towe001

Ditto ! How the hell do you always keep coming up with such close to prefect cars ? Pimp your mother or something ??? :lolcry:

I just love the idea of how everybody on this thread has the mind set of that all honda motors except the F20C spins backwards :lolcry:

Yes, tailshaft should be right. But just to be on the safe side i'd pull it out and make sure it fits. That way you still have transport if its an oddu ball. Being the 2 speed auto you won't have to worry about welding x-members together. Don't use the x-member from the ke70, just the gearbox mount. The fun bit with that is of fitting up the g'bojx to the motor and tailshaft, bolting in x-member ( but it'll have to be lowered by an 1") and you'll have to bolt the g'box mount to the g'box so that you'll be able to work where to drill the holes in the x-member for the mount. Spigot bearing, flywheel and bolts can grabbed from either ke30 or ke70 a model inbetween. Wiring - i think from memory i have photo of what i did in my build thread (Towes turtle). I used a multimeter to figure out what was what with the six-way connector but two wires and a 12v bulb will do the same thing. And talking about a 12v bulb the autos shift lever has one.

I wonder how much the 6 speed from the s2000 would cost. The next question i'd be asking is that since the gearbox from the k20a powered integra can bolted to the f22 powered accord, what about the s2000's gearbox. Be an interesting thought since the f20c (from the s2000) is more or less the same block as the other F-series motors.

Sounds about right around town at 60. But when i went out to cressbrook for the camping trip the speedo was sitting on about 150/160 while i was doing 100.

Or ke55 manual x-member You'll need the mount as well - its different to the ke3x/5x Or ke55 From a ke3x or ke5x Or '55. But i'm pretty sure that the speedo cable for the auto will be ok. Now comes the tricky bit cause it'll all depend on the diff and what the auto was. If the ke30 is the early version with the 2 speed auto you should be alright with the factory fitted shaft. If its the later model with the 3 speed auto you'll need to find a shaft that'll also bolt to the diff's input flange, there's two types - the jap diff (small flange) and the BW diff (big flange) The only way i know of is finding an speedo adapter (or adjuster or whatever its called) Depends on if its the early or late version. The early version with the two speed will be fine, you'll just have to make up a spacer to drop the x-member down about 1". The late version with the three speed will need you do a bit of welding and/or possibly some fab work. I had to use the six-way connector thats near the auto shifter. Link two connectors together for ignition cutout and another pair i had to link a couple of lengths of wire in that went to the switch on the g'box. Depends on a few things like favours, the barter system, where you want to buy the stuff, how you want to buy the stuff. I've done all four. I think all up it cost me about $100. Someone not so lucky might find it costing a few hundred. You'll also need a spigot bearing, flywheel and bolts for flywheel and clutch.

So judging by that the R-series spins that "correct" way. As well as the L-series. The next thing of interest would be if you got told to use the factory computer. Which would make it rather hard since the ecu would control not just the motor but the transmission and pretty well everything else you can stick a finger in. The one thing that i'm not overly fussed on with the vetc is that the max torque band is up high about 2 grand off where max hp is made. Don't know how true it is but the motors demand a good quality oil that must be changed by the due date or you risk damage to the camshaft controller. But like i said i don't if its true or not. How about a mazda 4-banger ?

There's been a thread or two on the subject. The typical early honda motor spins anti-clockwise. More then likely you'll have to make custom bellhousing cause all bar two, the F20 and F22 from the S2000, are east-west only designed motors. http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-maintenance/some-engines-turn-counterclockwise-46572/ http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2557095 Good idea with thinking outside the box but i'd say it'll be expensive to go honda.

Needs more sidewall

Give take it'll be from the RN40 And give take it'll have ratio of 4.87:1

You should have seen some of the stuff that my dad use to tow with his '55 up hills and down hills. And the damn thing never broke a sweat. Except for one load that got the temp up to the 3/4 mark.

If i had the choice of either e10 or a bullet i'd sooner take my chances with a Kingscross hooker.

Trust you to know that

Once a upon time the plates i wanted was "TIH200" Thought at the time that it would have been interesting to see them in a mirror.

Might be an idea to get pix of missus first trev. She might just be some old bag lady that Slo picked up off the side of the road from Kingscross :lol:

Ever thought of a swingers club ?

Have you tried the timing ? Whats the weather like in your part of the world ?Just an average nice day or just crank the air con and stay indoors ? How fast does it overheat ? As fast as it would be to make a cup of coffee or would it take a while ? When does it overheat ? Around town or on the highway (or at speed) ? How long does the battery charge light stay on for ? Goes out as soon as the motor gets kicked or stays on for a while and its on and off at times ? The weather can play a part in the operating temp. Over-advanced ignition timing can drive the temp up - Try timing the motor. As can a blown head gasket - Compression test. Overheating around town could be a blocked radiator or at the least a blockage somewhere - Radiator shop and get it pro-flushed. On the highway it could be the water pump. (I think those two are the right way around) Battery charge light could be a sign of the belt slipping. Another one is bad hoses. Soft is bad, you need them to be nice and firm when you squeeze them between the hand and have a look for cracks, splits, bubbles etc (their bad)

I did the first time i went in. Just about had a heart attack when my hand went to my wallet and found it wasn't there, started thinking it heard as well and made a bolt for it.

Yep 138 bucks later just to be told that i'm above average with excellent hearing for someone that has hearing problems.

Thats not a WTF, thats one of those daewoo (or was that opel) car carrier things

The Gemini is a Isuzu (aka - Isuzu Bellett Gemini)

Its "K&H" not 3M. 3M bought out K&H around the second quarter of 2008 and started relabelling the products late last year as 3M. Its why at one stage you would have seen 3M mixed with K&H. But you might still find the old K&H brand in some shops, like where i use to work, cause their bunch of die-hards. Anything that had a hint of 3M was sent back....

How good are you with the gun ? Not very good ? Never done it before ? If you want the candies, pearls etc get a pro to do it. Metallic you might have a better chance of it. Years ago when i was still getting around on all fours and the time of enamel paints only, my dad had a xt falcon. Dad and a mate painted it in two colours,a red top coat and a blue bottom coat i think from what he's told me about it was that they didn't spray the top coat (red) as thick as what the bottom coat (blue) was and in differing shades of light and shadow the paint came up in different shades of red/blue (bright light it was red and night time it was blue) Its something i've been thinking of myself

^^ true. $138 for a damn hearing test and thats after the health care card kicked in. Oh well, at least i'll get about $66 back from medicare. The phuckin hoops that i have to jump through just to make some higher ups happy. Edit - Cause i had to :)

Oh yeah... Baa baa rainbow sheep :blinks: Manchester is out, it's now personchester :blinks: I'm not politically correct - i'm politically retarded (oops developmentally disabled )