CorollaNut68

i guess I could take the old one down to 3 Star where I've had all my pipes done at...I don't know if they could make some customs. They did my dual exhaust years ago when I split the header and made two 2-1's out of it. The dual exhaust really made a lot of people wonder, and I love the way it looks warming up on a cold day. When asked whats in it..."just a couple o squirrels, and a cat to keep em busy"

Well I have no tools to speak of, just my hand tools...so I'm just stuck right now wondering wtf?

with the valve cover off....the exhaust valve for the #2 cylinder (#4 valve from the front) makes a puff sound every time it opens...it seems to come from the carb when I cover it with my hand....is it blowing back somehow? ...clearance on intake and exhaust is correct....intake valve leaking?

Oh, I hadn't thought about that...I got a steering box to fit around. JC Whitney catalogue used to have them.

We call them "headers" around here. I had some that got too crunchy to keep welding up and finally went back to stock exhaust. Can't seem to find any more these days around here (and can't afford them just now), but would like to know where to find them.

Grrr...when I open the oil cap and listen inside with the motor running...I hear...fish, fish, fish, fish, fish. I guess a valve is leaking or really badly adjusted (did I miss one? hmmm, gettin sloppy in my old age?)...I think if you rebuild one part of an engine all the other parts get jealous. Now the waterpump is wanting to seep, fuel pump iffy, need a carb kit, master cylinder kit, etc., etc :bash:

:)

Some may have seen this before, I can't remember where I copied it from, can't find actual color codes. Mine was Diana Olive, been working on painting it white but I see too many white ones, it does look sweet in white. Now I'm thinking either back to original, a dark charcoal gray, or black. Most likely back to olive although it kind of made me think they used leftover Army green with a gloss added. Body colors based on a Classic Mythology theme To maintain the radiance of a new vehicle at all times, the world's most advanced and somewhat rare technology was adopted, namely, an electrostatic coating was added to the electrophoretic coating of the body. The names of the body colors were selected to immediately bring the color to mind to any person and to be well suited for vehicles used throughout the world. After anguishing over the names for some time, the team finally came upon the idea of using the names of Greek and Roman gods and heroes, which are known worldwide, to conjure up images of magnificent dramas of nature, fragrant beauty and culture. Aphrodite White A vivid, pure white that expresses the love, beauty and purity of the goddess of love. Zeus Blue An impressive blue that projects the mystical, luxurious image of Zeus, the god of the skies and weather. Meteoric Brown A strong, dynamic, thick brown color reminiscent of the natural power of a meteorite. Diana Olive An olive color wîth a composed ambiance that projects the image of Artemis ruling over Olive. Ares Grey A powerful grey color that is symbolic of the armor of the god of war. Apollo Red A red color that evokes the emotion of vigor as expressed by Apollo, the god of the sun, fine art, light and healing. Neptune Turquoise A deep blue suited for Neptune, the god of earthquakes, to rule the sea. Pluto Beige A beige color that expresses the wide, vast field of Elysium, a place for the heroic and virtuous . Juno Grey A modern grey with hidden warm, feminine softness in a gracious, simple form. Whereabouts of the first production model Corolla The first ever Corolla received tremendous attention as a revolutionary family car built by Toyota to be introduced to the world. The very first production model was celebrated wîth spectacular fanfare and ceremony as it rolled off the production line. However, no one knows the current whereabouts of this very first Corolla.

I almost got my KE10 in the movie "Stone Cold" with Brian Bosworth when he tried acting but it got cut...had a Viet Nam era Huey helicopter flying so low over me I could see the skids in my windows sometimes. They filmed in Little Rock and used our state capital building...I got to be an extra in the movie (three scenes in the final cut and at the end when the credits go up you can see me right behind Brian) and drove my car in the final scenes...they did 17 different takes with the helicopter and we were set up to be traffic. Really cool...had national guard shooting at me and everything (even got to drift one corner :))...wish at least a bit of the car had made it in.

Thanks for all the help guys, I seem to get better info here than on some other forums...I've done all I can for the moment til work picks up. Today I'm going to take the alt apart...never done one before but its dead now so I can't hurt anything, just curious and when i can I'm gonna hunt for a starlet dizzy, $124-264 from NAPA...depending on the year you look for and if we have a good summer (lots o work) I'll hunt for a Webber. Man this car used to be amazing for a lil 4 banger... Years ago, beside being an excellent and surprising uh...street racer(not that I condone that sort of thing, but it happens) I made a 101 mile trip from Little Rock to El Dorado in 50 minutes and had to go through 3 small towns on the way, the rest was open road, two lane, heavy fog at 4 in the morning. slowed to normal through the towns and opened her up in between...Speedo tops at 100mph, just kept it buried and listened to the tone of the engine... I stayed just ahead of a Ford Ranchero with a 351 in a 1000 ft drag...made many many Hondas breathe my sweet exhaust fumes in 1995 Bryant popo said I was doing 131mph...took me to jail...how is that possible...the only mods were true dual exhaust with two 2-1 headers (extractors to you guys) and 13" wheels ( I was in a bad mood and trying to blow it up....they chased me for about 12 miles before the radiator blew and I couldn't see anymore...jumped a ditch at 95mph and ended up with the front end pointing left and right and the centerlink bowed in a half circle) I would have framed the ticket but since they were carting me off they didn't actually write one, plus there were a few other things they tried to charge me with. When it finally went to court it was all reduced down to unsafe driving Today I'd be happy with just being able to go to the store and back :)

Little Rock, Arkansas here 1968 KE10 2 door 1.1 K-C bumped to 1.2 3K-C 725,506 miles Oh, and I paid $300 for it 26 years ago...thought I would drive it til I found something better...still looking My gray Toy at my Blue Lodge

well...I went ahead and pulled all the wiring out, a lot of it probably ok but lots of it "crunchy. I ran new 14g wire, new connectors, to all the systems except lights, radio etc under the dash. Now my alternator doesn't flash, it quit altogether...lol.....another 50 bucks, maybe next week. Still don't get a good blue spark but years ago it seems I tried an accel super coil and all it seemed to do was burn the points. I'll be lookin for another carb soon too, if I can't find a kit,,,haha I can't find anyone local with a kit but they can order another rebuilt Aisan for about 100 bucks. Oh and the regulator is a solid state version now, no opening.....the tacho doesn't 'drop'....it leaps up, kind of intermittently.

I wiil try to get video if I can...it's 22 degrees F outside right now and I have the wiring spread out making new connections and replacing what I can, tomorrow is supposed to be warmer.

As far as I know....I have everything as it should be that I can see...timing is supposed to be 8deg according to the book...the only things NOT new are the voltage reg. and the alternator and near the end of my fiddling around a couple of days ago one of them seems to be going out now too....charge light started flickering and would go out when I revved it up and then went into a steady flashing that would not quit and the lights all go brite dim in unison...I've never seen it flash like that, usually something goes out and it just comes on steady....Work is real slow this winter so I have no money to play with or I would just keep throwing new parts at it, I haven't had this much trouble from it in 25 years. I have swapped condensors so many times I couldn't say which was the newest one now they all look clean and new but pretty sure the one thats on is the new one, can you check them with a meter?....one other thing...as long as I have owned it and even in it's prime, it's never had a good strong blue spark.

I wish those slotted wheels you replaced weren't so far across the water...I'd like a set of those on my 69

Well I thought all was good putting it together, If I find no shorts or anything else i guess I'll have to take it down and check again, luckily I have replaced the studs so I can get the timing cover off without pulling down the oilpan. Looks like the waterpump is leaking too so I have to get in there some anyway, plus the accelerator pump in the carb could use replacing if I can find one. Jeez, I'm tired of working on this thing and ready to drive it.

It's just a new stock cam and i just assume if I lined it all up correctly assembling the timing chain that all should be well, I had to have some helicoils put in the head and have the manifold as tight as I dare. By the cam being a tooth out do you mean on the timing chain or when you drop in the distributor?

First off, Happy New Year! I'll try to keep this short...1969 KE10 with a swap from 1.1 to 1.2 3K ... while idling my tach makes an occasional jump, it gets worse when trying to drive....like the fire is jumping all over the place...but it's not anywhere i can see or feel, even watching it in the dark...new points, plugs, cap, rotor, coil, new wire from ign. to coil, coil to dist. etc. I can get it to idle ok but it just hesitates and feels bogged down when trying to drive. I've just gone through the entire thing again...new cam , lifters, pistons, rods, crank turned, timing chain.....it should be singing....I've taken the distributor apart to make sure the weights and springs are still ok....I've got all the wiring from the firewall out unwrapped looking for shorts or something....

Hey rolla people, Got a 69 KE10 with a toasted 1.2 in it...may need a new block or the whole shebang, haven't had it apart in three years but took off the head and have 3 pistons down instead of two up two down. Would like to do another close to original build sometime in the future. Original was 1.1, found a 1.2 "in the crate" and put that in and got several hundred thousand miles out of it before it gave up. Still have the 1.1 block but no crank. Where should I look for and what do you think would be best to put in it. Live in Arkansas and on really tight budget. Thanks for any info.

Just a thought...and I hope it's not whats going on but my 3K started running bad last year, popping and low power, went the whole gamut...new carb, plugs, wires , coil, points, condensor, everything!, finally had the head rebuilt and then discovered my block and pistons were cracked and one lobe on the cam was worn pretty badly. Nightmare!

I'm new in these forums and forgive me if I don't know all the codes and whatnot. I've had my 69 for 20 years now and let me just say...it has been through some sh*t! Here is my simple set up: New stock front struts, Front disc brakes from a 72 model ( bolts right on ), New stock rear shocks, Small set of helper leaf springs like you would use for towing ( I do have a trailer hitch ), 13 inch wheels from the 72, 185/70R13's all around. Here is what it has done in the past 20 years. Raced daily, all over town (potholes, RR tracks, speed bumps ha ha, I laugh at the guys in the lowered and lowprofile). Raced on backroads (gravel and dirt, rain or shine), drifts beautifully. Towed full size Chevy truck on a tilt bed car hauler over 200 miles. Pulled a 72 Dodge (which was pulling a boat and they were both still hooked together) out of a lake. On a bad day in 1995 ..while trying to blow it up: out-drove the entire Bryant Police force and about 12 State Troopers for, hmmm...30 miles or so (they gave me a ticket for 131mph???) radiator blew...jumped a ditch, (almost). Never, ever stuck in snow or ice. The list goes on but these are just a few highlites. Fantastic car.

This is probably nowhere near as sophisticated as what others are talking about, but in my case I have merely used the front discs from a 72 to replace the front drums on my 69. Bolts right into place and lets you stop even in the rain, lol. Getting pretty hard to find pads for it on this side of the water though.

Mark Shelton Little Rock, AR 1968 Corolla KE10 (I just found out for sure from Toyota, my Corolla that's titled as a '69, is actually a 1968) 1.2 3K-C w/1.1 K-C head (10-1 comp) 2 2-1 headers, dual 1.5" exhaust 185/70/13's on FOMOCO, Mazda? steelies w/chrome rings Lakewood Mini traction bars Stock suspension with KE11 front disc My "other" car...not near as much fun.

Cool Myles, looks a lot like mine when I got it 20 years ago...lol, doesn't look much better now, it was a kind of army looking green but nowdays pretty much stays primered. I like to drive the old backroads a lot and don't have to worry about nicks in the paint. I try to keep it nice under the hood though

I'll check and clean em all...worth a try...I wont know for a while, I'm in the middle of a rebuild and discovered my block to be trash. Probably be about two weeks...man, the 1.2's seem to be hard to come by but I found a guy in Washington who is swapping a 1.2 for a 3tc and will send me his block. Thanks!