CorollaNut68

The Corolla from Hell...wonder why satan gave up his daily...maybe he let that one go for a red one.

Mine runs best on hemp oil

I just use a big adjustable wrench. It usually spins right off after it's broke loose, so no ratchet necessary.

Don't hack it up...There are plenty of things you can do without hacking on one of the best built cars in the world...you don't need a bunch of special stuff to make these cars run like crazy...the stock parts can be had cheap...all you really need is a bit more compression like the 10-1 the K-B's had....little head work will fix that....as far as handling...learn to drive it, learn what it does...sand, snow, ice, mud, woods, fields, pavement, dodging idiots...never been stuck, never been stranded...changing out all the stuff doesn't make a better driver out of you....just ask the many, many souped up Honda drivers who only know what the back of my Rolla looks like. Maybe we have different gas over here, but this little rolla would scream and it was simply a stock 3K with a K head and dual 2-1 extractors. Top measured speed 131mph, as per police radar.

Beautiful...

Yeah, seems to be the compression. I was extremely happy with my set up, 3k with a K head, twin 2-1 extractors with true dual exhaust and big quiet mufflers. Never had it tested but it was a Honda killer for many many years. I would race anything on the street and surprised quite a few folks...the 351ci Ranchero guy was real sad...so were many 5.0 mustangs....It could smoke 1st and 2nd, burn 3rd real good and chirp 4th any time I wanted. I have twisted the rear axle out of it a few times, breaking the bolts in the leaves, I'm surprised the tiny little u-joints didn't go first. I made a 101 mile trip at an average speed of 124mph....and got clocked once at 131mph (it took a while to get there). Unfortunately after about 10 or 12 years of constant hard driving, it ended up cracking all to pieces and now I have just a stock 3k back to original everything. I know I keep telling this story but, man, I really loved that motor....and it went to 6600rpm all the time. I never really even gave it a break-in period....Got it together, started it up, smoked the tires out of the shop, and proceeded to go out and piss off Honda drivers. I especially liked the ones with all the nifty lookin gear, lowered with the big obnoxious mufflers sticking out the back, that have probably spent thousands of dollars on wheels and engines only to be beat by a 40 year old nearly stock $300 Corolla. I could never beat a stock early Civic though, I don't know what year but the real small ones, some of the first...they could keep up with my old Kawasaki on the freeway.

Sweet...hey , it's past spring now, how's it going?

There are 2 different versions of the 4 speed though...later ones had the shifter further back with a shorter stick than the original...and those tails will interchange I'm pretty sure...Don't know how the wagon is set up but there's about maybe 10 inches or so difference in the shifter positions, I'd have to go look and this is my lazy time.......(I've been through 5 of em and can't always find the same thing so I have dual holes and just change the carpet and move the cover)...My first tranny broke in half when I lost a U-joint so I couldn't use any of it, (That was fun and nearly broke my hand when the stick jumped, bent the shaft, shattered the casings)......... the others were all later and I just found an original that I have in there now...clutch splines are different in the later model too so you have to use a different disc....good luck

Well it seems since mine is all stock and has no other reason for pressure loss...I will be changing oil pumps for my vacation. And I guess since I practically have to pull the engine to change it, I'm gonna pull the engine, that will be a good time to go ahead and pull the steering box so I can mess with it too...then, that will be a good time to pull the heater out and re-build it...and since all that will be out, looks like a good time to clean up and repaint the engine bay...and gee since most of the dash is apart, might as well re-paint in there too...and I ordered some baby moons that should be here in a few days...should look kinda old school 50ish hot rod with moons and rings...I'll show ya if it looks ok

Off the top of my head..and I'm not sure, I think you can swap tailpieces from the 10 to the 20 and use the original shifter position. Doesn't the 20 look identical except the shifter is further back? Unless there is some difference in the forks, you should be able to just unbolt and slide off one and replace it with the other.

I found this place...gives you relative sizes, speeds, side by side comparison http://www.tacomawor...80r12-175-70r13

Engine sounds like it wants to go...why you keeping it in that parking lot?...........isn't it cruel to build a beast and keep it chained up? Set it free man. BTW, love the hybrid sticker, may have to make one of those for mine.

Good grief man....we don't even have inspections any more here. Used to be once a year when you got tags you got inspected for things like brakes, headlight alignment, exhaust leaks, cracked windshields.......now as long as you can move down the road, they don't seem to care until something goes wrong. I have one friend who got told some years ago by a cop that he didn't want to see his 302 V8 powered 74 Celica on the road again, but didn't do anything "official" about it. For me that's ok because I have a single crack down the center of my windshield that would have kept my car off the road and I cannot find another windshield anywhere over here.

Smallest slowest...but coolest.

Yeah my 3K runs way better with more advance...I think it helps with the crappy ethanol gas we get now and I usually run the cheaper 87 octane...but he had asked for a K manual and that's the factory settings. Back then you got nice leaded gasoline...actually ran a bit quieter..and you could tell if the engine was running well from the chalky white tail pipe...if it was black in there like they all are now , something was wrong. My original 1100 K ran best at about 8deg or so....set it all up to factory and then just twist the dizzy till it pepped up a bit.....and it was OK with me taking it to 6600 rpms on a regular basis for about 300,000 miles after it's first freshen up at 250,000. (just fresh rings and bearings, no honing or turning whatsoever, no new lifters, pumps or anything) When the original Toyota factory parts started to go bad (they lasted 21 years by the way) and I had to start getting aftermarket water pumps and alternators and stuff...well now it's a yearly round....hey , starters out... time to start shopping for a water pump...then alternator...voltage reg....bulbs(just replaced all the original interior bulbs that lasted over 40 years and still worked but were getting dim)...shocks....once you get it all replaced , start shopping again.

WGMG right now is I lost my clutch cable leaving work tonight, my newly rebuilt starter had to be banged on to get going, yet another little old lady backed into my car at a gas station, while it is parked across the parking lot, ALL BY ITSELF! 200 FEET AWAY FROM EVERYTHING!, she finds a way to manage to hit it. Didn't really do any damage but it took quite a while to cuss her and her husband out properly...2 people in the car neither of them watching where they are going. Lets see...I do believe the last 4 times it's been hit, it was by someone over 60 and the car was sitting still or parked....It's a GEEZER MAGNET! Now since the average person can't seem to drive or hit anything they aim at...maybe I should go ahead and paint targets all over the car, because if they are TRYING to hit it, they will miss every time. Perhaps I should join a volunteer fire department, then I could mount red lights all over the car and add a siren...maybe it would be more visible then.... One more thing...if it takes you more than 3 seconds to make a decision at a stop sign..it becomes my turn, you lost yours. When you drive up to a parking kiosk with a 2 foot by 3 foot $5 sign on the front and ask "how much is it to park?" it will cost you $10

the 1100 K-C motor is 0.4-0.5mm point gap...0.8mm plug gap.....5* ATDC @650 rpm....intake valve 0.08mm, exhaust valve 0.18mm...from the 1968 owners manual.

Crappers! it's a world wide epidemic! I've just noticed mine doing the same thing here in the last few days...70-80 cold..practically nothing at idle warm...Castrol20-50.... I can't remember for sure now but it seems like it used to be at least 20 or so at idle...I just looked down the other day as I was parking and it was way down, like 5, oil level was good but I changed it anyway...still low pressure, stays up ok while driving, but this pump has got lots and lots of miles on it, thought maybe that was it.

Now I didn't say I out ran them...I out drove them....they were tryin every trick in the book to block me in, pit me, I kept findin holes in their setups...I guess part of the deal is not in "making the car handle" but learning to handle the car you have.I think everyone should take whatever they drive, out to a big empty parking lot a few times, when it's dry, when it's wet, and icy if you ever get ice...then see what happens when you slam on the brakes, or have to turn fast or whatever, take it to the point of losing grip in a turn, so you learn how to correct it (gawd I hate when they put in the paper that someone"over-corrected" when they went off the road, if they did anything correct, they would not have crashed)..this Corolla for instance, in the iciest ice covered lot, no matter how fast I got up to, would not do a 360( if i don't help it)...it spins 180 and goes backward (just throwing the wheel and hitting the brakes) .just spend a little time learning how it reacts before you have to react to some idiot on the road. Gee, sorry to run on like that but the car has just been fun as hell for the past 25 years. And I'm reading up on all this stuff again cuz right now it's ridin like a rock and time for things to change. Trying to figure out how to get new bushings in the original steering box, they look like brass and nobody has anything like it, I can get bigger ones and maybe have them turned and bored, and I think the last lil ol lady who hit it has tweaked the frame a bit where the top of the strut is...not really visible but the tire is wearing like the camber is off on that side and it pulls on every bump and dip in the road.

First place I look is to make sure the wire hasn't pulled loose...then all that other stuff they're tellin you..;)

I'm not sure about yours..I just did this on mine...it's a 3K with the most ancient dual horn distributor with two vacuum ports, one for each horn. I have 3 available outlets, two from the plate under the carb and one from the carb itself. Normally I use the rear plate outlet to the rear horn and the one from the carb to the front horn..give it gas, it sucks in and advances the timing. (after returning the engine to all stock except for a .20 bore it was pretty sluggish even timed perfectly), but when I put the front horn on the front plate outlet it sucks in all the time keeping it advanced. I unscrewed the idle adjustment all the way and it won't idle hardly below 1200 or so, but it starts better and easier, it runs better down the road. I may try putting it back and just twisting the dizzy a little forward of normal, just shy of clatter and see what happens then......of course the gas is getting crappier and crappier around here...this thing was born to burn rice, not corn!

the most obvious would be after you tighten everything down and then can't turn the crank. I didn't see any in the pics but mine have marks stamped in the sides across both halves that line up when the correct halves are together. A different mark on each set, like the "D" in the top pic and numbered 1,2,3,4. on the bottom, so someone probably used whatever they had but would have had to bore them....and did not mark them. It's gonna be a real b**** to sort out.

I got one of those too long cables once...find a small piece of some kind of metal tubing about the same size as the end of the sheath so it can butt against it, and use it for a spacer (cut to length) at the bottom end where it goes through the block. It has to be about the size of the hole through the block because you have to thread the tranny end of the cable through it. Put it on the block side to take up the slack, when the cable is adjusted it will hold it in place ( leave a bit of adjusting room for your clip at the top end) and you can get all your pedal back. I've been making my own cables since then.