towe001

Have a read http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/59459/index.html http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/13...trol/index.html Do a google on "traction control", "anti-squat", "third-link torque absorber" Caltrac bars are good but from what i've read so far not so much from a handling point of view. On the scale of cheapness Vs. Easeness would have to be good ol' slapper bars work a treat. Next on the list would be adding a half of a leaf to the rear side of the diff. Its pretty well much a case of stopping the axle either tramping (axle wind-up) or pulling the back of the car down (or squatting as its called)

Increase the turning radius ? Don't turn the steering wheel as far :dance: Or if your talking about being able to turn the car in a smaller circle. Take out the steering stops, but then you'll start scrubbing the tires against the guards at full lock. And/or lengthen the knuckle arms (or whatever their called - the things where the ball joints are mounted for the steering arms) but you start running into weird handling querks..... Better still, three-point-turns :abuse:

To answer your questions. Yes the corolla came with a diesel, it was the CE71 or whatever the number was. It was used in the last rear wheel drive model both the change to front wheel drive. I can't see anything too hard with swapping the motor into a ke3x to ke7x, just would have to do the usual things - engine and gearbox mounts, prop shaft, gearbox, etc. And brakes and suspension due to the heavier motor. But all-in-all for the little bit of fuel economy that you'd get just wouldn't be worth the time, energy and cost that you'd put into it.

The 4a-fc alternator is around 60-70 amps. Generally the alternator from an efi engine puts out more amps. If your not worried about modding mounting points the alternator from the vs commodore is around the 90 amp mark.

The wedge sucks. Thought, going by the ads on tv, that it was more like a comedy version of the likes of home & blown away, neighbours etc. Anywhat, there's always something else, like reading a book :)

Wouldn't finding a gearbox for a motor that spins anti-clockwise, like a honda vtec, make things a difficult. But then again 5 reverse gears :( About the only hard thing i could really see with doing either the 1zz or 2zz would getting a custom bellhousing made up.

I was running my blue top head on a 4a-fc block at one stage. About the only differences i could see was that the counter-balances between the cranks were different, i had to use the flywheel from the 4a-fc and the intake manifold support bracket didn't have a bolt hole on the block. But, phastyotAE71, think of how much your spending on modding the 4a-c. That money could be used on a 4a-ge. If you was you i'd be spending money on things that could be transferred over to the 4a-ge. Like the exhuast (not including the extractors) for starters.

Go to a suspension shop thats willing to divert from the factory settings and have them set the front with 0 - 1mm toe out, about 1-2 degree more negative camber and have castor bushes fitted, for more castor. It'll help with the turning in. On the back. 0 - 1mm toe out. It'll make the arse end loose, but not enough to be uncontrollable. And learn how to left foot brake. Lowered suspension is a personal choice. I'm using standard height cause i don't like the idea of having the bottom of the car closer to the tarmac on the back roads where i spend most of my driving. Same thing with swaybars. Mines standard on the front with poly bushes on the bar and the links, and a whiteline adjustable rear bar. Never noticed much of a change till i had the wheel alignment done.

:ninja: About the only problem you'll have is the flywheel. The 4a-c uses 6 bolts to mount the flywheel where as the 4a-ge uses 8.

The "slight backfire" could be that you have hole in the exhaust manifold somewhere, like a gasket thats blown though. Fresh air is being sucked into the exhaust and its re-igniting the exhaust gas. As for the carbon, get yourself a compression gauge and see what the compression is on each cylinder. Me personally, i also like using a vacuum gauge as well.

About the only thing a twin 2in system will do is lose torque. Maybe a twin 1in system, but the only thing that would do is make the motor sound more like V4. You might gain something, but what you pick-up (if you get anything) is lost in the extra weight of the dual system and the extra cost. Its a waste of time on a inline 4 banger. Extractors :P i was under the impression that the fctory exhaust manifold was as good as aftermarket extractors.

http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/s...sion_bible.html Another good site is http://google.com.au Or you should be able to find it at the library, or get it ordered in... My opinion is that if the car's going to be used on the street then work on the standard suspension. If its for racing with a "who gives a rats ring about cost" then go for multi-link suspension