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Banjo

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Everything posted by Banjo

  1. Hi Luca, I'm a bit confused. I read your line that you had put fresh petrol & a new battery in it, & it started; which would be unbelievable. So did it start; or did it not start, before you put in on the tow truck ? As everything electrically is now dead; then I am assuming, it did not start. Electrical circuits in olde cars look complicated, because of all the wires. However, every circuit, is a simple circuit when broken down. The power for every circuit leaves the battery positive terminal, then passes through some "fusible links" (right next to the battery terminal), then through another fuse, a switch; & then to the device being powered, whether that is a light, horn, car radio, etc. The "return side" of the power circuit (light/horn/radio) goes to the -ve terminal of the battery. In most cases there is no wire from each powered device, to the -ve battery terminal, as the chassis of the car, acts as the ground return. It is therefore critically important, that the heavy -ve terminal cable to the battery, is firmly grounded to the chassis. It is usually directly below the battery, on the chassis rail. I would unbolt it, clean its surfaces up, & ensure this connection is good, before doing anything else. At the moment, you are only interested it getting two (2) circuits working. (a) the starter motor circuit, & the (b) ignition circuit. Start with the starter motor. Take out all 4 off spark plugs & put some lightish oil down the spark plug holes. Check the +ve battery terminal connection & the heavy lead at the other end, where it is connected to the starter motor. Find the light wire attached to the starter motor solenoid. Remove it (pull off) & connect a piece of wire to the starter motor solenoid. Touch the other end of this wire to the battery positive terminal. The starter motor should engage, & turn the motor over. If it does, then step one (1) has been successful. If not, check all connections to & from the battery & starter motor, including the earth strap, to the negative terminal of the battery. Once you have got that far; remove the fuel line where it enters the carby. With sufficient petrol in the tank, turn the engine over; (with no spark plugs) & fuel should flow out of the pipe to the carby. Collect this in a can, or vessel; as you need to flush the fuel line & pump out, before you let any fuel into the carby. Once you get that far, come back, & let us know what transpired, & we'll try to assist you to get the ignition firing. Cheers Banjo
  2. Looks very much like it to me, Col. Unfortunately, it was the only photo I could find on the net of that particular engine. Some photos of the six sides of the engine, would provide all the answers. I do have a 5K engine I bought a few years ago, for $ 100. It apparently, had been used in a speedway midget, & would rev to almost 11K. Was really worked over, & one day, I'll put it all together. It does have a couple of odd outlets on the sump, which indicates, it might have been used in a dry sump application, as no matter, how many baffles you place in the sump; in a speedway application, the oil is constantly thrown to the side of the sump. However, I did find a photo on Rollaclub, in a post dating back to 2008, which depicts a TRD alloy dry sump, for a K Series engine. Cheers Banjo
  3. I have just realised I have another small issue, with fitting the EFI trigger wheel & Hall sensor/s, to my K series engine, as well as the return pipe from the bottom of the Echo radiator, passing in front of the crankshaft pulley. At present, the Hall Effect dual sensor, is mounted on a metal bracket I fabricated, which mounts on the LHS of the engine block, where the Rollas with A.C. mounted the compressor. As I intend to fit a compressor & AC system, eventually, then I will need these mounting points. Quite by accident, I came across this photo, of a beautifully prepared K Series Toyota engine. My eye caught sight of a very neat bracket attached to the camshaft sprocket casing. How Neat ! Would certainly overcome my problem. It looks so well made, that maybe someone, somewhere, in the world produced one on these at some time. I looks like it is maybe just an aluminium disk screwed to the front of the existing case. I might just have to investigate that a bit . . . . . Has anyone ever come across one of these specials before ? P.S. I note the beautiful engine above, has an A.C. fitted; although it might actually be an external oil pump, tooth belt driven ? Anyway, I found a 5K Camshaft sprocket cover in my shed; cleaned it up & measured it up, this afternoon. I know the casing, is not dead flat across the front. About 2-3mm proud in the centre. I found a stock aluminium disk 120mm in diameter, & 4mm thick on ebay, in NSW, so will be here in a couple of days. It shouldn't be too hard, to grind the curve off the front of the casing, & attach the disk, to give it lots of meat, & strength, as I need a very stable & rigid platform, to attach the Hall Effect sensor to. Cheers Banjo
  4. Couldn't agree more ! However, don't worry too much, as if it happens here in Australia; it won't be for a long time. EV take up in Australia, is one of the lowest in the developed world. Many new EV buyers will opt for the dealer buy back schemes. Distance Anxiety, will rule out a lot of people who regularly visit relatives & friends in other states. Those that vacation in tents & caravans, won't be joining the EV line anytime real soon. Once we get to the 10 year mark, & all those cheap EVs, needing a battery, sit idle in sales yards, the "penny will drop". Anyone visiting Brisbane airport in recent months, has witnessed the thousands of new cars & utes, sitting in the paddock, after being unloaded from ships. If they stop us servicing our own cars, then Canberra will be blockaded by 1000s of car enthusiasts, driving around "Capital Hill". Cheers Banjo
  5. Your English is perfect ! I am in Brisbane, Australia. There were lots of early Corollas here in the 60s & 70s. By "blocked", I assume You mean, "seized". The simplest way to test is to remove all the spark plugs; squirt some oil down each spark plug hole, into the cylinder. Leave for 5 minutes & then try to turn the engine over by hand with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt, in a clockwise direction, with the gearbox in neutral. There will still be some resistance, as you will still be lifting valve springs; but movement will prove that it is not seized. Good luck ! Cheers Banjo
  6. Hi Luca, Welcome aboard ! Congratulations on your KE30 acquisition. 1. Assuming it has a K series engine in it, the engine model number & serial number, are stamped into the engine block, on a flat, just behind & below the distributor. 2. The K Series engines all have a timing/camshaft chain; at the front of the engine, under the cover behind the crankshaft pulley. If you'd like to lift the hood/bonnet, & take a photo of the engine bay, then we can identify it more easily. It looks in pretty good condition, & you are lucky, it has been "garage stored", for the last 14-15 years. Are you planning on getting it going, & roadworthy, yourself; or have others do it for you ? I can detect a little "common" rust, right at the bottom of the passengers front door. The first thing, you are probably going to need, is four (4) new tyres, as I doubt, that the existing ones; lying flat for 14-15 years on a concrete floor, are going to hold air. Come back to use with as many pictures that You can create, especially, under the bonnet; & we'll try to assist you. Where about in the world are you located; & are olde Corollas common there ? Cheers Banjo
  7. Some time back, in the following thread https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73676-oil-pump-failure/page/9/#comment-714036 I described how I fitted a Toyota Echo radiator core/shroud/fan to my KE30. It has been very very successful, & with the removal altogether of the fan belt driven fan; certainly released energy to the wheels, rather than to be constantly turning the fan blades; whether it was needed or not. It indeed confirmed that; on an indicator I placed on the dash, which illuminated, when the electric fan was operating; that the "ram effect", of air through the radiator, was enough to adequately cool the engine, except, when you pulled up in traffic, at lights, on a hot day. In fact there have been days, when I've been out on the road, & the electric fan has never activated, until a few minutes after I arrive home, & the "heat soak" out of the engine, pushes up the coolant temp. The electric fan will typically run on for 2-3 minutes, & then turn off. (typical of what you hear walking around shopping center car parks) By the way, I live in Qld. not Tassie ! There was however, one draw back, using the Toyota Echo radiator/shroud/electric fan setup, I fitted. The outlet on the bottom of the Echo radiator, was on the wrong side, & the S.S. tube pipe I fitted, runs across the face of the crankshaft pulley, where I need to fit my new aluminium trigger wheel, to test my new Speeduino ignition system, on the road. On ebay, I recently came across KE30 Aluminium core/shroud & fan assemblies, c/w relay & thermostat switch, for around $ 240-$260 ea., which seemed a bit cheap to me. Has anyone purchased & used one these radiator core/shroud/fan setups; & were they any good ? Previously, You would barely be able to purchase an "aluminium core only", for that sort of money. I am just concerned about the quality of the product. If anyone gives them the "thumbs up", it will be a simple fix, to allow me to fit the Speeduino finally to the car, & do some road testing, rather than the test bed engine stand, without a dummy load device, which Altezzaclub & I have as yet; not been able to come up with a cheap water pump engine load etc idea ! Cheers Banjo
  8. Electric fuel pumps are very reliable, & for this application, of a carby engine, are not expensive, unlike the high pressure pumps required for EFI applications, which are costly. I've got one on my "test bed carby 5K engine", on a stand in my garage, & it works very well. Here is a common one on ebay. Most of them are about 3-6 psi output, & run on 12Vdc. Cheers Banjo
  9. I've read your post through again today, & I must say, that the engine bay looks very clean & neat. I hear you say it idles perfectly, but when you increase revs, it "jerks", under load. I'm going to have a stab at this; based on a similar problem, I came across, a few years ago. As soon as you increase revs, & load; with your foot hard on the accelerator pedal, the fuel consumption increases, & the carby bulb lowers, & the valve opens to input more fuel. If the fuel pump is not up to it, then you could easily obtain the "jerky" engine response. Did you fit a new fuel pump, of is it the original ? The mechanical fuel pumps on the K series engines, are usually very reliable. When olde, they are known to suffer deterioration of the main rubber diaphragm. The tiny spring loaded valves, can sometimes get dirt in then, or break. However, there are two things that can prevent the fuel pump not being able to produce output. The first one, is if the fuel pump, is attached to the block, without the "fiber" spacer, between the pump & block mounting flange. This is rare, but I have come across it on one or two occasions; although it usually destroys the pump pretty quickly. The second problem with low fuel throughput, is the pump being mechanical, has to be mounted on the engine. However, that results in the suction path from the fuel tank, to the pump inlet being long. I have found that even if the pump is working perfectly, that they don't work very well, if there is the tiniest leak in the long inlet line, & it sucks air in. On many olde Corollas, there is a rubber joiner in the fuel pump inlet line, under the floor pan, & this goes hard & brittle, & can cause, the issue you describe. Ideally, the fuel pump can be electrical, & sited close to the tank, so that the suction section of pipe to the electric pump inlet is short; & the line to the carby is always under pressure. Only real issue with electric pumps, is that You must include a "safety cut-out", for the electric pump, if the vehicle is ever in an accident. Cheers Banjo
  10. The four into one exhaust extractors, obviously have to have "gaps" in the mounting flange, to accommodate the inlet manifold. Most manufacturers leave a 'joiner strip" of flange, that keeps all three flanges in the same plane. This joiner strip, passes under the inlet manifold, as is usually not very wide, so could well "warp" slightly, over time. You can see them on my 4K engine, which has an EFI manifold from a 7K engine fitted. The single biggest problem, I have come across, is the common manifold stud mounting, between inlet & exhaust manifolds. If these flanges are a different "thickness", then the heavy/thick washer, will not sit flat. I've fashioned washers over the years, to ensure when the nut is tightened up; that the washer sits flat, & provides equal clamping on both the inlet & exhaust manifold. Alternatively, you could skim both inlet & exhaust manifold flanges, so that they are the exact same thickness, at the point where the common manifold studs tie down. Cheers Banjo
  11. Welcome aboard ! Sounds like You had the 4K-C engine done professionally, but the car is not drivable. If You could take a few pictures in your engine bay, it would help us envisage, what You are dealing with. Better still, would be a video, with sound, so we can hear the engine running. The intermittent nature of the engine, could be ignition time; or air fuel ratio, or a combination of both. Does the engine have one (1) off 5K carby, or two (2) off ? Is the 5K distributor an electronic one, with no points ? Does the engine idle all right, & the problem occurs only, when You are driving it, with a load on it ? I'm presuming You put new spark plugs in it, after the rebuild. Have you removed the plugs to see what colour the internal insulator is ? Have you or someone else checked the valve & ignition timing, which is best carried out, with the rocker cover removed, so you can watch the valve rockers actions. Send us some pics, & a video, & we'll see if we can't provide some concrete suggestions. P.S. Where are you located ? Cheers Banjo
  12. There is a bit of extra info at this link, where I eventually used an aluminium disk with rare magnets, rather than the iron toothed trigger wheel. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/83250-4k-efi-test-rig-iac-valve/#comments Cheers Banjo
  13. There is a pretty easy way to check the camshaft timing, without removing the timing chain cover; which is a bit hard to do, with the engine installed. Remove all the spark plugs, & the oil filler cap, & the dissy HT cover. Place a mark on the dissy aluminum base edge, where no: 1 spark plug lead connects to the spark plug. Rotate the engine until the crankshaft pulley "timing mark" lines up with the corresponding mark, on the timing chain cover. If the dissy rotor is out 180 degrees, then rotate the crankshaft an extra full turn, until the timing marks aligned, again. This should be T.D.C. No: 1 cylinder. Place a long screwdriver down no: 1 spark plug hole, & rock the crankshaft back & forth, to confirm that the piston, is right at the top of the travel. If it is, then your camshaft timing, is probably all good. There are a couple of things that could be amiss, if it is not at TDC, that may not be a result of a camshaft chain alignment being an issue. eg: The engine at sometime in it's life has had a timing chain cover, or a crankshaft pulley fitted, that originally came from a 5K engine, which had the marks in slightly different positions. Once you have determined that the no: 1 piston, is at TDC, you can rock the crankshaft back & forth, & looking down the oil filler hole, you should see that both inlet & exhaust rocket arms are clear of the valves. A penlite torch, often assists with this test, or alternatively remove the rocker cover. When you have determined everything is OK, then turn the crankshaft, "anti-clockwise", until the timing mark on the pulley lines up with 10 -12 deg. BTDC. Now check that the arc on the dissy rotor, is still pointing towards no: 1 spark plug lead position. If not, then there is always the possibility, that the dissy has been inserted into the block, 1 tooth out. I hope this all proves out there is not an inherent assembly problem, & then, you can concentrate on getting the centrifugal & vacuum advance / retard settings sorted. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo
  14. I've never ever physically come across a 3K-U engine, here in Australia, although owning & running a 4K-U, which was a very good engine, producing a bit more power, standard; than the more common 4K-C. I had to look up the net, to see what officially the 3K-U was built for. Like Pete says, it appears to meet local Japanese emissions requirements. The word "catalyst" may indicate, it had some sort of cataytic converter in the exhaust system, to clean the exhaust gases a bit. Unless it had a slightly different camshaft timing, I can't image that putting it back to a standard carby & standard dizzy, would not bring it back to normal power output. However, as we have found previously, on this forum; when an engine series is so olde, there couuld well be an issue at some time in it's life, where it has been reassembled with the timing chain out a link or something. I seem to remember way back; someone shearing off the locating pin between camshaft & chain sprocket, & it creating an issue, like you describe. Cheers Banjo
  15. Hi Jesse ! Yes well done, & a good outcome ! Once you removed the head, did you get around to turning the block upside down, & removing the sump, & inspecting therein. Seeing your pics of the head, I was concerned that the bottom "sump" end; could be in a similar, or maybe even worse condition, that the top/head end. Cheers Banjo
  16. I've a set of rear leaf springs out of a KE-55 which are the same as the KE-30, although I think the KE-55 had one extra leaf. I'll measure them up over the weekend, & provide you with the dimensions. Cheers Banjo
  17. Hi ! Not sure what you are needing ? Are you needing to buy brand new leaf springs, the same as the originals that were fitted to your KE-30. Are those pictures that you have posted, the springs you have taken off your car ? Where are you located ? If you need new springs, the same as your old ones; then any good spring workshop, should be able to make you up a pair, if you take your old ones in, for sizing & length etc. Cheers Banjo
  18. Hi Jesse ! I've got to say: I'm an "old timer" K Series fan, but I don't think I've ever seen as bad a build up of dry oil & crud, in one of these engines, as your pics have displayed. Water coolant passages, will get corroded, but the amount of crud in the oil lubrication return paths to the sump, has me baffled, as to how it could get that bad: & secondly how did the engine function at all. I am hoping not; but I think the most enlightening picture, is going to be the one you take, once the engine is upside down, & you have removed the sump. I think that might be your next best step, as if you spend a lot of time cleaning the block & head faces, it may well all be a waste of time, once you remove the sump. I hope not; but I am trying to warn you, that it's condition, may be a bit of a shock; for all of us. On the water coolant passages, the dished Welsh Plugs situated around the block, always look pretty good on the outside, but can be badly pitted & corroded on the inside. I've come across them so thin, that centre punching the middle of the plug, whilst trying to remove them, has had the punch penetrate straight through. I would remove the sump before going any further, & lets have a look at the "full picture", before you spend any more time on this engine. You are at the stage, with the head removed, that you can turn it over, & have the sump off in about 10 minutes. You might get some inspiration from this video, if You haven't already come across it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=1RX_AJRbYzc Cheers Banjo
  19. Hi Jesse, Take the head off, which only involves 10 bolts off memory. Undo the head bolts in the same order, as they suggest doing them up. The head is small & relatively light; & is best worked on on a bench of some kind. You will need a valve spring compressor, although you could make a hinged one with a long arm. Once you have the valves laid out in order, you can inspect valves & their seats in the head, along with valve guide wear. clean out the combustion chambers & look for cracks or damage. Then clean out the ports. You can also spent a lot of time cleaning all the rocker gear, including posts & shaft. It's very rewarding, especially if you take a before & after pictures. Cheers Banjo
  20. Hi Jesse, "Olde K series motors never die ! They just need cleaning up, & restarting !" This one certainly needs cleaning up, but if you've already heard it run; then there is nothing "broken" inside. 4KC was & is a great engine for many reasons. The engine was nearly perfectly "square", meaning it's stroke & cylinder bore were almost the same dimensions. That allowed them to be well balanced, & achieve higher revs, than say a 5K, which had more capacity, & was not as well "balanced". There was only one K series engine better than the 4KC, & that was the little seen 4KU, which produced also as much power as a 5K, as a result of better breathing. I've had a 4KU in my KE30 2 door sedan for years, & I swear by it, for reliability & general performance. Like Altezzaclub said, strip it down & give it a good clean, & then take a close look at bearing journals, cylinder bores & ring gaps. I would however suggest a new oil pump assembly, which you can still buy new; although they are probably "aftermarket" types. New oil seals at each end of the crank, & you'll have a very serviceable engine, & learnt a lot along the way. The main thing is to not mix things up. Make sure crankshaft bearing slippers are all keep in order etc, along with pistons & rings. Same goes for rocker arms. Come back & tell us, what you find, once you've stripped it down. Cheers Banjo
  21. Others may correct me; but I thing the simple answer is no. It's over a decade ago now, since I did mine; but At least, I think I had to replace the top pivots, & they had to be adjustable to get the camber right. I know it was a good learning experience, & there was a lot of measurements taken, with the wheels & weight on a flat concrete floor. Steering linkage lengths also came into play. I'll have a read through my original thread tonight, & see if it brings back other memories of this exercise to light. I do remember, I also fitted a much thicker anti-sway bar, which really helped, & some really good Koni shockers in the Corona strut tubes. I seem to remember, there was a very popular conversion, called the "PUG" conversion, which used an early model Peugeot disc caliper off memory. I do remember, that you had to weld the lower spring support & retainer on, so that when the wheel was hanging free, that there was still some compression on the spring, at all times. Cheers Banjo
  22. Hi Mate ! Lots of details on here, if you go searching; regarding brake upgrades on the front of KE30/55/70 Rollas, as Rollas were never well known, for their "great braking ability" I remember reading lots a threads, when I did my front end upgrade years ago, which was a resounding success. However, it involved replacing the whole strut, LCAs, & discs & calipers. When I finished, I found I had to replace the brake master cylinder with a Mitsi Pajero one. I finished up with Corona struts, 3T Toyo adjustable top pivots, Cresida discs & calipers off to different model Cresidas; & the Pajero master cylinder. It was quite a journey, & I learnt a lot, but the end result, has proven to be reliable & trouble free. Go back & look through my posts, & you'll find a lot of info there, along with a few pics. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/63524-ke-3055-brake-upgrade/#comments Cheers Banjo
  23. Hi Zoe ! Glad you got your KE-30's 3T engine running again. Connections between battery terminals & the starter motor are so important, as lots of current flows, between battery & starter motor, during cranking. As it's a circuit; the connections on the ground or chassis side, are just as important, as the battery positive (+ve) side. Cheers Banjo. We look forward to you posting some pics.
  24. You look very smart with a tie ! Cheers !
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