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kickn5k

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Posts posted by kickn5k

  1. A clutch like that might be a bit much for the driveline. You could possibly get away with a lite ace flywheel. They've got a 210mm clutch I think. I don't know if they fit inside the k series bell housing and they use a 21 tooth spline.

     

    The 5k clutch and flywheel don't fit in a K bell, if your desperate enough they can be made to fit. I've done it but I wouldn't recommend it.

     

    I'm suprised you got more than 12 months out of those headers.

  2. Is this the Penrite Racing oil you're referring to? What's not good about it?

     

    I've used Penrite HPR for over 20 years without an issue.

    The FJ20 loves it and so does all of the K motors I've had in the Rolla.

     

    I wouldn't personally go any lighter than a 15w-50 in a fresh but run in K motor. I've had main seals weep with a 15w in the past.

  3. Hey Bryn

    Peechs turns to 7800 rpm.

    Cam was done by Clive Cams in ferntree gully, who was the machinist for wade for 30 odd years,

    Give him a call, he has done a few 5k cams for me and has always delivered the results I'm chasing

     

    Nah Justin add 10 year to that. Haha

     

    He's the man Bryn, seriously he is. Give him specs of your engine, car and what you want to do with the car and get him to choose a grind. You won't regret it!!

     

     

  4. You're past a Skyline diff too I think.

     

    Borgys in a full weight Falcon are good for mid nine second passes. Given an e7 are half the weight it should be fine with a set of billet axels. FYI skyline, falcon and commo diffs are all pretty much the same internally all except a couple of different splines on axels.

  5. I've always wondered if for pure circuit you can nitrite or shot peen (or something else if I'm too ignorant to know what its called) the T diff gears and coat them also to make it hold up to higher torque, run cooler and get away with the bolt in option at the lightest possible weight.

     

    Cryo treating and isotopic(spelling?) polishing helps a lot. Oil temps are lower and less bearing/steel material contaminating the oil.

  6. Thread bump.....here I was thinking it was an update! :P

     

    I was going to wait until I had more but block is booked next week for some treatments before machining. I'm waiting on MLS headgasket specs so I can finalize piston bowl size.

    I'll get there soon enough, so many custom bits it's still costing me a wedge!! More than a full house 4agte!

  7. Sorry I'm a bit late to the party Rob!!

    Apparently the internal ignighters haven't been available for atleast 2-3yrs. I had a reasonable search for tommyske11 around 2yr ago and came up with nothing. I am going to my ignition guy Monday to pick up my magna-fj20 CAS. I'll quiz him if he has one stashed down the back and his thoughts on what goes where with the new direction.

     

    Stu.

     

    Edit.

    I wonder how close to original those ones on eBay "jzspares" sell are? They might sell the ignighter seperatly if it's the same.

  8. Haven't tried playing around with the Idle valve yet, Being working on the tune. How much timing were you running Stu? I hope 18 is alright haha

     

    I ran around 28-30. You'll notice the dizzy has been ground a little at the end of the adjust slot.

    18 Should be ok, timing will depend on dynamic comp etc etc.

  9. PWM outputs usually only run 2 wire BAC idle valves. The Haltech sprint 500 I put in dads 1600 will only run a 2 wire BAC. But my earlier E6's(k and x) both have wiring to run up to a 4 wire IAC valve.

     

    Good to see you've started getting familiar with the software. Anything has to be better than what it had!! In saying that though it did the job in my car if it was driven hard.

  10. Just launch it like a white man and it will be fine. The maximum power going through it when driving isn't the problem, its getting the mass of the car moving at the start that really hammers transmissions. Close to that would be violent gear changes from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th, I've seen people bang the clutch back out at peak revs and the shock loading would be horrific. Just get the clutch right out each time before you really nail it.

     

    The BorgWarner is a pretty terrible diff, so you can expect the bearings to whine if they don't already.

     

    Beat me to it altezzaclub!!

     

    For the three years I had the blown setup in mine, with 100+rwkw and a metric f/ton of torque(way more of both than a mild modded 4age would make) the borgy diff and k50 never complained. The ke-11 is a heap lighter than the ke-70 so that probably helped.

     

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