Super Jamie

do any of you know cameron who i bought my ke25 off? he used to have a ke30 with a turbo 5K, and a ke30 with an L20B? when i bought the mango, he had a fwd U31 bluebird (import turbo one). apparently he got bored with it, i sms'ed him a while back, and he said he was now driving an sr20det ke70 with 220rwhp ;)

say you had a weight with engine driver and fuel of 1900lb (863kg) and dropped 100hp to spin the driveline, that's a 9.4 second quarter man what a ripoff, 50k sunk into a v8 or rotor (or f@$k even a decent six) would get you into eights at least! there's only so much power you can make with 1300cc ;)

c'mon, it could at least do a run in rev and burnout! yay top fueller 4k ;)

you'd have to spend a hell of a lot of money on a 4k to make it do 9 second passes though, and it would be totally undriveable on the street. in fact, about the only thing left original would probably be the block and head

seeyas there then, lets hope my gearbox lasts ;)

i don't really think rotors are anything special, and if you spend enough money on anything it will do 9s (even a 4K), i don't think ENOUGH people look at the positives of rotary engines. they're known for being unreliable, short-lived, having no torque and eating too much fuel. these things are all true of early rotaries, but anything with technology after gen 1 rx7 is pretty good i like my 4k too ;)

well said nick ;) it appears all my friends are going sunday, and i don't want to miss all toyota day, so it appears nats is locked-out-eddy for me. haha and to think i was going to have a quiet weekend at home alone! how many fuellers are gonna be there? i don't think any records will get broken, it does get pretty cold out at willowbank, but a bit too cold and the track gets slippery out of the groove, and its even colder this year than it was last! wsid has all that smog to keep the heat on the track and let cowin run f@$kin 321.96 like he did the other weekend, WOW THATS FAST!

that is so much bullshit ;) i'm pretty sure distributorless 4AGEs (20v?) are dual waste spark, thats what stewart ford has told me anyway. with a distributor, you have single spark. yes the cylinders are coming up and down and there's spark at/around tdc even on the "off" cylinder, but the valves are only opening to allow air-fuel into one cylinder hence you get your firing order 1342. the advantage of this system is that the coil has more charge time (actually dual coils, one for each pair) so you get a bigger spark you and i are way too similar nick, one of my dream cars is an import turbo series 5 (as stated here http://www.superjamie.net/ke25/other/ for a while now). but as people said to me when i suggested it, "what? you're like, the king of old skool!" so i'd have to get like a nice RX2 with a series 5 turbo motor :insane: lucky once built a mini motor with 12.4:1 compression. one of his houses had a really steep driveway, so you'd start at the top with a push, roll down to the bottom, drop the clutch and it would just compression lock, screeching the tyres on tarmac and throwing you thru the windscreen. now THAT is compression :D

how much does it cost? i might turn up with ken and nikki

actually f@$kit not like i have anything better to do, if i can get a ride up with my mates, i'll try be there, probably saturday

jamboree - daytime is singlet and shorts, nighttime is jeans and jacket

when's jambo? september or something isnt it?

bahahahaha ;)

HAHAHA the death cigar!

lol its TP, toilet paper

ditto. i might cruise up to wintersun at tweed heads and goldcoast tho, just to cruise around and see all the phat cars parked there. i'll definately be setting aside cash for jamboree this year tho, yay i love grimas!

tighe? their 80 buck grind fee is pretty good, other places usually quote $95-$115. my cam was done by camshaft engineering in coorparoo, they're in the yellow pages

stock valve springs usually stop revving at about 7500, even newish ones. as they get older they de-tension and won't rev as hard. fook's 4k stops revving at about 5500. my 3k used to valve bounce at 6200

i'd say he held the accelerator open, possibly with a brick cafee with the blue 2 door ke30 has a similar engine to mine, except it got done up about 8 years ago. the other month he booted it our of a roundabout and his accelerator cable stuck open (much like happened to rollie) in town, he fought it with the brakes but it kept pulling, he clutched in, it freerevved, he turned the key off and pulled over. his monster tach flicked to about 10500. people poked their heads out of shops, people said it sounded like a motorbike accident wicked

i had my 4k up to 8200rpm on the weekend, still haven't hit valve bounce! i don't really have the nuts (nor desire to spend money getting another block bored and rebuilding my internals in that) to take it further doing some research into piston speed lately, at those revs, the slugs were doing about 3900 feet per minute, which is well beyond the time for an upgraded crank and forged pistons, which i don't have ;) following some general rules-of-thumb, you shouldn't rev a 4k past ~7650 with stock crank and cast pistons

you could probably get the original one reconditioned for less than the price of one of those supercheap ones too, last time i checked it was about $150

constant hard driving and big revs will use excessive fuel, and probably shag your motor out quicker as well but to a point, during non-highway driving you're better to keep revs a little bit higher than cruise, as you place less load difference on the engine when you do need to make power during normal driving, such as taking corners or just changing your speed, so you use less fuel and less throttle to change the amount of power you're making. it's better to use more revs and less throttle than vice versa an engine is most efficient at what. say you use 5 units of fuel to make 4 units of power, that's good efficiency. at lower throttle you might be using 2 units of fuel to make 1 unit of power. your efficiency is lower, but you're still using less fuel you should also give an engine a good rev every now and then, to clear out some of the carbony shit that builds up in the combustion chamber. everyone's heard the story of the old man who takes his corolla into the mechanic because it's running rough, the boys take it for a big rpm flog around the block a couple of times to clear it out and it works fine

^^^ read i wouldnt bother getting a sprinter cam ground, if you had one lying around and could put it in for nothing then it would be worth it. if you're going to spend money, get that tighe cam that's 20/60 instead, more torque without too much of a fuel hit, you'll get alot more enjoyment out of it. the smaller cams like the sprinter one are more for 3Ks coil is ignition coil. bosch gt40 is a good step if you're keeping your points. jaycar hei is a cheap way to get big sparks (but doesnt work with the gt40). i'm eventually going to get an MSD 6a and blaster 2 coil, yeah heah ;)

apart from making sure everything is at its proper state of tune (rebuilt and tuned carburettor, reconditioned distributor, tappets set correctly, timing chain not worn, no huge amount of piston blowby) i personally think by far the best economy device you can fit is a vacuum gauge even a little one from supercheap will have something like idle/drive/fair/poor vacuum states, and you control your right foot to try to keep the gauge as close to drive as possible when driving, as manifold vacuum changes as you depress the accelerator to open the throttle butterflies making your car lighter will improve things, as you need to use less power to move less mass. making your car more powerful within reason also helps, as you use less throttle to make the same amount of power, hence less fuel, this applies mostly to things like exhaust and ignition timing. i suspect going up to a sprinter-spec cam (18/58) would make the car more driveable with a help to fuel economy at most driving speeds that being said, i get just under 10L/100km out of my 4k, and that's driving like i usually do (bit of a hoon, like snapchanges). with my well tuned stock 3k i could get about 7.4L/100km yes, longer intake runners will give you more torque, but reduce throttle response (as the air has a longer space to travel between the throttle butterfly and the engine) and restrict top end power. longer extractors usually also improve power at lower rpm, but will make power worse elsewhere in the rev range. you can definately see this more in rotary engines, extractors that join under the passenger seat or even just before the diff aren't uncommon for street rotors. i think most corolla aftermarket extractors are tuned length for about 5500rpm, that's when my old genies used to come on resonance, you could hear it change from BAAH to HUMM rule number one of engineering: everything's a tradeoff

i like the calm little ding dong when you leave the lights on, ahh :) i also like the pop on gearchanges because of the stupid thermal reactor exhaust system, but thats not something you'd put on a corolla :)