer the early front end i prefer a ke25 more, but i spose you guys are into all that "decent handling" business with your 5 link rear ends and shit :)

ROFL

thats always been a rule. you can't drop a 4k into say, an echo, because its older. all emissions reasons you CAN do it, but you need engineer certification, maybe even EPA test results ($$$) if you're drastically changing it. my mate's dad put a series 1 12A into a series 2 rx7, and had to get it engineered to certify the engine complied with all relevant standards to the series 2 motor. mainly it was pouring over some emissions diagrams for a couple of hours and a noise test really it depends on who's doing the paperwork, i know of a ke55 with a ke30 3k in it that didnt need squat, just an engine number change, but by the book that shouldn't be allowed. rta/qt/victrans CAN look up what vehicle an engine came out of, and refuse you registration if you don't have all the right bits of paper, but often if the engine number has been cited by the relevant registered inspection station, they'll just go right ahead and change it it also raises questions as to exactly what constitutes an engine, for emissions purposes. i can get some f@$koff old v8 from like, a kingswood, put brand new modern heads and efi on it, and not be allowed to drop it into my vh commodore because the block is older than the car, even though the emissions setup is easily more modern and enviro-friendly than both the original engine and the vehicle its going into

whats everyone's favorite two-player video game? i'm on the hunt for decent games to add to my snes/psx repertoire. here's some i can think of that my mates and i like playing PSX Gran Turismo 2 Dead Or Alive Tekken 3 Point Blank Worms SNES Street Fighter 2 Turbo Super Mario Kart Mortal Kombat 3 Killer Instinct Super Virgin Girls i have lots of nes megadrive games but we never play them for some reason. none of us have bothered to get a ps2 either but suggestions are always welcome

that looks pretty friggin straight! any rust? the big open mouth and goggly headlight holes make me think of homsar "iiiiiiiii was raised by a cup of coffee" - www.homestarrunner.com

talked to a dude up the carpark once who reckoned he had a cammed and carbed 3S in an ST141. white wagon with centerlines, it's up there a bit. perhap i misunderstood DP conversion is just mechanical secondary right? if you change engine capacity by more than 15% in nsw, or something that's not factory optional in qld, you need to get it engineered. australia wide, if you change the engine configuration (ie 4 cyls to 6 cyls), turbocharge or supercharge you need to get it engineered and yes, from everything i've heard, you can use 2S corona bits on a 3SGTE and get it to bolt up fairly easily. if you used RT corona bits, providing they bolt into your model of course, you could fit a 22RE just as easily. i'd like to see a blown 22RE, Rs are certainly one of toyota's WAY overengineered examples, 3Ss don't have the same bulletproof reputation, but there are alot more bits available, and people push them harder, so who knows