Big G

Hey Guys getting to the I'm running out of time period of a build coz my daughter is close to getting her licence. I am struggling with organising lowering springs for the front and was wondering has anyone used the Kings KFFL-15sl they are supposed to be a 50 mm drop which is what the boss wants the car to sit at. My dilemma is that the local auto shop guys say yep that is the part required but King Springs say that they don't make them any more. Looking on Ebay they are all over the place for sale however when you put the KE55 details into their fitment search the result is that they don't fit the car.The KFFL-15 are a match but the drop isn't enough only 30 mm and according to my daughter hardly worth the effort. Are there any other brands out there that will do the job. So any advice on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys I will start making the necessary arrangements to have it fixed.

Hey Guys. Slowly working my way to getting my daughters ke55 coupe on the road. The latest issue to come up is when the car is idling and the brake pedal is depressed there is a loud hissing coming from under the dash area, then at the same time the idle takes a dive and almost stalls the engine when the pedal is released the revs return to normal. Does this sound like a faulty booster or could there be another issue that relates to the vacuum system. Where do I start?

Have you checked the voltage at the wiper motor itself. That would have been my second test after proving the fuse. If you have the correct voltage then it is the wiper motor that has failed and if you have none then work backwards from there.

There doesn't appear to be any bog in the area of the rust but I haven't gone too crazy with stripping the paint off in the area as i want to minimise the repaint. It definitely appears to be sandwiched between the inner and outer skins. I have concerns that it may be flammable. I don t want to burn her pride and joy to the ground before she gets it on the road.

Hi Guys Here is a question for all you panel beating experts out there. I have just started to do some body work on my daughters 55 coupe. It has very little rust and almost zero dings. So around the rear wheel arch there is some of the typical surface rust and some that has chewed up all the metal in that area but hasn't gone as far as getting into the inner skin. I got into it with a sanding disc to reveal the extent of the damage done and it appears not a lot, bonus I thought. Then when I came to clean out the debris between the inner and outer skin I discovered what appears to be a rubberised film between the two. My question is, is this a champion Toyota idea to sound proof the car from road noise or some dodgy buggers idea of rust repair? By filling the rust hole with some spongy goo then bogging over the top of it. If it is genuine and supposed to be there my next question is will it catch fire if I start to weld some small patches in place? The maximum width of the patches would be 15 mm. i don"t want to chop any more sheet metal out than I have to. Has anyone else encountered this before?

Well guys I did it. $85 for a rebuild kit a bunch of obsessive evenings making sure every fuel gallery and air line were squeaky clean. A careful bunch of time spent putting it back together bolting it up and she started first pop and is now purring like a kitten. We took her for a quick illegal sprint up the street and back and it was smooth and responsive. It was high fives all round. Thanks for all the advice and support.

Years ago my parents had a honda civic that was doing the same thing but not at such high revs. It turned out to be the head bolts being stripped. when a compression test was done cold at all looked ok but when the engine heated up the head would expand raise of fthe engine deck and let gas into places it shouldn t be.

Hey Guys Took your advice and took the carby off and pulled it apart very carefully as you advised. There were so many problems inside I m surprised it ran at all. The accelerator plunger seal at the bottom was missing a chunk the power piston was stuck in position there was a handful of gravel around the fuel inlet filter the idle jet was completely blocked and the list goes on. So I stripped it cleaned it and got a rebuild kit yesterday. So putting it together over the next couple of days with my daughter cracking the whip. I ll let you know how how it goes together. thanks again.

Wow thanks for all of your responses it has given some ideas to move forward with. One issue that i have realised since working on it is that it wont start without pouring a dribble of fuel into the carby after that initial start it starts easily but will only run with your foot on the pedal slightly.It s as if the fuel drains out over night. The car hasn t been started for at least 18 months. I will let you know how i go. T

Thanks for that bad news Dave. i was hoping for the easy way out. When i look at all the bits and pieces that are in the kit it looks a little overwhelming. If you take it one step at a time is it too difficult to do. I don't want to have to pay to get it done as it is my daughters car and she has zero budget.

Hey Guys I have been slowly putting together a ke55 2 door coupe for my daughter. The engine is in and running now but I am struggling to get it to idle. I am putting the issue down to the idle jet in the carby. I have been looking for advice on line and the first fix seems to be hit it with carby cleaner. My question is where do you squirt the stuff to to clean out the jets. I want to avoid putting a kit through the carby so I am taking things in logical steps of elimination. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated. I don t know if it makes a difference but its an auto.

Ok, so what I'm getting from you is that the dizzy is a replacement one at some stage in the cars life if as you say it comes from a 5k. So my next question is how many of the other vacuum lines are required. I will have a crack at what you have described and get back to you if I can't work it out. The back story to my questions is because I am building this car for my daughters first car and it was in a lot of pieces. All the vacuum lines were in a zip bag marked carby. So its a bit of a jigsaw puzzle that we are slowly working through. Thanks for your response so far. see how we go.

Hi Guys Just wondering if anyone has a line diagram for the carby vacuum hoses for a 1980 ke55 coupe auto. The sticker under the bonnet is to faded to read. The diagrams I have found on line so far are no where near what i have under the bonnet. The dizzy has two lines running from it. Can any of the lines be disconnected? Are all of them necessary. any info on this topic would be greatly appreciated.