lexsmaz

If it had a blown Alt fuse & ECU fuse I'm guessing someone has possibly re-fitted the battery incorrectly ( reversed the polarity / put the leads on ass about ) or has jump started the car with a dead flat battery & managed to put the jumper leads on ass about & if that's the case it could possibly have blown up / fried the ECU too ... As has been said check for spark at the plugs & listen for the fuel pump or get someone to crank it over & feel the rubber fuel line & If the pump is working you will feel the line swell slightly & also get hold of an injector tester pulse tester or multi meter to see If you are getting pulses at the injectors ..

You lost me a bit but from what i can gather that you are saying the reverse lights wires were not even connected to the switch when you first looked at it .. You say there is no signal from the switch, is that with the wires on ? as the switch on its own will do nothing, one of the wires should have 12 volts to it & the other wire will go down the back to the reverse light globes .. So check which of the 2 wires at the switch has 12 volts to it & go from there, if no power check all the fuses ..

What is the carby balance like ? the carby that is running rich could be doing more work & with possibly the jetting being to rich then causes the fouling ? ..

I would say the second starter motor you fitted has a faulty starter motor solenoid & is bridging internally causing the car to turn over as soon as the battery is connected, but the fault is intermittent hence it not doing it now ... Remove that starter motor & discard it ... With your other starter motor the 3 wire one before you refit it hook up jumper leads to it, so you need the earth lead on the Starter body & the positive lead on the solenoid terminal with the nut on it, then get a 4mm wire or so & bridge it from the positive terminal / jumper lead to the blade terminal on the solenoid, hold the starter well & it might initially spark when you connect it but also should throw the pinion out & spin too .. The other short wire you mention should be for a feedback wire possibly to the ignition coil to help starting when cranking ... If the starter doesn't spin when you connect the spade terminal disconnect it & try bridging the short wire, as it could really be either wire that energises the solenoid, if it doesn't spin / work with either wire the starter is faulty ..

Its not only a matter of hiding it the crankcase fumes that come out of that filter are the worst fumes a car can expel, I would be putting it into the air cleaner .. You have lost me with the "OS" reference regarding the carby / PCV hose you need to check if its got Vacuum there all the time, the other thing you could do is put a T piece in the vacuum hose to the brake booster & run the PCV hose to that, if you do that put the T piece down near the Manifold ..

The hose that goes to the Carby, its hard to see is it connected to the carby above or below the butterfly, as It should be below the butterfly & have constant vacuum applied to it & actually its normally runs off a vacuum fitting in the manifold .. The second hose should go into the air cleaner, either through the top or bottom as the way it is now you could get a defect notice as its Venting to the atmosphere the crankcase fumes ..

Have you got a good earth supply from the battery to the motor & have you tried supplying power straight to the starter motor solenoid wire to see if it will crank over, isolates if its the starter or the wiring to it ..

Not sure what happened to my Text couldn't get rid of the line through it !! I think you will find that the Air pulse valve for the exhaust is leaking back into the air cleaner housing . Does the air filter smell like exhaust gasses & does the car sound like it has a exhaust leak under the bonnet with the engine idling ..

Just had another look at your Pic & of your Vacuum delete !! looks like you have No chimney off your exhaust manifold for the Stove pipe to connect to & you probably don't have any vacuum source for the air cleaner hot air flap now either .. None of those existing vacuum lines actually robbed power or the like they just make the car run better !! Do you still have the Vacuum advance connected to your Carby ?? If it was me I would be going down to the wreckers & see if you can get a chimney off a exhaust manifold to fit your car & hook up a vacuum source & a Vacuum delay valve to your air cleaner housing & fit a stove pipe too ..

I think you will find that the carby is icing up around the throttle butterfly area, hence cold mornings & stalling only once & then its fine, I have experienced it on quite a few cars over the years, you can sometimes actually see if you are quick enough after it stalls the ice around the outside of the carby base & if not just feel it & it will be super Cold .. First thing to do is make sure your Stove / Hot air pipe off the exhaust to the air cleaner is there & working & the flap if its adjustable is set to Winter, sometimes too if the carby throttle butterfly linkage are worn badly It can make things a bit worse too, but the Stove pipe is number one ... To test the theory if you let the car stall & so no air flow the ice will melt after about 10-15 seconds & the car will be fine after that, I you don't let it stall out it will carry on idling poorly for quite a while until there is enough heat soak in the carby & engine bay etc to melt off the ice .. That's a Impressive Mechanic saying to adjust your throttle cable !!!!! Gives us Mechanics a bad name ..

As has been said, I would put a T piece into your brake booster Vac line & hook up the line running from your rocker cover which still has the PCV valve in it & I think the best other option with the breather / filter on your rocker cover is to replace the air filters units totally with 2 of the paper style side draught carby ones that used to be around years ago, ( I assume they are still available ) they have a metal base & metal top & you could hook up a fitting for the breather into the base or top of the metal plates .. I think if you hook it up to the Carbon canister it wont pass, plus you still have not got any way of drawing the fumes back out of the carbon canister as you wont have any Vac line to that at the moment either ... Having the PCV system working & all fitted up is a good thing as it draws out Noxious fumes, which are really bad to breathe in & also helps keep the oil a bit cleaner too, helps a bit in stopping sludge formation ..

When you tried arcing the starter motor what did you actually do, did you run jumper leads down the main battery wire ( the big one ) & then bridge over to the solenoid wire to try & fire it up or just bridge the main wire to the starter solenoid wire & as has been asked how good is the battery & earth connections & or jumper leads & is there any dash lights on with ignition on ..

The Alfa motor could be ok, but not the best motor out there though, hope you don't mind oil leaks too !! Also originally it had the clutch down the rear with the Gear box, so you will need a custom bell housing & flywheel too & need to obviously put something other than the Alfa gear box behind the motor too ..

Personally if you only want to go a NA 1JZ you would be better off with a Beams motor or equivalent, as has been said a Very Big job & depends on wether you are doing the work your self or paying someone ..