Super Jamie

now THAT is some super research, faq material, well done! if i go to mum's on the weekend i'll get numbers for the ke10 straight runner manifolds. i've also got a water jacket twin manifold at home

thats about how much mine cost, self assembled. but that was 060 oversize, fully balanced, blah blah blah, plus a shitheap of labour repairing the bigport head. i wouldn't have paid that for a standard rebuild is that manifold with the big runners factory cast or have the ports been enlarged? how big are they (HxW)? what model weber is that?

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA OMG *wet pants*

how many horsepower u reckon the yak's got? :P

TOOL SECTION HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts close to the object we are trying to hit. Can also be used to bend nails. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing convertible tops or tonneau covers. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works well for drilling rollbar mounting holes in the floor of a sports car just above the brake line that goes to the rear axle. Also useful for breaking drill bits. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads, or to pinch the skin between a mechanics thumb and forefinger. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, enable deep scratches to be placed at random all over any object. VICE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting those stale cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket drawer (What wife would think to look in there?) because you can never remeber to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter. ZIPPO LIGHTER: See oxyacetelene torch. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding six-month old cigarettes from the sort of person who would throw them away for no good reason. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it all over the bench-grinder, or another expensive electrical appliance. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench at the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say "Django Reinhardt." HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a GT Falcon to the ground after you have installed a set of Ford Motorsport lowered road springs, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front air dam. EIGHT-FOOT LONG STEEL PIPE: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood/metal splinters. NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS: Used when attempting to retrieve small components which have fallen into a hidden crevice within the engine bay. In an emergency, can be used to round off bolt heads. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting gasket-goo off your boot. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup on crankshaft pulleys. The attatched leads are usefull for becoming entangled in the fan of a running engine, rendering the entire instrument suddenly useless. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have forgotten to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty suspension bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in England, and rounds them off. SCREWDRIVER: device used for opening beer cans. Also serves as a chisel. Primarily used for removing excess skin from palm and making random gouges in things. The flat blade at the end can be removed if desired by placing in the notch on a screw head and applying a rotational pressure. SOLDERING WIRE (silver): although this item was designed before the invention of plastic, it's main use is as a replacement for twist-ties. STAPLEGUN: invented by Charles Atlas for developing the forearm. This tool should never be used for trying to attach one item to another as staples are not made in that size. BALL-PEEN HAMMER: Interestingly, when first discovered in a cave by Fransco de Gama in 1602, the ball-peen hammer was useless, as the peen had not yet been invented, and the paractice of hitting yourself in the balls had already been perfected by the Druids, using a variety of devices. Ballpeen hammers are now used by those with steady hands to swat flies. Also used as a universal centerpunch, and for turning fingernails black. SIDCHROME SOCKET SET: When used as directed by manufacturer, will effectivly strip the thread from any known bolt. Older bolts can be made to snap off flush with their retaining holes. ( See E-Z OUT ). The metric sizes are good for rounding off bolts on older American and English cars, and most Australian cars. SIDCHROME RATCHET SOCKET HANDLE: A good substitute for any hammer. CHEMICAL SECTION. MINERAL SPIRITS: aka paint thinner, enamel thinner, stuff. Used for wetting metal parts. Also used for adhereing paint brushes to containers (Note: process takes approx one month) This chemical can be used in place of any other chemical with reduced effeciency. LACQUER THINNER: Used to cool skin. Also used to make lacquer useless. This chemical was invented by Dulux for the purpose of making money. Creative mechanics often use lacquer thinner to tie-die trousers while wearing them. GUNK/GUMPTION: invented by Forrest Gunk. Gunks primary componant is mayonnaise but perfume and lanolin are added to make mechanics hands soft and lovely. Also used for lubricating pipe fittings, and for getting rags dirty. Do not eat. Once applied to skin, Gunk never comes off. GREASE: Used for making rags dirty. GLUE: When left open for the correct time, will produce blurred-vision and halucinations in nearby mechanics. A good substitute for beer ( See Drill-Press. ) SILICON GASKET-IN-A-TUBE: When left to age sufficiently, the outer layer can be peeled off, revealing a blob of hard rubber the same shape as the original tube. If used immediately, can effectivly plug up radiator cores.

btw, if anyone needs a jap diff center gasket, i have one scanned full size in the oldcorollas yahoo group files

you can use just silicon, but it will eventually develop a slow leak, like maybe 2-3 drops a week, like mine is :P with borg warner diffs, its really easy to make a gasket because you can remove the backplate to trace around it, use thin thin gasket paper and permatex 3 to seal when nikki crashed rollie, it was still running the cornflake packet gasket i made on my driveway the day after my last birthday party, and i didnt think that had leaked either. cornflake packet is glossy on one side, it would leak after time (2 years?). you'd probably have more luck with say manilla folder, thin card or just a couple of sheets of A4 paper you can also get a new gasket from toyota, maybe even repco. it doesnt seem like something supercheap or autobarn would have on the shelf, but u never know :fuzz:

"OMG I LOVE YOUR NEONS UNDER THE DASH FOOLY BRO"

no no give it to me!

or go to the tip or a produce store and look at the numbers on the display :P

thats because you're sposed to tune your idle with the air filter on :fuzz: the air moves a heap differently at idle without a filter on, hence the idle characteristics change. the stock element flows fine, just the snorkel housing isn't helping things, hence why i cut mine up :P the idle bits aren't that hard to get to, even in our little ke2x engine bay. it's way too cramped to get a screwdriver in there, i find it's a million times easier to twiddle the mixture and idle speed screws with a 5c coin, i keep a few in my ashtray for this purpose

ADRs started in 1972 the 72-75? (maybe 78) K emissions system consisted of a pcv plate beneath the carb, pcv valve on the rear of the rocker cover, tube from the middle of the rocker cover to the air cleaner housing, timing cover with crankcase vent, going to another pcv valve bolted to the block, connected to the air cleaner housing, and with a hose to the transmission tunnel whoever told you that it's legal to remove the emissions gear from any car is incorrect. any modifications to emissions need to pass EPA tests to prove the car is equal or better to the original standard. technically it's illegal to have your vac lines blocked up with ball bearings too, or a 3k carb with the 4k stuff bolted to it so it looks like it's original, but who's going to check :P f@$k, it's technically a defect to put a pod on a new(ish) car without an engineering cert in queensland they do roadside emissions tests, much like an RBT for your car. that being said, fook had his gsr put through one of them, with no cat, and it passed so they can't be too strict i've personally found that without a pcv valve and plate, my oil is f@$ked and black within 150 miles. with the pcv system intact (however, chrome filter on middle rocker cover hose, 4k timing cover with no vent) my oil stays cleaner a hell of a lot longer

the BVSV and the V S/W do it for me every time, lol ah the memories

teddy make sense or we send the lobster man after you!

ah yes, the old debt-with-nothing-to-show-for-it, banks must love young males who do up cars. this was the basis of my large post to teddy a little while back i have one of those debts too, only about half as bad as yours, and i sold the fruits of that to fook for a couple of hundred bucks so he could paint it white and put a 4ag in it :) still, i have a wicked 4k to show for it, and used the last of the money to register the ke25 my mum actually bought for me (theres a secret for you all) thanks mum :P thats a pretty good story about the gay-zelle. nice to see you sold it to move onto cars of a more toyota nature :) there was some car show in new zealand where they got a 4k and a 12a, dropped the water from each, most of the oil, and bricked them. the 12a lasted about 10 seconds, the 4k was still going after something stupid like half an hour and only stopped cos they got bored and turned it off. i used to hold my 3k on valve bounce for horribly long times, it's still good, just sitting under mums house with half the bits missing to go on my 4k :fuzz:

my mum once "topped up" the engine oil in her v6 pajero with some 90W gearbox oil i had laying around. voila, two cracked heads :P

i love your rims. don't ever get rid of them hey, they are perfect

ok perfectly might not be the world, partially lawnmower-like because the bore clearance has widened might be a bit more accurate, but no worse than a worn street motor. the point is, the thing still starts idles and drives :fuzz: well that is until you jump it and fold the roof in half (ke35) or do some custom body mods with a sigma and a corona (ke36) :P

ditch the ramflo, they have a reputation for chunking off and putting bits of foam down the carby. personally i like a good quality paper filter. cheap, flows almost as well as a new k&n, and doesn't degrade anywhere near as much when it gets dirty. simple is best :P

how did the swap go?

if i had valve bounce at 8 grand i'd be pissed off :P we've done this to paddock basher corollas before, even with no water and oil, the pistons just expand until they sieze in the bores. leave it overnight and it will start up again perfectly

talking to one of the couriers at work the other week, hes casually talking about the racecar he's got with his son. i ask what it is, a 60s anglia (harry potter car) with a 20 grand cossie donk with dry sump pushing 230bhp. fark me :fuzz: if stock supras are anything to drive like they are in gran turismo (and from my experience with fwd corollas, gt is pretty accurate) i would be pissed off if i bought one i don't think i'll ever own a car younger than me :P

for normal engine consumable parts - bearings, gaskets, rings, timing chain, etc - you go to any engine builder or auto parts store, these are in the yellow pages. don't buy repco pistons because they crack if you want actual toyota parts such as heads and blocks and spare cams to get regrinds on, hunt around forums and groups asking people, or go to the wreckers

i've wondered how those exhausts would perform as well. they say a 90 degree press bend has equal restriction to 3 metres of stright pipe. maybe the car looks really cool but you can't rev it over 4 :P

i personally like the huge vertical exhausts (the star one!) and the neon truck, haha not! however that japanese look of HUGE negative camber and skinny tyres stretched round over massive rims in massive pumped guards does look pretty wicked :P