lexsmaz

You have no idea of the cars I have & have owned & my history & yes I still have some of the 1jz variants in some cars & you say its merely coincidence & hard luck ???? .. Yes you are a Fnnn Tosser & I'm sure a wanna be too ...

doesn't overly concern me, but I had singled him out in a earlier post & you hadn't been on here for a while .. And not worth replying to this last comment as it just makes it drag on ..

So what seals fail ?? as in front input shaft seal or ??

I wasn't sure if he was referring to me ?? & so I came back with a response & then thought stuff it he's not worth it & getting into to & froing & so deleted the post ..

Decided to delete this last post ..

oh what a Nissan, I Disagree with you about the 1JZ you have either been in a shit 1JZ or a turbo Hyundai ... What size rear housing are you talking about on the GT30 & when does it start to spool ? & at what RPM does it achieve max boost, I agree the GT30 possibly has more top end, but would doubt the low down ability, I assume you are talking about the twin turbo motor & have you seen how small yet effective the C12A turbo's are ..

I'm a 100% with you in that laggy set ups are just a waste, I was at a dyno day years ago & there was a guy there with a skyline with about 400 odd RWKW & I said to him what's it like on the street & he said pretty bad & that a hyundai would probably run him till about 100 kmh as the lag was that bad !! to me that's a dyno queen as its useless on the street .... You hear some guys say its great with big turbo's in that you can drive around the streets off boost ( so basically its like a low comp NA motor !!!! ) what a waste & slow & boring too, great above 4000 but what's the point for a street car .. Once you drive a well set up turbo ( generally factory ) you wont look at a NA motor the same .. unfortunately there isn't anything out there to store the boost, there are by pass systems to help the turbo re-spool quicker between gear changes but that is it unless you run a compound turbo set up .. 5 psi or above you will feel the car start to pull well, making maximum boost say around 10 - 12 psi by about 2,500 to 3000 rpm is a very good set up, the Toyota 1JZGTE VVTI Turbo Motor makes maximum torque by 2,400 RPM, so basically maximum boost which I think factory is around 9 psi at 2,400 rpm ..

With just the 2 pulley's acting as a overdrive for the turbo compressor you would not get enough RPM from just the pulley's to get the turbo to start to work, as the turbo needs to be around 60,000 plus RPM to make boost & a lot will run up to 100,000 RPM .. Even at 10 -1 gearing as an example & say the Engine is doing 2,000 RPM the turbo will only be at 20,000 & If the turbo is selected well it should be just on making some boost by itself then any way with out any other external driving force ..

Interesting work Bowler, no 5 minute job that for sure !! how much did it improve your fan speed .. Just read your link, did you go with less windings ..

If you can't pull the cable back far enough to fit the spacer sleeve ( & no one is putting any load on the clutch pedal at the same time ) it then sounds like the cable & wear in the linkages is not the problem & I would say you have a clutch release issue & in my eyes most probably a cracked / faulty clutch Diaphragm as I mentioned before .. Read my earlier post carefully when i explained about checking the clutch take up & release etc & try & follow the procedure as it will help to diagnose the fault & get back to us with your results ..

Ok, that's further away than what I was thinking :) Good to see your taking the time to look for possible issues, but I think you are making things hard for your self, as I'm sure they all have slop here & there in the pedals etc due to the age of the cars, but have you actually tried fitting the spacer nut as mentioned by quite a few people as slop can be taken up by basically cheating like that & it will work perfectly fine, if wear & stretched cable are the only issue's, but i'm guessing there is probably more to it than that though in your case ( as in the clutch diaphragm is now faulty ) ..

I was sure that there are people out there that can build New clutch cables & I found out today that in Melbourne its a crowd called "Speedscreen" i'm not sure where you are, but at worst there is postage .. But do the sleeve test first to ascertain that it is the cable & nothing else before you order a new cable .. PS, they might need your old one as a sample if you do end up getting one..

Don't over complicate the issue at the moment, just put the spacer in as has been mentioned & test the clutch then as I'm guessing it could be an issue with the clutch diaphragm, but if putting the spacer in fixes it then leave it in or do something then, but big job to put a hydraulic system on it & you need to mount the slave cylinder to the gearbox too which is probably going to be the biggest issue & also redesign the end of the clutch fork to take a push rod from the slave cylinder, unless there are compatible gearboxes out there ..

No wires = no warning, if the Brake warning light glows dimly all the time as you said it sounds like there is a earth issue as in wires pinched or such ..

You talked about taking the flywheel off to fit it on the engine stand & i presume you took it off, so i would say its the flywheel is the culprit, it must have been dragging on something, possibly the wrong flywheel .. The lifter's you mentioned would not be the cause especially since they fell out themselves proves they are not that seized & without the head on nothing is pushing them back, so once pushed up if they were seized the motor would be free to turn in that spot ..

How hard is it to turn over, give us an idea, if you grab the front crank pulley even with both hands can you turn over the motor or do you need use a ratchet on the crank bolt to turn it over .. If it is really tight then you will need to pull the sump off & i would pull the camshaft front cover off at the same time to & have a look in there to & if it appears ok then start removing bearing caps & inspecting as you go, I said throw in another motor as if its spun a bearing by the time you strip & machine all the parts its going to cost you heaps compared to a good running second hand motor ..

Its called a pressure differential switch, so it's not for low fluid level its for fluid pressure loss / difference between the front & rear brakes, the master cylinder piston ( or possibly in this case the proportioning piston ) will travel further down the bore if a pressure difference is present & it will trigger the switch to come on via a plunger type needle which hangs out the bottom of the switch & it will tell the driver by bringing on the light on the dash ..

Its a guess as to what it is, but rather than try & pull the sump off in the car just pull the motor out, it will be easier to work on then & if it is the flywheel dragging etc at least you will see it then too & if the flywheel area looks ok as far as dragging goes I would throw a second hand motor in it .. PS, with the head off you should be able to grab the front crank pulley & turn the motor over by hand with little effort ( basically it should have slight resistance / drag ) ..

How tight was it to turn over with the plugs out, if you have a socket & ratchet on the crank pulley & give it a quick heavy push down on the ratchet handle by about a 1/8 of a turn the motor crankshaft should basically over run the ratchet by around another 1/2 turn, give or take a bit .. Sounds like yours is tighter than that?? as you said you could undo the bell housing bolts, but if the motor cocks over on an angle it will load up the input shaft on the gearbox & could give you a false reading & I can't see clutch wise there being a problem there .. If you turn it over by hand can you hear any scraping noise around the back of the flywheel area .. If nothing seems obvious it sounds like the motor will need coming out ..

Remove the plugs again & try to turn it over by hand using the engine fan to turn the motor over, If it turns over easily then the motor is ok (it should turn over with only very light resistance ) if its tight then you have issues ... If it turns over easily then you either have a Dud starter motor, poor inferior main battery leads, or the battery is no good, even though you said its new, try using some good quality jumper leads on the battery before you actually remove the plugs & do the hand test ..

It does sound like its running lean, strange though that it comes good up top though as if it's running lean it should get worse the harder you push it ... Also i haven't done it for many years now but the last engine coolant temp sensor I disconnected with the motor running it went full rich & stalled & you said it seemed fine, makes you wonder if its getting an accurate signal ?? the one I tested wasn't a 4AGE though ..

Sorry but your last explanation lost me, a test to do to see if it's the cable or possibly the pressure plate diaphragm is to drive down the road under say light acceleration & keep your foot on the accelerator & at the same time you put your foot on the clutch & start to slowly push it towards the floor when does the clutch disengage as in start to slip, if it starts to slip as in rev a bit at a fairly high pedal position it sounds like the diaphragm is no good & you will need to change out the complete clutch, if it starts to slip half way down on the clutch pedal travel or even further the clutch cable is most likely the cause .. Just for your future information, its not recommended to just change the clutch disc as the pressure plate can crack after time & cause issues like you are having & also the thrust bearing definitely wears out too ..

If you did fit a resistor you would think it should work but I would also test both senders at the same operating temp as the resistance values might not then follow each other ?? from cold to hot .

You say you have issues going from 3rd to 2nd, does it crunch or is it tight to go in ? & is it worse the quicker you try it & have you tried it with the car stationery going from 3rd to 2nd engine on & engne off too & if so is it good then ??

Do you mind me asking how much you paid for it ..