Jason

I'm really getting into the aussie stuff atm. Like you i used to hate it but I'm loving Muph and Plutonic feature album. Just got TZU and bluejuice stuff.

Load Cell [X] Load cell decoder [X] Anlog to digital converter [ ] Still waiting on the ADC from maxim

Trying to change sleeping patterns zzzz uni.

If you bothered to look you will find a rb20 bolts straight in with RA22 crossmembers (also bolt in not much modification.) .

Extreme wisdom tooth pain plus the pain of just having knocked off a toenail and not being able to have regular painkillers because of medication I'm already on :dance:

School mums in there big FWD's. They think they can push into the school pick up que... guess what I'm not afreid to have a couple of scratches on my Volvo.

The teeth were to much extra weight! Roll starts ftw.

what brother? I just download topgear every couple of months. TV rots your brain :)

Repulsive :) And a stock 4ac, its going to go as hard as it looks.

I just confirmed that telma units atleast use iron for the rotors, this gives me much more confidence :P

I foresee underground fuel supply where people steal petrol tankers and sell cheap bluejuice in backallyes to all the drifter and hill races.

hahaah :)

lol because we live in aus we get almost nothing in terms on nifty cool electronic stuff :yak: BUT i just order my free samples of the analog to digital converter chip and the load cell driver chips. Nothing beats getting stuff in the mail, except when its free :)

Just nabbed a 1000 pound load cell for $55 including shipping in the most epic bidding war ive been in lol

Yeah i could get about 3X the braking power if i used an aluminum rotor for the same magnetic strength, 6X if i used a copper alloy. Aluminum has at least 3X the conductively than run of the mill cast irons. But before anything i need a motor to do some testing :)

It just the increase in conductivity. does any body know the specs on standard brake disks? Like the actual type of iron alloy? IE cast, 4.5% C?

constantly getting spammed with beastality porn in my inbox. After 3 years of no spam.... ;(

I can only run the magnet for a about 1 min at around 50v. So the disk overheating issue is not the problem. It drawing to much power the twin coils is still almost a dead short.

Has it been upgraded from OEM? If not that you don't have any options. And your going to have either buy another one and lock it, not lsd. Or get an entire new diff casing.

First step would be to use the caps lock button, now I'm yelling in my head.... What diff... Stock there is no lsd options. btw lsd diffs translates into = limited slip differential differential

This is aculty now looking promising again :) I managed to get the central pole of the magnet withing 2mm of the disk and the outer poles about 1cm. The faster it spins the more resistance it has. I was only spinning it with my hand and once i was getting speed it was quite difficult to keep it there. Also Need mircowaves

Just had another play with the caps hooked up. I got a bad feeling i may have already reached the saturation of the disk brake. I duno but i went for broke and cranked to about 100v with no noticeable increase in resistance.

Was chatting to ben last night about this and decied to try out the eddy current idea. I'm going to be using to brake disk so even if it fails i can still go with the disk brake 8| But After a real dummy up setup i managed to get the center core about 5mm away from the disk and the outer cores about 2 cm away. At about 50v unfilted dc i could feel a deffinate resistance in the rotor. Thats using two primary's around one core. I couldn't go up any higher because i could already smell the varnish cooking :) I'm hopeing to have 4 of these 'double primary' cores. Two per disk. I'm not even coming close to drawing the max of 2400W from the wall. And i always got some huge 350v filter capacitors to help if I run out of volts :yak: I plan to run them anyway i just cbfed wiring them up. But this sucker is strong. I was pulling screw drivers towards the core when i was starting to approach 50v. Which is a 'good' sign because it showing I'm wasting a lot of enegery that could be used. My big industrial variac on the left rated 3500W little 1800W rectifier (middle in vice) that manged to only get warm and the eletro. I'm going to have to either reweld the tops of the core or clamp it together becuse the lamites were throwing themselves apart. BTW if any one has old mircowaves they wont to donate give me a PM because I only have 3 cores (Y) and two primaries

Nice :D what kind of power was it seeing?

BRAIN EXPLOSION! After a little more thinking i may have just come up with a simple way to get torque directly out. Almost no calculations. Going on the idea of a water based load cell. Once water is introduced into the turbine cavity it will create restriction and so forth, ok nothing i didn't already know. But if the water pump house is floating, ie on a bearing. I simple force gauge can be mounted on the casing of the pump 'holding' it in place. The force as the pump torques up it trys to turn, Putting force on the force gauge. Simple Force X Length = Torque! It wont give an accurate reading but it will give a comparable reading. This could work for a torque converter no? This is soooo doable. I could even get a data logger and plot the toruqe vs rpm on a screen. Now that i think about it, any load cell will work with this setup. Hmm i quick wiki search shows that this is the normal way of measuring torque. zzz