lexsmaz

Nearly all cars back in the 70's & 80's & even probably a fair bit of the 90's had the same width rim & tyre combination on the front & the back, really only some of the exotic back in those days were the only ones to have different tyres front to back even the good old GT falcon ran the same rim & tyre front & back .. My old RX3 Mazda ( wish i still had it Now ) Came from the factory with 4.5 inch rims & from memory had either 155 or 165 tyres & it was no slouch of a car, it would top out at about 125MPH = 200KMH ( in standard form ) .. I could get 100 MPH = 160 KMH out of third gear .. I drove it many many years ago for a short time on the skinny tyres & boy was it dangerous in the wet, in nearly lost it badly up this winding hill, I was in 3rd gear at about 120kmh & it just broke into wheel spin !! probably more good luck than management but I managed to save it from hitting the guard rails .. It does make you wonder why the tyres were so skinny especially for something that was quite quick in its day, made for some fun driving in the dry though & just scary in the wet ..

Interesting that he is a member of this forum you say, but listed the gear knob on Gumtree, you would think he would list it here too ?? unless he was suss on the originality of the gear knob himself ??

Maybe she was just smelling her fingers for some other reason :) as the guy looks pretty keen for something ??

Did he have a picture of the gear knob on his original for sale thread & If he did & its the same as what he sent you then its described wrongly but you got what you saw, so probably its a bit of a stand off now ??

Also you could have rust holes etc inside the rear wheel arch on the inner skin & when you drive on wet roads the water gets flicked up & enters into the boot area, try running your hand under the guard & see what I feels like & have a look too & also spray water up there to clean off all the mud that usually collects there & check for leaks that way too ..

I would think by the time you pick them up, I'm guessing hiring a car trailer too plus fuel & then clean them up & unless you know you can get $500 plus I feel its not worth it & by the looks of them I'm sure you would struggle to get close to that ??

Hi, I used to work on them many years go at a Honda Dealership, they are surprisingly quick cars for what they are, as they are very light, the 4 doors Civic's run a 1500cc motor & the 3 door run a 1200cc motor .. Depending on what you want do with them ? they look to be only parts cars really .. As you were possibly eluding to generally the cheaper that cars are bought for the dearer it works out in the long run if you intend on restoring them to get them back on the road, basically spend good money to start with & spend less in the long run ...

If you want low to midrange grunt & don't want to spend a lot go with a C12A turbo but an original ceramic unmodified one as the rebuilt steel wheel turbo's are heavier & definitely laggier to drive on a 1J & so would be the same on a 4K & as you are not talking about using some 8K rev range would be more than fine, even ceramic turbo's in the 1J are good for around 7K RPM .. Makes me think sometimes why bother playing with an older car when something new like your son's Fiesta sounds so good, but to me its the different factor that I like ( most of the time :) )

Most of the 1j's I have had over the years have run stock turbo's & all went Very well for the street & even track use, my old 1J Corona had stock turbo's & motor etc had 199 RWKW at 10 PSI & pulled like a train & went like a cut cat at all RPM ranges & it was a blast to drive ... If you could get close to half that figure on a single C12A being that the motor is around half the capacity of a 1J that sounds pretty good to me & I'm not sure what some of you guys expect from it ?? as at the end of the day it is a small capacity motor & surely a street able combination is better than some laggy big turbo job ..

Couldn't agree more with parrot .. Also the seller talks about it being "Pretty straight" & is in primer ready to paint, firstly why paint a car that is pretty straight, surely you would get it straight first ?? & secondly you would need to strip it back to bare metal as primer is very porous & will absorb moisture from the air causing the underneath metal to start to rust & also what is the primer covering ?? Rust / poor repairs / etc etc ???..

All cars with drum brakes have an adjuster arrangement to set up the shoes close to the drums & if not working correctly the pedal travel is a lot more on the first brake application .. Also the brake shoe return spring strength is far greater than any small residual line pressure & if not for the adjuster the pistons would travel all the way back in & the pedal on the first application would be down near to the floor.. Disc's & drums have a totally different seal set up & cannot be compared against each other .. Personally if some of you guys are not to sure how it all works, my personal thoughts are better off not commenting & confusing the guy .. Super Jamie, I have always come across the residual valves inside the master cylinder ..

I would think if the master cylinders that you talk about never had a drum option for them its unlikely they will have a machined area inside the outlet ports to fit the residual pressure valve & so as you said just go the Wilwood option & if my memory serves me right the main function of the residual valve is to actually hold pressure against the back side of the wheel cylinder cup seals so the stay seated / sealed against the cylinder walls ...

Ok, each to their own as far as loosing low end power .. Bit hard to tell from the pic you have up with the Bridal ribbon's on the car but it looks like its on club rego ?? & If it is on Club rego try driving like a hoon etc on the track & not on the street & in that way you won't help destroy the club rego benefits that the rest of us enjoy & don't want to lose by people getting caught driving like idiot's on the road with the club rego in plain view & track use will make you a better driver, as anyone can put their foot down in a straight line or in a bit of the twisty's, but try doing that at higher speed on the track & I will sort the men out from the boys ..

What do you use the car for ? as I'm sure you know the more the aggressive the cam the more low down power you will loose & if driven on the street it will be pretty doughy low in the rev range & to me makes for a piggy / tiring car to drive around the streets in .. I have driven some big cam V8's on the street & they were pretty bad down low let alone something around a 1.5 litre capacity that hasn't much to start with .. Obviously every one likes different things & for track use it a different matter ..

You can get a thin fine tipped centre punch & place it near the outer edge of the domed bolt & then tap the centre punch & work your way around the head & undo it that way & then when you have it out cut a slot in the dome so you can tighten it up with a screw driver as has been said ..

I don't know what they are worth, but I would be wary of this one as He says not much rust in body & doesn't mention where or try to take photos of the said rust, he also mentions it doesn't bring unwanted attention, I assume as to how rough it looks is what he's getting at ?? as its basically a stock car .. And he talks about being resprayed & no doubt its covering up poor repairs .. Also the front seats are the wrong colour for the car & poorly done too & I imagine the back seats will be the same or worse, so in my eyes they account for nothing as it will need redoing .. As has been said leave this one & look for a cleaner example that will no doubt be dearer but it will turn out much better in the long run & usually ends up costing you less in the long run too .

Not good, but as has been said it could have ended a lot worse when you can't see where you are going !! I'm gathering these don't have a second latch ?? What Jono C would be referring to is under the bonnet there is the second skin which will have holes in it & just loop the belt through an appropriate hole .. If you are not a panel beater I would not attempt it, it could quite easily turn to Shit, just pay to get it done or put it through your insurance

For future information If the speedo is jumping wildly from low reading to a high reading it will be the cable, but if its fairly steady but reads high it has to be in the speedo head itself & from what Samwich first described it wasn't reading all over the place, it was just high hence why I said the grease wont help .. If you do grease the cable due to wild erratic readings you need to make sure there are no kinks in the outer cable & pull the complete inner out & grease & refit ...

Sounds like you are going to have the quickest KE30 on the planet according to your speedo :) In all seriousness, as has been mentioned sounds like your speedo head is no good & no grease etc is going to fix it as that's not where the problem is, just change over the cluster or speedo head ..

If it starts up easily on a really cold morning with out any or very little choke I would say its running quite rich, have you adjusted the carby idle mixtures

As alteezzaclub said check the work that you have done first & make sure the points are set up on the high part of the cam lobe in the distributor when you check the gap as a very wide point gap can definitely cause a miss fire in itself & also replace the condensor next ..

You might have fixed it by now but I can't see you actually mention about replacing the ignition coil itself .. And as has been said make sure its one that requires a ballast resistor if you do change it .. Also those voltage readings your are getting at the coil are a bit high, at idle it should be around 9 volts at the positive terminal, I would try that other ballast resistor & also definately change the coil too as high primary current can cook a ballasted coil .. And refit your vacuum advance vacuum line as that is what gives you the economy gain & better throttle response at light throttle openings too ..

If you find a single throttle plate out of whack compared to the others you can actually tweak / twist the throttle shaft to realign the throttle plate, but you need to do it carefully & in stages, on dellortto's for example they have flats on the washers on each end the throttle shaft at the outside edge of the carby body which you can put a spanner onto to tweak the shafts ..

Its possible that you have a manifold vacuum leak like you mentioned but it also could be the carbs are not synchronised which will cause the revs to hang high, one carby or even a single butterfly could be cracked open a fair bit more than the others .. The revs will increase if it has a vacuum leak & its running very rich, if its not running rich the idle will be rough & could even stall if you have a vacuum leak, so do you think its running rich or is it just that the revs stay high .. Listen around the carbies & manifold for a vacuum leak ..

If you do end up joining a car club for club rego most clubs want you to be member for a few months before they will let you apply for club rego & now it will require a Vic RWC too for club rego so you need to make sure you do a good job on the rust repairs & that the car looks half descent too ...