Super Jamie

the best thing about K motors is that you can go all out on them and spend 2 grand like i did, or you can get them reconditioned and stick in a cam and still have a f@$king kickass motor for under 500 bucks - if you do some bits yourself like head porting, assembly, fitting, etc and yes, it totally rocks beating something which is twice or three times your capacity, in a 1300cc engined car :) it ocurred to me a while back that most v8 drivers who lose to doug probably just think there's a rotary in the car. dude you need a numberplate like "ITS13L" or something ;)

keep in mind an ARP set of bolts would probably have to be bought in sets of 8, being for an 8 cylinder motor and all and yeah that's fair enough. this way i don't have to engineer it, and i don't really like efi. that's why i went with a 4k the bottom end itself has only cost about $1300 - that's boring, chemical clean, balance, lightened flywheel, hd clutch, new flywheel bolts, 060 pistons, all new bearings and gaskets, timing chain and tensioner, water pump, camshaft, distributor, everything below the deck the remainder was work on that bigport head, which wasn't in the best shape when i got it (triple helicoils everywhere), and still really isn't (cracked above plug tube to deck). plus new valves, hd springs, seats cut twice, stripped manifold stud, etc etc. if i knew then what i know now, i'd have spent the ~$750 getting a standard 4k head ported and with bigger valves, but as they say hindsight is better than foresight either way i'm happy with it, and i know what to do next time ;)

have a look at a few different rods ben, K motor rod bolts are already about the size of 350/351 rod bolts. bigger than 304/308, smaller than 454. unless you're going to be taking your engine to big (7500+) rpm for several years in a row (and it takes about 3 years to kill a K motor with stock rod bolts) i don't think it's necessary. that being said, i do have a jig to put a 4k (i think?) rod in so you can fit bigger rod bolts, i'll lend it to you if you get around to building a tough 4/5k :)

i can find lots of references about using kerosene as a partial-substitute in diesel and two-stroke motors, but nothing about four stroke combustion engines kerosene is of a higher distillation order than gasoline (as is diesel). i would have thought that would reduce RON as the fuel is less dense? http://www.fact-index.com/p/pe/petroleum.html http://www.fact-index.com/k/ke/kerosene.html http://www.fact-index.com/g/ga/gasoline.html

some old racing guys down here used to build really tough K motors, they had a couple of 1500cc 4Ks at one point, but they didn't last very long :) they've moved on to building 4a and 3s turbo motors now. the ke55 the dude's missus used to get around in, is now owned by some young kenny in my town, tough 5K with holden six valves and aisan twincarbs. i want a race ;)

oh so its the usual 3k stroker trick, 4k crank, 4k rods, 77mm charade pistons. you'd need to dummy assemble and measure piston-deck clearance, grind out an oversize head gasket, i think you'd end up with a really nice quench area (into the head gasket but not into the head). you can get those pistons new thru acl up to 060 over, that would be one hell of an oversize 4k (73x79.4mm = 1446cc) ;) get a few spare blocks bored to suit ay :) kinda like a datsun L18, you fit 2.4 navara crank and rods, 060 300zx pistons and end up with a 100 overbore plus massive stroke! how much torque would that have!!! the tosco 3k was 160 thou over, 66x79mm = 1295cc. i asked bill sherwood where to get those pistons when i was building my motor, but eventually decided against it. single ring + oil ring, short skirt race piston, not exactly long lasting street material

it looks silly from the front, but side on it gives the car a good shape haha run the page thru babelfish, it makes no sense whatsoever :)

http://www3.kcn.ne.jp/~sato-net/ doesn't life suck when all you have to do is live in japan and drive around in your genuine te27 and take photographs of your car in the picturesque environment, or even just go to car shows with the rest of your te27 club and take pictures of other peoples cool classic japanese cars. yep, some people sure have it hard

i've made that sprinter before! omg it was years ago, cool :) IF YOU'RE INTO MINIs http://www.vancouverminiclub.ca/papercut.html D&D NERD CUTOUTS http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/fpm/archive OMG LIKE A WHOLE SITE OF PAPER TOYS WHEE http://papertoys.com/

that's right, i said it wrong shorter stroke means a higher piston speed rpm limit as there is slower overall piston speed

fark, i don't half mind that chick in the bottom picture, she looks like she's about to tip over! :D

width/ratio/rimsize on a 205/50/15, the tread is 205mm wide, the sidewall height is 50% of the tread width, and that tyre goes on a 15" rim

you're right actually. K engined models came with 155SR13 (155/82/13) and T engined models came with 165SR13 (165/82/13) 155SR13 is most accurate to 205/50/15 at 0.3%. with 215/50/15 speedo is out 2.0%, with 195/50/15 speedo is out 1.4%. both 215 and 195 are actually defectable tyre sizes, as they increase overall tyre height by more than 15mm

165R13 i believe, or maybe it was 155 now that you mention it. i have the tyre sticker from the ke35 at home on my pinboard. R with no ratio (back in the early days) means 82% profile

but that's a 3k, shorter stroke means higher piston speed means more max rpm. or is rob using a 4k crank? i can't remember :D

no, 215/50/15 is 0.6% oversize, 195/50/15 is 2.8% undersize. based on a 165/82/13 which is what the speedo gear is designed for

that's so bad, you couldn't even reach power peak :D have you got that bloody white thing out on the skidpan yet? i want to see SUPER MEGA 100KW HYPER FOOK-POWERED HAPPY DORIFTO ACTION PHOTO GALLERY!

there is a wheel and tyre size calculator on my garage page http://www.superjamie.net/garage/ best original speedo accuracy for 15s is 215/50/15 but they're a big big tyre, and probably expensive. alot of people use 195/50/15s instead, with those your speedo will actually read 2.8% MORE than what you're really doing

CLASSIC ARCADE MACHINES http://www.wayoftherodent.com/gd101/bs_paperarcade.htm DOMO KUN http://corruptcomputer.com/antimethod/extra/domokun.jpg

with a stock motor, rev it until it won't rev anymore, you probably don't have the airflow to get it past 7000rpm anyway theoretically, you shouldn't rev a 4k past 7600, as the stock crank and rods aren't strong enough to handle that much piston speed. that's just based on a mathematical formula though that being said, i have taken mine to 8200 a few times, and 8000 alot of times, but i've improved some parts (head, camshaft, valve springs). i know of other improved 4Ks that have been taken to about 8000rpm for several years without a problem. apparently if you rev them past 8000 too much, the blocks crack

yes, most definately! this is one of the best ways to get more air into a motor, and eventually becomes a must once you've gone as far as you can go with porting and manifolds. this is what you should do if you end up with a 3k bigport head, as the size of the ports is really too big for the size of the stock valves. that being said, then you need to fit different seat inserts, guides, seals retainers and possibly springs to suit the new valves, so it ends up becoming quite expensive, as there's alot of custom work involved you can also go TOO big, the valve needs to be big enough to allow maximum airflow into the chamber, but small enough that it doesn't cause shrouding and restrict the airflow into the chamber. as a general rule, you should have 5mm @ half lift clearance to the edge of the combustion chamber. when you have an oversized piston, you can go a little bigger again with valves, as you can take the combustion chamber out further than a stock piston. we're talking miniscule amounts tho, 0.060" or 1.5mm at most. and if you do it all wrong and fit massive valves, you can end up with LESS power potential than a stock valve http://www.google.com/search?q=bigger+valves http://www.google.com/search?q=valve+shrouding

very attentive fookie, it looks like there's some sort of clear plastic over them tho? like a dome? my gauges are green too. i could get the dremel out and remove the colored plastic inserts around the lamps, but a) i'm too lazy and b) it would make the posts for the center riser bits wobbly and i don't want to hack up my dash. admittedly that could be fixed with araldyte, but see point a) :D

that looks so sweet, especially with the white tacho and oil pressure gauge, well done!

i found any more than 12 degrees advance with a stock distributor really restricted power up high. i used to do big full throttle runs up a hill with my stock 3k. on 20 degrees i could barely get to 105km/h, with 10 or 12 degrees i'd get up to 125km. 20 degrees did, however, make the car totally crack at low rpm :D instant throttle response

0wn3d