jfgarro

Hi Jack! Nice ride!!! I'm Jose Garro, from Costa Rica, and about to start my restoration project on a 1973 KE26. Question: the windshield rubber...is this OEM or aftermarket? where do you get it? Thanks!

Looks really beautiful! Congrats man!!!

Those cars are really grateful to all the TLC you can give them. So the money spended this way, is a good investment! I divided my project in many steps over the years: step 1, rebuild all the suspension and brakes, plus electrical work here and there, a new exhaust system, replace external old parts with OEM ones (turning lights, plastic trim, rear lights, bumpers) and wheels plus tires. It has been like this for about 5 years now...I really hope to start next year the step 2: bodywork! Mine is a summer car: in rainy season, there is water inside the cabin because all of the rust holes plus 40+ years old rubber :( So my goal will be disassembly it all, and restore the bodywork to his former glory! Plus, reinforcements in strategic points for adding rigidity. Step 3: Paint work....step 4 interior. And the final step: new engine! The K series engine is a great little engine, and with the right parts, can give many smiles per gallon...but I'm worried about future parts availability. So my plan is putting a modern engine (4ag series always be my Toyota favorite engine, and with Webers, the sound is just addictive), and drive it another 40 years! Keep motoring! And for the grand finale, a family pic: The red one is a KE26 station wagon with only 30k miles! It was stored for about 20 years, when the original owner died. A couple of years in legal procedures, and at last I can enjoy it! Only the wheels aren't stock, but the 3k engine and 4 speed manual box were fixed to top condition. And my plan is keep it this way, forever and ever!

Hi James, greetings from Costa Rica! From my experience: - Yes, is easier to fabricate a new metal wheel arc than buying one, it isn't that difficult. Unless of course there is a scrapyard near your location with any KE2x over there, but I believe is most likely to find gold in your home garden! - Are you refering to the upper soft vinyl part of the dash? Time to time, you can buy an OEM part on eBay, but be ready to pay the price (but with 40+ years of service, it is reasonable) https://www.ebay.com/itm/TE21-TE27-TE28-Toyota-Corolla-NOS-dash-pad-1971-1972-1973-1974-ke20-ke25-ke26/322376981566?fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item4b0f2a5c3e:g:ZlsAAOSwDNdV0QyC&vxp=mtr - Is your engine a Toyota K series? 3k (1200), 5k (1500)? Or a T series? Is posible to tune a Weber 40 for this engines, but is easier do it with a set of Weber DGV 32/36 (good torque, increase hp with good MPG). Now, if you want power with reability, always is better to put a modern engine, like a 4AG (140+ hp)...but you need to make new engine mounts, new gearbox (T50), a good differential, and if possible updated suspension, and of course, brakes. - I installed a Toyota Hilux brake master with servo, but had to make an adapter plate of 3/8" steel, with holes for both the firewall and the brake master base. Also, I fabricated a new longer pin from the pedal arm to reach the master. - On eBay, you can buy front and rear fiberglass spoilers based in TRD ones, here are the links https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Toyota-Corolla-TE27-TE25-KE25-KE20-rear-wing-duck-tail-Spoiler/182885284655?hash=item2a94cffb2f:g:7YIAAOSwrklVClcM&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Front-lip-spoiler-for-TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE20-KE25-TE27-sheet-metal-1-32/232563221392?hash=item3625d92390:g:ROQAAOSw7bpZjzPE&vxp=mtr - Other places to check for rust: front fender's low anchorage points with the main body, lower door's rocker panels, the lower radiator frame, the weld seam between the inner rear wheel arches and the main body, and the airbox floor (for me, the airbox is the part above the firewall where the plastic air intakes are, and the external air is draw into the cabin). This last one is especially important, because with over 40 years, and no corrosion protection in this zone, the water can found it's way to the cabin, soaking the floor mats and leaving that moisture smell I hate so much :( Hope this can help you, and welcome to the KE2x and TE2x owners club!!! José Garro, Costa Rica

Beautiful!! More pictures please! How about images of the interior?

You can read the link below, it was helpful when I need to wire my dad's car new alternator http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_113139/article.html

Beautiful car!

Incredible! Thanks for sharing!

Beautiful! More pics???

KE26 Name: Jose Garro Car: 1974 KE26 2 door Toyota Corolla station wagon Engine & Driveline: standard 3K 1200 engine with 4 speed gearbox Suspension and Brakes: standard suspension with drum in each corner Wheels & Tires: 13 inch Formula Wheels (Minilite like wheels) with Firestone 205/60 tires Interior & Body: Standard I'm from Costa Rica, and I found this car thanks to a Facebook group. It has 24.000 original km (15.000 miles), no rust and everything (except the wheels) is as the factory put on it. The car was stored almost all it's life, and now I'm the second owner and the responsible for keep it like this. Plans are save money for a full respray (the color was red from factory, but now looks like a dark pink in the sun), change all the suspension rubber, rebuild the brakes, change the clutch and enjoy it a lot! With my 1974 KE20 four door sedan for a family pic

Looks like an old Momo Montecarlo from the 70s, like the ones fitted on the 914 Porsche. Picture only for reference. No logos front or back? Made in Italy missing? Could be a copy... http://www.spoilershop.com.au/front/steeringwheels/montecarlo.jpg

Hi everyone! I need help with the timing for my 1973 Toyota Corolla State. It has the 3K engine with about 60.000km (I overhauled it about 8 years ago), the carburator is the stock item for this Corollas and everything is mostry OEM. About 2 months ago, I installed a Pertronix electronic module in the distributor, because points are hard to get in this times (and I'm getting tired of buying this part). According to the Pertronix site, I keep the resistance in the coil. Also, set the timing (with a timing light gun) to about 8° BTDC and put the octane selector in the zero setting (according to the Toyota manual), and set the iddle to about 800-850 rpm. However, under load and above 3.000rpm I can hear the engine pinging, the car has not power in the upper band and the economy is not the better. I try to solve this putting the initial ignition setting in 5° and keep playing with the octane selector, but the results are not the best (keeps pinging under load). When it had points, this problem didn't existed. I also have a 1959 VW Beetle with a 1600cc dual carb engine and mechanical electronic distributor. For setting the ignition, many VW web sites advises to set the ignition to 30-32° BTDC at 3000rpm, and ignore the iddle setting (it falls were it must). Thinking in this line, have any of you information about the maximun advance setting for the ignition (and rpm for this) in a 3K engine??? For your information, in my country (Costa Rica) we have 88 and 91 octane fuel...I generally use the 91 octane fuel for my car. Keep in mind my engine is mostly stock, only modifications are the electronic module in the dissy, and 4 into 1 exhaust header. The carb is in perfect condition, and also the distributor (everything is working as it should), the coil is almost new with the resistance working and there is no leaks or similar in the hoses. The car is used as a 40 years old car must be used, with care and respect (I know this is not a sport car or modern car), but this pinging sound, the lack of power in the upper rpm and the high consumption keeps me worried. Any help will be usefull...and thanks in advance for your time! Jose Garro Costa Rica

Amazing! Congratulations for your purchase! Please share more pictures!

Hi everyone! My name is Jose Garro, and I'm from Costa Rica, Central America. Last year, I bought a 1974 KE20 from a friend's uncle. In general, the car is in a very solid state, and because of previous modifications, has good potencial as a project. It has a 5k engine, a 5 speed T50 tranny, and a OEM brake booster (I believe from a newer Corolla or Starlet). The previous owner put in a set of wide 12" wheels, with low profile tires, and because the bad roads we have in Costa Rica, the suspension (bushings, dampers) and the underbody was in a very bad condition. Also, all the body rubber is, literally speaking, toasted, and the rust problems tipical of this Corollas are present and in very advance state: airbox, firewall, around the wheel openings, in the floor, in all the doors (in the lower parts), around the front and rear windshields, and in the trunk. The electrical was another nightmare, with bad wires, incorrect connections, and so on. My plan is, in a period of (hope for) 2 years, restore it using new or OEM parts, but with a few upgrades. To this date, this is a short list of the work I'm done: - Suspension: new KYB dampers, arms and tie rods, and new bushings all around, keep the stock front springs and rear leafs. I need to replace the pitman and idler arm, working on it. - Brakes: reconditioned drums and brake cylinders, new brake shoes, new hand brake cables, replaced brake fluid. - Engine: new water pump, belt, spark plugs, filters, oil, restored electronic distributor, new distributor cables, regulator and coil, new mounts, new OEM carburator. - Transmission: new OEM clutch kit, replaced oil, new mount. - Electrical: new engine bay's electrical installation, new connectors, proper wire to the alternator, starter and battery, reconditioned starter and alternator, new battery, cleaned and checked all the interior (under the dash) wires, connections and switches, new ground connections. - Lights: New H4 sealed beams, OEM front and fender turning lights, OEM rear lights and license lights. - Body exterior: painted all the exterior plastic parts, SR5 grille, Formula 13" wheels (I can't afford real Minilites) with new Firestone 205/60 tires, lowered suspension in the back using wood blocks, installed a used but like new Cusco strut tower bar, new mirrors. - Interior: new OEM dash pad from Japan, reconditioned dash plastic parts, Nardi 36cm leather steering wheel, OEM like new steering column plastic cover, made a new tray behind the rear seat, new seat belts, cleaned and reconditioned gauge cluster, new 5 speed engraved shift knob, new OEM interior light/mirror combo. - Other: cleaned and checked the fuel tank and lines, did a water pressure wash in the underbody and repaired (temporaly) with glass fibre all the rust holes in the floor and trunk. At this moment, the car is driveable again, and passed with flying colors the local inspection. The engine has lots of torque and is very economical, but because of the stock differential, the terminal speed is low, 120 kph tops, beyond that the aerodynamic instability and small carburator put a solid wall to the fun. With the new tires, the handling is good, but no brilliant. I'm working in a dash central piece, my idea is recreate the Levin/Trueno part, using VDO gauges (tach, ampmeter and oil pressure) in place of the stock radio, and instead of the heater controls, I plan to create a mini glove compartment for put in small items, like the cell phone or glasses. Also, I like to test front fender flares for cover properly the front wheels (with this wheel and 205/60 tire combo, the front wheels excel about 1 inch of the fenders). I'm looking for all the windshield (front, rear) rubber, also for the doors and the door's glass, a good condition rear bumper (the actual has damage from a old accident and is very rusted because of the tailpipe) and a proper accelerator pedal. In the near future, I plan to make all the electrical system new, my idea is update it to make more room for other items, like a modern radio and amplifier, an alarm, internal lights, etc., using relays, an updated alternator and actual technology. Also, the seats need to be upholstered, and I want to upgrade all the suspension bushings using urethane (of similar) parts. And then, I need to save big money for repair all the rust problems, and at the same time, add reinforcements using bars in strategic points, my idea is to gain structural stifness but without using a proper roll cage. And of course, paint it in a period correct color (the actual color is very, let me say, colorful, and not period correct). But I'm thinking in a 2 year period for do this. I like to thank all the people of this forum for their help, advice and of course, OEM parts (I can't remember all their names, so please forgive me). And of couse, some photos of my car...hope you like it!

Really really love your car Gavin! The color, the Superlites, the overall stance! Just finished to read all the threads, I can't imagine how hard has been the work in your car, and the pride you must fell now you drive it to everywhere! Hope to start my restoration project next year, but unlike you, in my country (Costa Rica, Central America) you can't go to some place and ask the people working there to fix your car :-( Looks like the old men that worked in those cars are all retired, and today kids can't repair anything without a laptop on hand, a situation really sad... And because of the age (30+ years), is simply too dificult to source OEM pieces...so the Internet is my ally and this forum has been really helpful for information and sources of OEM parts I need for my KE20. Keep going! Jose Costa Rica 1974 KE20

Name: Jose Car: 1974 KE20 4 doors sedan 5K 1500 engine with 5 speed tranny, maybe of a 80's Starlet Stock front suspension, lowered rear suspension, stock front sway bar, urethane bushings all around Stock drum brakes in each corner, Starlet (80's???) brake booter 5 holes telephone dial 12inch wheels, with Yokohama 165/60R12 tires Interior and body: in much need of love! I bought this car from a friend's uncle, the only owner since new. It has no structural damage, only the known rust problems of every KE2x. My plan is to restore it to (I hope) factory condition, but with a few upgrades, like front disc brakes, 13 or 14inch wheels (minilite style) and reinforcements bars under the fenders, in the engine compartment and the trunk, so it can gain structural stifness. I'm planning a full body and interior redo for the next year, with a new color and materials, and new rubbers (windshields, door's glass) as well.