Super Jamie

then you too can have that f@$king annoying buzzer when you go over redline, WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH :)

let's all go to a corolla messageboard and ask questions about putting a supra engine into a corona. perhaps http://forums.toymods.org.au/ would be more your cup of tea, son

are they the buzzy ones? we have them on the burringbar range. i like to drive with two wheels on them an accelerate, it sounds like a cessna is taking off next to you :)

http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~zu3h-sonm/minicar/mcar-2.htm

be afraid integra, be very afraid

ae92 seca - handling optional

i've done a bit of r&d and come up with a better concept than that roller skate thing over there introducing the all new 2005 corolla sportivo

driving is pretty tiring when you start out, the concentration really gets to you. i remember on my Ls driving like half an hour was exhausting! as it becomes more natural, you'll be able to handle it more. then you might even end up like me and get a job where you have to do a f@$kton of driving, i've done easily over 125000km in the last 3 years this is actually a good case for driver fatigue, i know someone who reckons if cops weren't so anal about speed limits and people weren't constantly worrying about doing the exact speed limit so they don't get booked, there wouldn't be such a problem with it. "you don't get tired from really driving a car, you get tired from staring at a speedo for hours on end", especially in a modern powerful car that wants to cruise at 120 or more

i hope ur not going to post skiddy porn, u'll get arrested for that! :)

http://www.tccn.nl/16-gallery/generatie-4/ST165rallyjump.jpg http://www.tccn.nl/16-gallery/generatie-1/142.jpg http://www.tccn.nl/16-gallery/generatie-2/ra40-cvt.jpg

far be it from me to think i know what young sports car owners might want in a small force inducted motor vehicle, but i wonder if toyota have thought of MAKING IT REAR WHEEL DRIVE and thats just ugly. it looks like a nissan 350z crossed with a drag honda civic, LAME! i f@$king hate new cars, they all just look like each other, where's the creativity these days? here are some good looking cars, all from the same era, all in the same class, each with their own unique identity and look http://www.toygarage.com/featured_car/Tiny%20TE27.jpg http://www.selectmaz.com.au/images/bodykits/r100l.jpg http://martybugs.net/DatsunPix/pix/andy.jpg

an uncracked original steering wheel, wow. ahh that brings back memories of my ke35 when i got it. i also stripped some parts off a car just like that, except the roof was a bit more cavey :)

vacuum leak? you have enough time to make a phonecall and sit and post on a messageboard about your car, you have enough time to look at it yourself too

ohh you were telling me about them! don't much fancy spending money on a gun, i'll just drill some holes in the metal and use bolts or self tappers :) gearbox boots, brackets, fire extinguishers, this tranny tunnel is gonna be like swiss cheese when i'm done with it :)

wtf is a nutsert?

out of interest, where and how do you guys mount your extinguishers? i'm thinking something real classy, like self tappers thru the transmission tunnel or floor in the passenger side footwell

all the backing plates have the same bolt pattern, even ke10 ones i believe, but everything else about them is different ke20 and 30 jap handbrakes are different, as the backing plate spaces the shoes out further on a ke30, as their axle flange is longer. but yes, the internal bits are the same

chris savage... u didnt move from western australia did you? used to be friends with cherie?

i wouldn't recommend undoing the engine crossmember bolts, they're tensioned to the castor rod plates and suck to get back in, you might end up making alot more work for yourself, and need another wheel alignment i think your problem is input shaft alignment. you're either not getting the angle of the box right as you slide it on and the input shaft is hitting the spigot bearing, or the input spline teeth are clashing, just rotate the spline a little and try again i personally find it easier to put the back of the gearbox on the gearbox crossmember, just past the mount, jack up the front of the gearbox, then get under it, sliding the box forward with my arms, and kicking the gearbox mount up onto the crossmember to tell the truth, i find it even easier to just take the whole engine out when i have to do anything to a gearbox or clutch. it's actually more of a hassle getting the bonnet on and off and getting the radiator mounted, than manouvering the engine and box assy in and out of the car (don't forget to block off the end of the gearbox, 2 litres of oil covers a surprisingly large space when it's 1mm thick on your garage floor, trust me) this may or may not be an option for you. this is also dealing with little light K motor stuff, i can lift a gearbox over my head easily, and there's relatively plenty of room, and no hydro clutch or high pressure fuel lines. T50s are heavy and awkward to work with, especially when you have so little leverage underneath a car "yes haikal, the navigator ALWAYS helps change the gearbox, i'll show you where it is in the cams manual, um, a bit later" :)

for less than $500 :P

blunted stylus, that sounds cool, A+ :P

so do i teddy, so do i :P

you still can't spell :fuzz: Real: Jamie Nickname: Super Jamie (yes alot of people actually call me that irl) stolen from a friend of mine who used to call himself Super David, except i'm superer :P

at what rpm, which made more torque in the low and middle parts of the rev range, which revved quicker, which was better on fuel, which blah blah blah outright power does not the better engine make, but as for an overall comparison between a 16v (bigport or smallport?:P) and 20v, i have no idea, and really it would depend on the application you could say any n/a motor is wasted without a turbo, but a turbo motor is more sensitive to heat, there's more to worry about in relation to spark timing and fuel delivery, and there's more bits so there's more that can break. that's where your n/a motors shine - dependability and longevity i think it would be really hard to build a tough AND reliable turbo motor yourself at home, god knows i find it hard enough to build a tough reliable n/a motor, mine's just getting to that stage now! that being said, you can mathematically only get so much power out of a naturally aspirated motor. once you reach 100% VE (which realistically will never happen anyway) then that's it, time to increase capacity or force induct not meaning to be devil's advocate, just there's more sides to every opinion, and it makes for interesting discussion when you have nothing else to do :fuzz:

if a modern 20v efi engine is "useless", then it makes me wonder what status a 4k gets? landfill? this sounds like toymods talk (you wait till i get my turbo/gze/20v) 20v engines are goddamn powerful motors for what they are, even stock. have you ever driven one for any extended period of time? i think you'd be surprised at how flexible and driveable they are, they're actually quite nice if you want to race things and win all the time (as would be a comparison of any modification package on toymods because they're all going to be fooly sick street lap machines and drift vessels one day) then any stock 1.6 motor is going to suck no matter what it is. it would even be hard to make a reliable tough N/A 20v motor in a full street trim modern car to fulfill that function, because everything else that races and/or drifts is larger capacity and often factory force inducted but is the engine then "useless"? no. it's an overengineered and slightly overpowered motor for a corolla - a car intended to carry your shopping home in, only in the 90s you can get home before there's condensation on the icecream tub. as far as an overall stock engine package, bonus points go to toyota for making a smooth reliable example in the 20v everything has its place, just because something is compared out of place, doesn't make it broadly and blatantly useless just my 2c