foc64

2TG pistons have a higher crown compared to 2tc pistons, this is to make up for the extra combustion chamber volume on the 2tg head. Running a standard 2tc bottom end with the 2tg head will give you a very low compresion ratio. You also need to block off the cam bearing oil feed in the block closest to the fly wheel (just install a new cam bearing in 180 degrees to cover up the oil feed hole in the cam tunnel) as the 2tg dummy cam used to run the oil pump, distributor etc is shorter than the 2tc cam. Failiure to do this mod means your new engine will suffer major oil pressure issues as all the oil feeding the main bearings gets sprayed out of the now unused cam bearing oil supply hole in the cam bearing tunnel. Incidentally, I have read that you can used a late model 2tc block with a 3tc crank to get an 1800cc 3tg motor but you may have to clearance the bottom of the cylinder bores to clear the edge of the con rod bolts. Chris

My understanding is that you only need a large diameter pipe from your turbo to carry the exhast gas away from the motor/turbo, this allows the exhaust flow to change to an axial flow pattern (meaning it will exit faster = better flow). Once this has been established your large pipe only needs to run for around 18 to 24 inches (457 to 609 mm), you can them reduce the pipe diamiter with out reducing the exhaust gas flow. If you can find it, look out for a book called Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes published by HP Books (ISBN 0-912656-49-2). The book has been around for years but has heaps of relivent turbo info. Chris

Could also be leaking from the rear of the oil pump to block area (current problem I have with my 4ac motor). As Sam Q said you need to remove all your belts, crank pully etc to get to this to replace the crank oil seal and you will have to do the same amount of work to fix the oil pump leak if this is what your problem is.

My guess is you have a 32/36 DGAV weber from a Cortina or similar (2Ltr motor) so if you have this on a 1200cc engine it's no wonder it's running rich - no amount of idle mixture adjustment will change this, what you need to do is first establish what your current jetting is e.g emulsion tube, idle jets size, main jet size, air corrector size, pump jet size to do this you need to remove the top of the carb and unscrew the jets t ocheck the sizes (all the info will be stamped on the side of the jets). Once you know this you will know what needs to be changed (smaller jets probably). As a guide Ford used a 23/36 DFAV Carb on the 1300cc GT Escort (very similar Carb to the DGAV) jetting as follows: Primary Emulsion Tube - F50 (Cortina - F6) Secondary Emulsion Tube - F6 (Cortina - F6) Primary Main Jet - 1.25 (Cortina - 1.40) Secondary Main Jet - 1.30 (Cortina - 1.35) Primary Air Corrector - 1.80 (Cortina - 1.70) Secondary Air Corrector - 1.95 (Cortina - 0.70) Primary Idle Jet - 0.55 (Cortina - 0.55) Secondary Idle Jet - 0.50 (Cortina - 0.45) Pump Jet - 0.55 (Cortina - 0.65) Needle Valve - 2.00 (Cortina - 2.00) As a starting point I would change the jetting to the same as the 1300cc Escort GT ones, from there you can fine tune and fine tune. One last point, the Cortina Carb has slightly larger primary and secondary venturi's (26/27mm compared to the Escort - 23/24mm) but this shouldn't make a difference for your application. good luck and remember to make notes of any changes you make, and most importantly only make ONE change at a time and then test before making the next one, might sound obvious but this is the biggest reason why people give up on carb jetting as they can't establish what was a good change or a bad one. Chris

Here you go: http://winterpalace.customer.netspace.net.au/ Link from Johnny's page the info is self explanatory realy you just need the diff number from your cars build plate, or if you think the diff's been changed you'll need to count the teeth on the crown wheel and pinon and then divide on in to the other. If you're lucky you may find the numbers stamped in to the edge of the crown wheel - saves having to count teeth under the car (not much fun). Chris

Steve I've just done this in my wagon over the week end (well finished it). Fronts - a set of 5 1/4 splits mounted in a pod on the door (no cut out in to the door cavity). What I found was this set up give a significantly better sound than if I vented the speakers in to the door space and I think this is due to the smaller air volume in the door pod (the 5 1/4 woofer can't handle a larger volume of air). Rears - 1 pair of 6 1/2 3 way Kenwood's mounted in the rear side panels, basicly I've made a new set of side panels from 3mm ply wood and fibreglass with a 12mm MDF mounting ring built in to hold the speaker and add support to the mounting face. I've used good thick speaker cable all the way round (from Jaycar for a few $$ a metre). So far it sounds great, the next step is to add a subby and a dedicated amp. If I were you I'd mount your 6x9's in the side panels as this much weight on the tail gate would stuff up your tail gate gas struts and also the weight alone of the 6x9's in the tailgate would be enough to tear them selfs loose when you slammed the tail gate closed. You're best bet is to pull the side panels off and have a good look at the room available in this area, the drivers side should be OK, the pasenger side will be more difficult due to the jack and tools etc stored in there. Good Luck and just get in there and have a go, I'll post a few pic's of my set up in a few days. Chris

Cheers Guys I had a feeling the crank bolt was a left hand thread, but seams I'm wrong. Looks like I'll just need a longer extention bar on my socket (the 4 foot long pipe I've used before works a treat - thank God for old school Sidcrome tough as nails socket sets). Chris

After looking through endless web pages for information on a cheap brake upgrade, and not finding anything useful (some people have a different view on what “cheap” is – my definition is as cheap as possible) I’ve decided to throw this article together. My set up (not yet cleaned and painted) http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00002.jpg Close up: http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00003.jpg I’ve used T18 struts as the basis of my upgrade as they are fairly easy to find (compared to AE86 struts) and they’re 51mm in diameter and this means strut inserts that fit AE86’s, Celica’s, Coronas etc will fit these. Parts needed: Suitable front struts, in my case from a T18, but you can use the existing struts. VB to VK Commodore Girlock brake callipers – cheap and easy to find, rebuild kits are dirt-cheap and you can take your pick of brake pads (from cheap and nasty to race spec pads). New or good used brake discs from a Mitsubishi Magna – TN, TM or TP – the early model before the V6 Magnas came out and 24mm Thick!! – they look big and meaty on the work bench! Depending on the type of calliper on your standard struts, you may have to make or get made up an adaptor to bolt up the Commodore callipers. If you’re lucky, your standard brake callipers will be Girlock with a 75mm mounting distance between bolt centres. If this is the case you probably won’t need the adaptor as the Commodore calliper also use the same bolt spacing and already have a bigger offset built in to cater for the original Commodore (disc) set up. You need to slightly mod the calliper slider (the part that bolts to the mounting bracket) as it catches on the edge of the strut when you try to bolt it up, you’ll see what I mean when you try it on the strut for the first time (look at the photo to see how I fixed mine) I ground off a little metal with a bench grinder, taking a little off at a time so I didn’t remove any more metal than I had too. The slider is very solid and the small amount of metal I removed won’t affect its strength (but check with your local transport organization if you’re concerned). Calliper mod: http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00005.jpg One last thing you will need is 4 x 4mm wide spacers to suit 12mm bolts. I got some made up out of alloy but you may be lucky and find a suitable washer off the shelf some were. Just remember if you use second hand discs you can get away with thinner washers (just) but if you upgrade to new discs latter on you’ll find your calliper mounting brackets rub on the outside of the disc (trust me – I used old discs to set up my brakes to start with and found this out once I installed my new discs). Calliper slider, adaptor bracket and 4mm spacers assembled: http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00001.jpg Brake building 101: If you have one, mount your strut on a bench in a strong vice and unbolt the original brakes and hub assembly. Once the hub is off the strut you need to unbolt the disc from the hub – only 4 bolts and a gentle tap with a hammer to slip them off – if you can’t get them off with a gentle tap you haven’t undone all 4 bolts so check again. Now degrease your hubs, if you intend on using longer wheel studs now’s the time to remove the old ones – early model Hilux 4wd and drum brake Land Cruiser studs are about 8mm longer and fit with a small adjustment (plus there cheap – mine cost $4 each for new studs from a 4wd shop, they do need about 3mm of the spline ground down so the studs will fit in to the hubs) Now you need to get your hubs turned down to 142mm outside diameter so the new discs can slip over the top of them. Don’t worry about the centre hole being too big, the studs and the slip fit over the hub will keep the disc in place once the wheel and wheel nuts are fitted. Mounting brackets. I made my bracket from a length of steel bar: 10mm (thick) X 40mm (wide) X 150mm (long) ($6 from Sims Metal for a 1 mtr) with 4x12.5mm (or ½” in old measurements) holes centred on the bracket to give the correct mounting points (look at the pic of the bracket for a better idea). As there is a slight difference in mounting offset with the new calliper, you need 2 x 4mm wide spacers (per calliper). The ones I have are made from Alloy but steel will do just fine, the only critical dimension to note is that they must be 4mm wide. Any less any you run the chance of new disc rotors rubbing on the inside edge of the mounting bracket (new discs are 24mm thick!!). http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00004.jpg Calliper hose: If you’re car has Girlock brakes already you can run the same hoses on the new brake set up (threads should be the same & the calliper to hose mount should be fine as well). Master cylinder upgrades: I haven’t looked in to this yet but the ex-Commodore callipers should be a similar bore size to the old Corolla ones meaning the brake pedal feel and travel will be the same as before (except the car will pull up significantly better with no fade). Other things to think about: If you’ve gone this far why not spend a bit more and replace the wheel bearings, ball joints and bushes? All up these parts won’t cost that much but worn parts will effect the ride and handling significantly and any wear problems you had before will be increased once you bolt up the bigger and better brakes. Cheers Chris

Hi Slapper Can you tell me which way (left or right when looking at the bolt) the crank bolt comes undone? I have the same job to do and nee to know this before I spend 1/2 a day trying to tighten the bolt up (rather than loosen it off). Chris

Hey, Flatout, where did you see this - 1 ae71 wagon for sale baby blue didnt have a price and have you/can you get a contact number? Cheers Chris

Check your mixtures, it sounds like it's running lean to me, your idle stage needs to be spot on as it not only controls the idle mixtures but also affects the midrange until your main jets come on strong (about 3000rpm and up). Try a Google search for Weber jetting as there's heaps of info available if you look. You should also check your fuel pump/fuel pressure as this is another area that can cause the symptoms you're experiencing and will stop the engine from revving freely Good luck Chris

Found - an F20C motor for $38.53 USD (but not quite big enough for the AE71) http://www.hlj.com/product/SAK3307

I've herd that you can use the distributor from a Mitsubishi Astron motor (Sigmas, Scorpions and possibly Magnas?) but you will need to swap the drive gear over (use the gear from the original 4age distributor). This set up will give you and electronic distributor with vacuum advance for a good price. I've been lead to believe that the advance curve on these distributors is fairly close to what you need as well, any one come across this set up before? Chris

Harley I used early model Toyota Hilux 4wd disc brake wheel studs on my T18 hubs. They work out to be around 8mm longer than standard corolla studs and are the same thread (12mmX1.5mm I think - Nissans etc are diffrent - 12mmX1.75m?). The only thing that needs modifing on the Hilux studs is the spline at the base of the stud, it's longer on the Hilux one compaired to the corrolla - once you see them up close youll understand. I carefully ground mine down a few millimetres on the bench grinder before installing them (Big hammer and a steel block on the back side of the hub with a 12.5mm clearance hole for the stud to fit through). TO remove the old studs you need to pull your hubs off the car and either heat them up around the studs with a blow tourch/oxy set and then tap out with a hammer. YOu could try this with out heating up, just remember to support the back of the hub on a vise or something, also if you do irt this way you will completly stuff the threads on the old studs (run a spare wheel nut on them and aim for this with the hammer if you want to keep them). One last thourght - if you decide to use Hilux studs, please don't buy them from your Toyota dealer unless you have a fat wallet, I got mine for about $3-$4 each from a Four Wheel Drive wrecker/parts place (brand new studs). Chris

I asked about the same thing at my local suspension place, the guy there told me they are available and start at 25mm (1 inch in old measurements) and go up from there, I'll be ordering 1.5 inch lowering blocks. The suspension guy said they make these up to 4 inchs (for the mini truck guys I guess). Chris

A friend of mine would class this as and electrical problem, namely the rod took out the electrics on the way out of the block!

I'm running 14" RT132 Corona steelies with 185/60 x 14" tyres. Not sure if this would work as is on KE30 struts but from what I've seen the struts look very similar to the T18 ones I have. The worst case would be you need a diffrent caliper mounting bracket (looking in to this). I haven't tried it but I've heasrd that you may be able to fit some 13" mags over this brake set up, not all but most!!. Chris

VHR32 - There is still plenty of hub "sticking out" to locate the centre of the wheel, I haven't measured it but the disc centre (at a guess) would be 4 -5 mm. Most hub/wheel combos rely on the wheel centre sitting over the hub just right and this shouldn't chage because of the disc width. Just remember that wheels not intended (originally) for a toyota may have a larger centre bore and may not sit on the the hub (as intended). One thing I didn't say in my first post is that I'm using longer wheel studs (for adisc brake hilux 4x4). Hilux studs are 8mm longer and have the same spline and thread size (12mm x1.25mm) The only thing to keep in mind is the spline at the base of the stud is longer and this will need carful grinding back to shorten it before you install the new studs. From memory the Corolla stud's spline is 4mm wide but the Hilux on is around 7 or 8mm, and yes it is advisable to shorten the spline length as the stud won't seat properly other wise. tas ae71 - Haven't got any plans to make up the adaptor plates, but I have an idea to redesign them so you don't need the 4mm wide caliper spacers, just need tot time to look in to it more. Chris

Yes, early 4 stud Magnas have the same bolt pattern, just a difffrent off set for the front wheel drive arrangement. Chris

Hi All, here's my first how to, not sure if the pics will work but here go's. Cheap brake upgrade for RWD Corollas (AE71 or similar). After looking through endless web pages for information on a cheap brake upgrade, and not finding anything useful (some people have a different view on what “cheap†is – my definition is as cheap as possible) I've decided to throw this article together. My set up (not yet cleaned and painted) http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00002.jpg Close up: http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00003.jpg I've used T18 struts as the basis of my upgrade as they are fairly easy to find (compared to AE86 struts) and they're 51mm in diameter and this means strut inserts that fit AE86's, Celica's, Coronas etc will fit these. Parts needed: Suitable front struts, in my case from a T18, but you can use the existing struts. VB to VK Commodore Girlock brake callipers – cheap and easy to find, rebuild kits are dirt-cheap and you can take your pick of brake pads (from cheap and nasty to race spec pads). New or good used brake discs from a Mitsubishi Magna – TN, TM or TP – the early model before the V6 Magnas came out and 24mm Thick!! – they look big and meet on the work bench! Depending on the type of calliper on your standard struts, you may have to make or get made up an adaptor to bolt up the Commodore callipers. If you're lucky, your standard brake callipers will be Girlock with a 75mm mounting distance between bolt centres. If this is the case you probably won't need the adaptor as the Commodore calliper also use the same bolt spacing and already have a bigger offset built in to cater for the original Commodore (disc) set up. You need to slightly mod the calliper slider (the part that bolts to the mounting bracket) as it catches on the edge of the strut when you try to bolt it up, you'll see what I mean when you try it on the strut for the first time (look at the photo to see how I fixed mine) I ground off a little metal with a bench grinder, taking a little off at a time so I didn't remove any more metal than I had too. The slider is very solid and the small amount of metal I removed won't affect its strength (but check with your local transport organization if you're concerned). Calliper mod: http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00005.jpg One last thing you will need is 4 x 4mm wide spacers to suit 12mm bolts. I got some made up out of alloy but you may be lucky and find a suitable washer off the shelf some were. Just remember if you use second hand discs you can get away with thinner washers (just) but if you upgrade to new discs latter on you'll find your calliper mounting brackets rub on the outside of the disc (trust me – I used old discs to set up my brakes to start with and found this out once I installed my new discs). Calliper slider, adaptor bracket and 4mm spacers assembled: http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00001.jpg Brake building 101: If you have one, mount your strut on a bench in a strong vice and unbolt the original brakes and hub assembly. Once the hub is off the strut you need to unbolt the disc from the hub – only 4 bolts and a gentle tap with a hammer to slip them off – if you can't get them off with a gentle tap you haven't undone all 4 bolts so check again. Now degrease your hubs, if you intend on using longer wheel studs now's the time to remove the old ones – early model Hilux 4wd and drum brake Land Cruiser studs are about 8mm longer and fit with a small adjustment (plus there cheap – mine cost $4 each for new studs from a 4wd shop, they do need about 3mm of the spline ground down so the studs will fit in to the hubs) Now you need to get your hubs turned down to 142mm outside diameter so the new discs can slip over the top of them. Don't worry about the centre hole being too big, the studs and the slip fit over the hub will keep the disc in place once the wheel and wheel nuts are fitted. Mounting brackets. I made my bracket from a length of steel bar: 10mm (thick) X 40mm (wide) X 150mm (long) ($6 from Sims Metal for a 1 mtr) with 4x12.5mm (or ½†in old measurements) holes centred on the bracket to give the correct mounting points (look at the pic of the bracket for a better idea). As there is a slight difference in mounting offset with the new calliper, you need 2 x 4mm wide spacers (per calliper). The ones I have are made from Alloy but steel will do just fine, the only critical dimension to note is that they must be 4mm wide. Any less any you run the chance of new disc rotors rubbing on the inside edge of the mounting bracket (new discs are 24mm thick!!). http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/fo.../Image00004.jpg Calliper hose: If you're car has Girlock brakes already you can run the same hoses on the new brake set up (threads should be the same & the calliper to hose mount should be fine as well). Master cylinder upgrades: I haven't looked in to this yet but the ex-Commodore callipers should be a similar bore size to the old Corolla ones meaning the brake pedal feel and travel will be the same as before (except the car will pull up significantly better with no fade). Other things to think about: If you've gone this far why not spend a bit more and replace the wheel bearings, ball joints and bushes? All up these parts won't cost that much but worn parts will effect the ride and handling significantly and any wear problems you had before will be increased once you bolt up the bigger and better brakes. Cheers Chris

I would think the glass is tempered, meaning it can't be cut or trimmed like normal glass. It's done that way so it will shatter in to small pieces if broken (as in an accident etc). Chris

I found this link while looking for a 4age 16V ignitor part number, may be helpful to some: http://www.celicatech.com/Colossus20v/20valveparts.html If any one can help with a Toyota part number for a 4age 16v ignitor I'd appreciate it. Chris

Hi All I'm going to be undertaking a 4age swap in my AE71 Wagon soon and have a question about Engine looms. As 4age looms are getting a little thin on the ground, can I use a 4afe EFI Engine loom instead? I need to know if this loom will plug in to a 4age big port computer, not fussed about re-wiring the loom it's the ECU plugs that are hard to find. Chris